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keep blowing 80 amp main breaker

Old 06-01-10, 10:04 PM
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TX keep blowing 80 amp main breaker

Just bought this car is 1987 fc . On fuse panel under hood there is a 80 amp main breaker, i have blown 3 now, i puuled all the plugs off of the box and it still does the same thing, the negative looks like it is direct from battery, does the positive go through some kind of a current reducer, not very good electrically here, not sure where the positive comes from, but works like home breaker box?
Old 06-01-10, 10:14 PM
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MAIN FUSE is tied/spliced to the large output cable from the alternator. Try disconnecting the large output cable on the alt and see how things go.

There's another wire spliced to that circuit. It goes to feed the ignition switch. Pure black wire. That wire also has a single wire connector just below the engine bay fuse box. See if that connector/wire is toast or not.
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Old 06-02-10, 07:30 AM
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That wire appears to be in good shape, someone had cut the battery cables ends off right at the battery so i had to black tape new ends on but wouldn`t think that would be causing this problem. do i need to follow that wire all the way to the ignition relay?
Old 06-02-10, 07:47 AM
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you think it could be a bad alternator or wrong kind? will try pulling the wire off it this afternoon
Old 06-02-10, 09:49 AM
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You sure you put the batt cables on the right terminals on the battery?
Old 06-02-10, 03:28 PM
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was assuming that the yellow and black wire was the positive, but maybe that is wrong, could follow it to the starter maybe?
Old 06-02-10, 03:32 PM
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Yellow/Black is the ground wire. If you are ever not 100% sure on something like that, grab a meter and set it to continuity mode (it will have a little speaker indicating it will beep if a circuit is complete) and touch the battery cable with one side and a nice bare metal piece of chassis (like a nut). It should beep, indicating continuity.
Old 06-02-10, 03:50 PM
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someone had cut the terminal ends off the battery cables, so there isn`t a red or black end at the battery, and should of made sure yellow black was positive and i was getting a door open light on the display, i will see if my meter as a audible mode. Guess that would blow the fuse if backwards
Old 06-02-10, 04:12 PM
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hooked the meter up and got audible tone on the yellow black with i touch other and to a ground on the frame, so that is my ground looks like, means the other car i looked it is wrong too, gonne change fuse and hope i didn`t mess anything up, thanks so much
Old 06-02-10, 04:55 PM
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ureka she runs, after 3 years on blocks in a junk yard on blocks, still have a issue with no oil pressure on guage, and a warning horn, probally one and the same, any idea what could be bugging the gauge, car was running fine, needs some plugs and wires probally, had to idle it up a little
Old 06-03-10, 08:50 AM
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Awesome! Nice to hear another 7 is alive!

For the oil pressure, look under the oil filter beside the spark plug, there will be a copper-looking mushroom, that's your oil pressure sender. That is connected to your wiring harness by a slip-on connector that slides on the round metal tab at the top of the mushroom. Reconnect that and I'll bet your oil pressure gauge works.

The warning horn can be caused by two things: oil or coolant.

There's two connectors that run into the oil pan, one for level and one for temperature. Look around under the spark plugs on the oil pan and look for disconnected sensors in the pan. If there aren't any, double check your oil level and add some if necessary.

It could also be the low-coolant level buzzer, on the top of your radiator, to the left of the fill cap if you're standing in front of the car, there's a sensor with a single wire "bullet-style" connector. If that's not connected, there's your problem.
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