87 t2 engine in an 87 t2 chassis, out of an 87 NA chassis. drivers side harness is NA, engine side is t2

Been through a dozen wont start threads and cant find whats the issue. Let me give yall some background.

Bought a shell, bare shell. Installed internal (driver side) wiring harness from running car. The running engine was on an s4 na trans so i put on an s4 turbo flywheel for the new s4 turbo tranny. Installed said items into vehicle. moved over engine harness and rtek ecu. Now the car wont start. Nothing else has changed during the swap. I have fuel (it reaks), i have spark (tested at multiple locations in engine bay). the CAS was never removed until this issue started so ill recheck that its stabbed properly tomorrow.

I pull started the car tonight and it ran extremely rough/hard. idled at 3k and if i reved it, it would then stay where i reved it. (going to check throttle cable tomorrow as well). In the past the engine would run a little rough after starting th en smoothe out, this stays rough.

Pulled off both rails, ziptied injectors to the rails and tested for leaks. @35psi none of the injectors leak. both primaries spray when triggered by spinning the cas.

Last (and maybe related) after pull starting the car when i turned the ignition off the car stayed running. Ill be back out running through stuff tomorrow but any suggestions you guys can give me or pic requests would be great.

 

Having the two wire plug on the back of the alternator plugged in upside down would cause this same symptom, just a thought. When looking at this plug the B/W wire should be on top of the W/B wire.

Same thing would occur if the Main relay were sticking in the closed contact position.

 

ok that makes sense. when i pulled the wiper motor/alternator harness out of the other car (they were seperated since i had a microtech in it for a brief while) the wires broke on the alternator line and i may have crossed them when re splicing

 

you running an e fan? i had an issue with mine. when turned off the car would continue to run for a few moments till the fan lost momentom and stopped.

when you say driver side harness youre referring to the one that the starter, cas, alt, oil pressure sending unit plugs into right?

 

no E fan currently (wanted to get it running before adding stuff). And yes, i know its called the engine harness (where as the passenger side with the injectors etc is the emissions harness).

 

Did you use the NA emission harness?

 

no. turbo EM harness. The exact setup ran in the prior car, i just swapped it over. So its either a timing issue or a harness i forgot to connect somewhere

 

If you mate the turbo emission harness to the NA front harness there is a alteration that needs to be made at connector FEM-01 which deals w/the Boost sensor. Did you do this? If not then the Boost sensor is not wired up properly. Read through the following link to see if it applies to your situation. Pay attention to post #3.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...sensor+hailers

 

id bet thats been done as the car ran well prior to the swap. ill still look into it but the boost sensor isnt used on startup.. back to original problem

 

I was appying it to the result of how your car ran after it was pull started as opposed to it being the root cause of the starting problem, but if its been taken care of then its been taken care of.

 

ugh i hate the search fu nction tonight. anyone have a link to hailers write up on the rewiring for the boost sensor

 

With key to on, the Brown/Red wire at the Boost sensor should read 2.3 to 2.7 volts while plugged in. If it reads battery voltage, then a change needs to be made, otherwise it's okay.

 

It has started twice but ran like it was on 1 rotor. Now it wont even do that. Heres 2 vids showing spark and injectors clicking

 

Update:
I can get it to start with a fuel cutoff switch but it runs like this:

 

AFM plugged in? Just had to ask.

 

yupper. but ill check the wiring to it

 

189 views and nobody else has ever had a car idle like this?

 

The problem is fixed. resetted ecu and got timing set on -5.