2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Just got my turbo II started

Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:37 PM
  #26  
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yep, i wouldn't say that is horrible but obviously the battery has been drained a bit of power as it's below the static level of 12.6v minimum(at the battery). you'll need a good powerful battery for the issue you're describing to get the cranking RPMs back up in hopes of overcoming the flooding situation. also try holding the throttle wide open, it allows more air to get to the engine to compensate for low compression from the rebuild.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:56 PM
  #27  
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Ya a bigger battery is wat I was thinking I got a new one today from my neighbors shop and I asked the guy how many cca it had he told me 690 and when I got it brought to me I was actually 550 cca and 690 ca do u think this battery is to small
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:58 PM
  #28  
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borderline. it's about the minimum size for a car without any starting issues.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 10:07 PM
  #29  
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So u think I should get a bigger battery and if so u kno any piticular size and brands because so far I've had bad luck with battery's
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 10:18 PM
  #30  
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biggest battery that will fit the tray with the largest amount of cold cranking amps you can find.

i headbang when i see people using those garden tractor batteries... 10 seconds and the battery is dead. for 15lbs weight savings? pass on the cheeseburgers.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 10:21 PM
  #31  
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Kk thanks man i was thinking about that the hole time just needed a 2nd opponion on it
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 10:39 PM
  #32  
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Also could low compression cause a lower vacuum because the few times it ran. It was only pulling about 16 to 17 in.hg. Shouldn't it be around 20 to 25 in.hg.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 11:08 PM
  #33  
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a rotary will never see those vacuum levels unless you're decelerating in gear off throttle. idling 16-17 is perfectly fine.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 01:03 AM
  #34  
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kk cool thanks for the info man
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 01:06 PM
  #35  
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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/VdPRI_4qcyk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

This is a lil video when i got it started yesterday my ipod ran out of video space so its kinda short but it ran like that for about a good 8 minutes then it died. I shouldve gave it gas to keep it goin but i was getting something from my tool box. Then after that she wouldnt start agin even after it cooled down a couple hours later. But when i started it in that video it fired right up first start of the day. I dont get it.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 02:07 PM
  #36  
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When you can get the car running for a while you might want to focus on the alternator output to see if it is putting out enough voltage to keep the car running properly. If it doesn't then the car will eventually die. Not saying this is your problem, but it is a possibility especially if your voltage gauge is accurate for it appears to be fairly low as it needs to be about 14 to 14.4 volts while idling and no load draining components on such as fan, A/C, lights etc. The most accurate place to measure the alternator output is at the Black cable bolted to the alternator.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 04:19 PM
  #37  
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So I got the car to start agin today first crank it backfired then I tired to crank it agin it fired right up. So I let it run a bit and i took a measurement at the alternator and it's getting 14.4 v so that's all good. Then I turned it off after it warmed up to try to start it agin and then got nothin it's pretty strange .
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 04:59 PM
  #38  
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You might be suffereing from a flooding issue among other things.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #39  
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put a vice grip on the fuel line off the fuel filter to the engine and try to start it.
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