Just lost power
08-27-11, 05:44 PM
#1
Just lost power
well i was just cruising down the street and my stereo kinda glitched out and my wipers slammed up really hard twice then my car lost total power. Only thing i have done electrically to my car recently is i added a power block when i redid my battery relocation. (ran it threw the car with the proper gauge wire instead of underneath the car) and added a 100 amp circuit breaker by the battery. (breaker switched to off when my car died) and i installed an s5 alternater in my car at the same time. maybe i wired it wrong? but this was all over a week ago and everything has been fine since.. triple checked all fuses and all are fine. car now cranks over but breaker pops if i crank for too long. also the tac isnt jumping when turning over.. also my 'brake' light lights up in my idiot cluster now..
08-27-11, 06:09 PM
#2
The terminal on the back of the alternator which initially was connected to the B/W wire should now go to a "constant voltage" source which is different then how an S4 alternator is wired up as the S4 B/W wire would normally go to "switched power" and not constant. Did you make this change or not.
As far as the tach not moving check the Meter fuse and or the 40 amp EGI INJ fuse. If you're just looking at the fuse to see if it's good then that means nothing as a "continuity test" is the proper manner when checking the condition of a fuse.
All the idiot lights should turn on w/key to on, engine off except the brake light unless the emergency brake is engaged otherwise it should not light up. If it does then either the emergency brake is engaged or the brake master cylinder is low on brake fluid or one of the brake lights are toast as these are the three normal causes for the light to turn on.
You also want to check the Engine fuse box and make sure the wire that comes from the EGI 40 amp INJ fuse is bolted to the fuse box properly and not loose. This wire is Black/Green and runs to the Main relay. If this wire has no voltage at the fuse box or Main relay then the wire is loose or the fuse is blown or the fuse box is not properly powered by the Battery.
As far as the tach not moving check the Meter fuse and or the 40 amp EGI INJ fuse. If you're just looking at the fuse to see if it's good then that means nothing as a "continuity test" is the proper manner when checking the condition of a fuse.
All the idiot lights should turn on w/key to on, engine off except the brake light unless the emergency brake is engaged otherwise it should not light up. If it does then either the emergency brake is engaged or the brake master cylinder is low on brake fluid or one of the brake lights are toast as these are the three normal causes for the light to turn on.
You also want to check the Engine fuse box and make sure the wire that comes from the EGI 40 amp INJ fuse is bolted to the fuse box properly and not loose. This wire is Black/Green and runs to the Main relay. If this wire has no voltage at the fuse box or Main relay then the wire is loose or the fuse is blown or the fuse box is not properly powered by the Battery.
08-28-11, 01:34 PM
#3
well when i did the alt swap i kept b as b, L to L and turned r into s?
when under my dash it smells like burnt wiring and i know that my "room" fuse blows immediately. what does the room fuse control? gonnna keep inspecting and testing some things..
when under my dash it smells like burnt wiring and i know that my "room" fuse blows immediately. what does the room fuse control? gonnna keep inspecting and testing some things..
08-28-11, 02:17 PM
#5
thanks satch thats good to know..
however i just put in an 86-87 ecu into my car in it had spark and fired right up.. BUT whats weird is there is no room fuses installed which that thread said powerd the ecu.. also i started it with the alternater unplugged and everything was bright as **** and my dash voltage was topped out at 16v so i killed it immediately... im glad it started but now whats the deal? gonna swap back stock s4 alt and see what happens..
however i just put in an 86-87 ecu into my car in it had spark and fired right up.. BUT whats weird is there is no room fuses installed which that thread said powerd the ecu.. also i started it with the alternater unplugged and everything was bright as **** and my dash voltage was topped out at 16v so i killed it immediately... im glad it started but now whats the deal? gonna swap back stock s4 alt and see what happens..
08-28-11, 02:32 PM
#7
thanks satch thats good to know..
however i just put in an 86-87 ecu into my car in it had spark and fired right up.. BUT whats weird is there is no room fuses installed which that thread said powerd the ecu.. also i started it with the alternater unplugged and everything was bright as **** and my dash voltage was topped out at 16v so i killed it immediately... im glad it started but now whats the deal? gonna swap back stock s4 alt and see what happens..
however i just put in an 86-87 ecu into my car in it had spark and fired right up.. BUT whats weird is there is no room fuses installed which that thread said powerd the ecu.. also i started it with the alternater unplugged and everything was bright as **** and my dash voltage was topped out at 16v so i killed it immediately... im glad it started but now whats the deal? gonna swap back stock s4 alt and see what happens..
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08-28-11, 02:38 PM
#8
sooo "brake" light was on cuz left brake light bulbs exploded...no biggy. BONUS! interior dome light decided to work again! got the s4 alt back in and all seems well... will i incounter any issues with running this 86-87 n/a ecu in my 88 vert?
also i would like to run my s5 tii alt so if someone could link me to a "s5 alt in s4 car rewiring for dumbies" thread that would be appreciated.
also i would like to run my s5 tii alt so if someone could link me to a "s5 alt in s4 car rewiring for dumbies" thread that would be appreciated.
