Just took my rebuild on it's first cruise
11-26-11, 06:29 PM
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Just took my rebuild on it's first cruise
It was really nice in low rpms but once it got to about 3500 - 4000 rpms it just lagged like ****. Idk if that's just because the compression isnt fully buildt up or wat. Also where should my temp gauge be at normally I'm thinking mine was kinda high it was like 3/4 of a way to the red marks and I mean I have a big fluidline alum. Radiator and efan any tips on keeping my car cooler and is that even a safe temp it was at ?
11-26-11, 06:39 PM
#2
You are allowed ONE overheat. Some say no more than 1/3 on the gauge and nothing higher. However, I disagree. Mine has hit 1/2 (around 200 IIRC on my computer), which is perfectly acceptable. 3/4 though is pushing it. I would make sure you have a mazda t'stat and the coolant was filled properly. The STOCK system is very capable of keeping the car running fine as long as all the components are in working order.
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11-26-11, 06:52 PM
#8
"3/4 of a way to the red marks" means nothing to us or you.
The stock radiator will cool my NA just fine with NO FAN AT ALL below @70° and only requires fan activation in traffic above that temp. Basically, you never require fannage on the highway, no matter the ambient.
Your Fluidyne should be more than adequate, so I'm thinking something else must be wrong.
11-26-11, 07:07 PM
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Well I just replaced the thermostat that's new its a duralast from autozone but who knows how good that is also new radiator cap because the old one was tore up .
11-26-11, 07:12 PM
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Hey guys! I just got online, and saw this thread! What a coincedence!!!!! I just got my RX-7 running and took her for her first spin since her rebuild. I just finished putting my tools away and wanted to write about it on here! I took her about 5 miles... Oh yea!!! I'm so Happy!!! She ran good. Not rough and with a smooth idle. At first she would only stay idling at 1500 rpm. Then after all the smoke finally cleared, her idle went down and I thought it was gonna die, but she didn't, held idle at about 700-800 rpm. She did not overheat. I also ran the heater just to reassure myself things are flowing the way they should be. It never got over halfway on the temp gauge. Heater worked great. Then tried A/C,, It got cold, but not what I would call A/C cold. I'll have to look at that later. There is a consistent beeping noise inside the car. Even while I was driving, but no idiot lights came on. I was driving with the seatbelt off, so I buckled up, but the beeps stayed on. I look more into her later, just couldn't drive her far, because she doesn't have current registration. Whhoooppppiiiieeee!!! FINALLY!!!!!
11-26-11, 07:23 PM
#15
Who built your engine? Did it get pressure tested before installation?
If not, you can rent one of these usually from parts stores.
And of course, OEM Mazda thermostat, under tray, and some kind of fan at least. I have run an electric fan before and had no issues. Also, make sure you've gotten all the air bubbles out of the engine before starting it. I like to use this funnel because it fits right in to the fill neck and seals around it, so you can fill the funnel ALL the way up and see the bubbles come out. Once you think you have it completely bled down, grab the lower radiator hose and squeeze like when a nurse takes your blood pressure. Slowly squeeze, slowly release. Then, make sure your overflow tank has coolant in it at the proper level.
Edit: I guess I took too long to type all that
Mazda sells OEM mazda t'stats. Only Mazda... or Mazdatrix.
If not, you can rent one of these usually from parts stores.
And of course, OEM Mazda thermostat, under tray, and some kind of fan at least. I have run an electric fan before and had no issues. Also, make sure you've gotten all the air bubbles out of the engine before starting it. I like to use this funnel because it fits right in to the fill neck and seals around it, so you can fill the funnel ALL the way up and see the bubbles come out. Once you think you have it completely bled down, grab the lower radiator hose and squeeze like when a nurse takes your blood pressure. Slowly squeeze, slowly release. Then, make sure your overflow tank has coolant in it at the proper level.
Edit: I guess I took too long to type all that
Mazda sells OEM mazda t'stats. Only Mazda... or Mazdatrix.
11-26-11, 08:20 PM
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Well I just added more coolant and squeezed the radiator hose to get it all around and I just took it around the naborhood a couple times and it was bouncing a lil under half way and half way on my temp gauge and then left it running for about 20-30 minutes. So seems that's all good now. Got any suggestions on how to fix my lagging problems I was messin with the tps and the lowest volts I could get it was at 1.34 volts because shouldnt that be at 1 volt or is that close enough.
11-26-11, 08:38 PM
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Fuel filter brand new. I set the timing just by aligning the marks but I don't have a timing light yet so don't kno if it is right on time also wat are ways to set the idle I just messed with the throttle cable and got it idling at 1300-1500 rpms. Also it's pulling good vacuum. Grounds also all cleaned up.
11-26-11, 08:46 PM
#20
is the throttle cable completely slack? well, temporarily you'll need to get it to idle below 1000RPMs to properly set the timing.
if the throttle cable is slack then either the throttle set screw was messed with, adjust the idle with the BAC valve screw or the thermowax is hung partially open which you can manually close it by screwing down on the screw at the back of the throttle body, middle, sticking straight up with a spring under the phillips head. crank that screw down.
if the throttle cable is slack then either the throttle set screw was messed with, adjust the idle with the BAC valve screw or the thermowax is hung partially open which you can manually close it by screwing down on the screw at the back of the throttle body, middle, sticking straight up with a spring under the phillips head. crank that screw down.
11-26-11, 08:50 PM
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Well I don't have a bac it's blocked off and the throttle cable is almost all the way slacked out but I'll let it all the way out and see if it will hold idle that low.
11-26-11, 09:14 PM
#23
With the car idling try pressing upwards on the throttle linkage at the front of the throttle body. If it drops the idle then you have something keeping the primary throttle plates open too much. If so then it's probably the Fast Idle mechanism is either not set correctly or malfunctioning. Do as Karack suggests and it will tell you if that were the case.
11-26-11, 09:15 PM
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I didn't I got the engine like that and the last engine didn't have one either. I also have herd it's a shitty mod but wat can I do u think a Mazda would have any still.