Bob_The_Normal

I'm going to copy-paste what happened last night.

If you don't feel like reading much, here's the short:

Car starts and dies immediately. Idled fine yesterday, no vaccum leaks. Throws code 2, 9, 17. 2 and 17 are new... they are CAS NE sensor and O2 sensor. (so you don't have to look them up)

So I'm going to pull apart the CAS, what am I looking for? (I'll check the Haynes manual)

The O2 sensor doesn't bother me much, I have an idea what went wrong there (I crappily soldered the wire together as a temp-fix, probably broke... gotta get to the junkyard and cut that plug off a harness)

There are a few other things but no way to summarize them really...



Here is the story:

So I finished putting an engine into my 2nd gen (s5) n/a... a used block that I put all my parts on... but it came with its own water pump and OMP both looking in good condition. Well, I got it running today, had a little problem with idle at first... it wouldn't idle on its own, it would bog and die... kept thinking vacuum, couldn't find it so I decided to check the timing (I got it to idle rough with major adjustments on the throttle body) and found it was like.. 5-10 degrees advanced (yeah whoops.) so I restabbed the CAS and got it dead on. So then it idled great, no problems at all... really steady and solid. =)

But just sitting in the driveway, I revved up to test a few times.. found some coolant leaks thats way (^_^) tightened those up... soon as I was sure they were all gone and the coolant was topped off. I noticed something strange though... a rattling-ish noise and popping, like backfiring but very small, not like a real backfire. I took it as either running rich or the exhaust was rattling.

I secured the bolts on the exhaust (which is a DP, gutted pre-cat and normal stock cat... which is unknown in condition) and the rattle seemed less so I guess that was part of it... but I could still hear the popping... like it was running too rich or something and gave me the impression every time it would stall out.. but when it got down to ~1k it wouldn't stall or anything, just idle fine.

I figured probably nothing, I'd check it out later.

Decided to take it out for a test drive.

Take off, and realize half way leaving my house that there is water running across the road from my house (long story... road is sort of flooded, but you can drive through it...) so I was like, damn... but I went anyway, made it through fine... but water definately splashed up everywhere.

As I come out of it, I hear this NASTY "tick tick tick tick" sound coming from the tranny (sort of open, I don't have a shift boot on). The engine is idling fine on it's own and is running great, but the tranny makes this noise every time I ACCELERATE. If I hold a high RPM, or hold a low RPM, doesn't matter... no sound. But when I put the car under load to accelerate it seemed to make it.

Couldn't figure it out but I'm half way out now, have to drive out and around to go back... so I'm driving it, still really strong and idles perfect... 6 puck clutch grabbing like a freakin demon.

Shortly afterwards the clicking stops altogether, no idea why... just up and stops happening.

So I keep driving around town, can't think of any reason not to. Just generally putting some time on the car so any potential problems don't come up on a night when I don't expect them.

Everything seems great... then after a while of no stop lights driving at around 3.5k I have to stop... start to stop and the low coolant buzzer comes on, then turns off... come to a stop and the car stalls out... just drops right off.

Start it up, stalls, start it up, stalls, start it up and give it gas and keep it above 2k... fine. (And no smoke out the back btw) But if I let it go below 1k and the gas won't even save it.


So here is my current problem, I came home with it like that.

I get codes 2 and 17... CAS and O2 sensor.

Why the heck would my CAS just stop working? =/ What is wrong with the O2 sensor and why didn't it come up before?

I found my intake partially coming off (at the throttle body) I guess one of the bolts un-screwed itself...

So I'll go out in the morning and try to figure this out... =(

--Gary

C-Murder

Just solder the wire on better, probably broke off when you went through the puddle. Maybe the CAS bolt was loose and it moved again?

Bob_The_Normal

This is my problem, I come inside and post, go outside and work on the car while waiting for responses... and fix all the problems... yet if I DON'T come inside and post I'd never solve the problems for some reason.. lol... hate how that works!

I'll make a new post on my current situation 'cause it's fairly different now.

--Gary

Bob_The_Normal

Okay, to fix this problem I did a couple things...

First I checked the CAS, restabbed, didn't work.. cleared engine codes, don't get 2 OR 17 anymore... even after trying to start the car.

The car will start and then just stumble and fail before it even gets over 1k rpms.

I CHANGED the CAS (yes.. I had another one laying around... haha) and stabbed it correctly (I took the top off and watched the gears. ;P). Still wouldn't start.

I looked around and around for vaccum leaks in the hoses... decided I would check the throttle-body -> intake neck again (I finger tightened the nuts because they came lose, tried and it didn't fix it) so this time I used a ratchet and tightened them down REALLY WELL. Moved around some wires looking for what else could cause it... tightened the heater-core coolant hose because it was making a little squeeking (god damn that heater-core connection is horrible... just horrible) then went and tried it.

Started on the first try, reved right up to 2.5k and then back down and stalled. But that was a major improvement!

So I started again, kept the revs up for a little while... then after about 20-30 seconds I got it idling on its own roughly... went and grabbed my timing gun, hooked up... fixed the timing and BAM perfect idle.

=)

--Gary