I am installing my clutch tomorrow, realized that this is the first clutch I have done into a turbo model. I have done several to 6 port setups but this is my first time having to deal with the downpipe.

I know I have to drop the exhaust down, but does this mean at the hotside of the turbo? or can I just pull the exhaust loose before the cat and still be able to remove the transmission??

I sprayed every bolt down with PB tonight in hopes to make sure that they all come loose easily tomorrow. Basically let me know where I can drop the exhaust from to gain the needed clearance.. Also after draining the transmission fluid I noticed that it wasn't gear oil at all but actually ATF.. Is this common practice? I always use gear oil.. On second thought I wonder if it is Lucas in there.. that is red right?

Anyway any help or tips would be greatly appreciated. I will take pictures of the job and post up tips while I complete the task.

 

I drop the downpipe and cat.

 

You only made this post so you could post pics of your car

 

I don't even mess with the exhaust. Drop driveshaft, remove slave cylinder and top tranny bolts, starter and bottom tranny bolts and crossmember and drop.

Forgot I have a single exhaust though. woops.

 

So... How do you guys get to the third downpipe retaining nut? Is it a weird combo of extensions or what??

 

as for that third nut, tiny hands FTW, i used a 3/8 drive wrench and a 14mm socket, got under the car and weged my hand up there with the wrench facing upwards and somehow managed to break it loose by pulling down. believe i cut my finger in the process lol

 

That is what I was worried about, I have above average sized hands... Damn my kids are too little to start shoving them under a car...

 

remove the throtle cable bracket and anything else that would prevent the engine tilting. i learned this the hard way.

 

Good one.. Keep these coming...

 

If the oil was red, its probably ATF. Lucas is available in red, but that is their ATF additive........the real snake oil, stringy, thick mollasses is coloured like typical gear oil.

My tip is fill the tranny before you re-install it. However this is only actually possible or feasible if you have an extra speedo gear and an extra driveshaft yoke laying around (i grab them off core j-spec's......) because filling the trans with fluid while its in the car requires paitence and a turkey bastor, or paitence and some ingenuity with compressed air.

Really though its pretty straight forward.

Oh, one tip - take the slave off VERY CAREFULLY. Hold the pin or actuator against the slave body when lifting it off the trans and using some masking tape secure the actuator in the slave body as far as it allows. If you do this properly you won't need to bleed it upon re-installation.............just make sure you **DO NOT** accidentally touch the clutch pedal while doing something inside the car.

 

I've never filled a T2 transmission, but if the fill plug is anywhere near the N/A one (I know hte T2's have an extra plug)...the easiest way I found to do it was run 3 or 4 feet of clear plastic tubing up the transmission tunnel into the engine bay and fill with a funnel from that side, while your buddy holds the hose into the transmission and checks the level periodically.

 

The ATF could be the reason for the slipping. A new clutch will always help out though.

 

Yeah, it needed a throwout bearing anyway.

Update: I got pretty far this evening, I only worked for about 2 hours. Removed the exhaust, driveshaft, heatshield, slave, all transmission bolts, starter, shifter, wiring to transmission, and the speedo gear.

How necessary is the removal of the downpipe? I hate to have to remove the stupid turbo heatshields to get to the bolts if I dont really have to..

The transmission was overfilled for sure, I called the previous owner and asked him about the fluid, he said that when the clutch started slipping he thought it was the tranny and put in the lucas stop slip in there (what a dufous)

Thanks fellas.

 

my racing beat downpipe was a close call, we started lowering the tranny and didn't want to risk anything so we decided to take it off. better safe then sorry

 

i remove the whole exhaust system, just unbolt the dp and unhookall the orings.
Unbolt the tranny bolts, and unbolt the driveshaft, then teh clutch slave cyliner.. I like moving everything out of the way, it makes it easier to work on u know.. Its ez.. then just pry the tranny out and bench press it to ur side, its not that heavy. change the clucth wallaa

 

lol drain that tranny.. just take off the heatshields, you dont really need them.. I took mine off, so its easier to work on my car..and daily drove it for 2 years. it just clears up space and makes it simpleer

 

Myfriends told me you can pour the tranny fluid from the shifter. Im not sure if its true?

 

The tranny shifter housing (?) is seperate from the tranny. So if you fill it from the tranny, its prolly going to leak out the side, or just pool up and you car is going to smell like gear oil.

 

No.

 

On a Nissan that is possible. You have to pour the molassis through a tiny tube to the inspection hole and let gravity...very slowly... run its course. Of course you can pour some into the shifter hole. It will act as lube for the shifter and fork itself. I did and it feels smoother to move around.

 

I used a spare coolant overflow tube and a small oil funnel BTW.

 

On the FC TII transmission the shifter case is seperate from the transmission case. You can fill the shifter case (you SHOULD) but it will not fill the transmission up. That must be done through the holes on the side.

 

Uggg.. My hands are way to big to get the DP off... I can't get all the covers off.. DAMNIT.

 

Thats exactly what I meant.

 

Use extensions on the bolts and hammer a sturdy flat head between the flanges and pry til it falls off the bolts.