08-28-11, 03:54 PM
#10
soooo.. dome light stopped working and room fuse blew again. are there any typical areas to check to see why this is doing this? and is anything powered by the room fuse ran threw the factory stereo wiring? my harness and all that wiring was hacked so when i did my stereo i just made new power, switched power, ground and all new speaker wires and left the stock wiring a mess..
08-28-11, 04:16 PM
#11
The wire from the Room fuse is Blue/Red so if this wire were hacked/cut as it went to the radio then that wire needs to be taped/capped off to prevent it from touching ground otherwise it would blow the fuse. This Blue/Red wire also travels to the clock in the idiot light module to provide it with light and if you have the factory alarm it runs to that unit as well in addition to the alarm bulb in the console. It also runs to the little bulb by the ignition switch and the courtesy lights, overhead lights and the rear cargo light and finally to the CPU/warning unit.
08-28-11, 05:19 PM
#12
alright, i will go trace that wire all around then. i noticed when i was pulling on all the spare hacked wires behind the stereo area sometimes the "door" light in the idiot cluster would come on randomly and my dinger would sometimes randomly ding but then it stops dinging in a very unhealthy sounding way like the little dinger unit itself is dying
09-01-11, 01:27 AM
#18
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Sounds like you have a total mess going on there.
Time to sit down with the multi-meter, a wiring diagram, and a whole bunch of patience.
My bet is that you have burnt some insulation some place, and are getting random shorts.
The wiring in FC's is getting old, might be time to R&R a few of the looms...
Time to sit down with the multi-meter, a wiring diagram, and a whole bunch of patience.
My bet is that you have burnt some insulation some place, and are getting random shorts.
The wiring in FC's is getting old, might be time to R&R a few of the looms...
09-01-11, 03:03 AM
#21
well i got impatient, and we are both right...kinda.. i swear that fuse was good last time i looked at it but just now i saw that it was blown, replaced it, and then it blew again when i turned my key forward... gonna trace wires tomorrow...yay.
09-02-11, 09:34 PM
#22
well, i reached wayyy back and unplugged my air controls turned key forward, fuse blew. then unplugged my top/windshield wiper switch, blew again.. so hopefully those things are still good, however this still doesnt fix my issue, where are some good places to check? any relays or anything? i really dont want to pull my dash apart to find my issue
09-02-11, 11:45 PM
#23
The Black/Yellow wire is powered by the Soft Top fuse and it runs to the blower fan under the dash on the passenger side and the plug has the B/Y wire in it.
The B/Y wire also runs to three items related to the convertible top. One of the B/Y wires runs to the motors and can be found by the driver kickwall and mates the Front and Rear harness (FR-02). It has 17 or so wires and the B/Y wire is sandwiched in between a Red/White wire and a Blue/White wire.
The B/Y wire also splits and runs to the convertible check connector in front of the passenger headlight. The B/Y wire also runs to FC-01 (Front and Cluster) which then leads to CR-02 which plus into the switch on the side of the dash that features the conv. switch which I think you already dealt with.
You could disconnect the fan plug and see what happens in addition to the other plugs in a systematic way to see if it makes a difference but if that the fuse blows immediately then the B/Y is likely grounding out and you'll have to ohm the relevant wires to find the high resistance/grounded wire.
The B/Y wire also runs to three items related to the convertible top. One of the B/Y wires runs to the motors and can be found by the driver kickwall and mates the Front and Rear harness (FR-02). It has 17 or so wires and the B/Y wire is sandwiched in between a Red/White wire and a Blue/White wire.
The B/Y wire also splits and runs to the convertible check connector in front of the passenger headlight. The B/Y wire also runs to FC-01 (Front and Cluster) which then leads to CR-02 which plus into the switch on the side of the dash that features the conv. switch which I think you already dealt with.
You could disconnect the fan plug and see what happens in addition to the other plugs in a systematic way to see if it makes a difference but if that the fuse blows immediately then the B/Y is likely grounding out and you'll have to ohm the relevant wires to find the high resistance/grounded wire.
09-03-11, 11:35 PM
#24
hey thanks a million for the help satch.. fuse stopped blowing when i unplugged the passenger side vert motor.. trace all the wiring for it and all is fine. took the motor apart and i dont see anything wrong with it but it does smell like melting electronics. i guess ill be looking into buying a new one =/ but hey at least i found the issue i just hope my car doesnt freak out again cuz i cant afford to be buying vert motors all the time...
09-16-11, 02:44 AM
#25
havent had internet lately but as an update, got my new vert top motor and all is well. Also took that s5 alternator to autozone and a kragen to have it tested and at both places there machines shut off within a second of the test beginning. they said the alternator is putting out wayyyyyy too much juice. is the reason the alt. went bad FOR SURE not the way i wired it up cuz i want to put a larger alternator in my car again. FD or taurus alt.
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