2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Just got my turbo II started

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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 11:33 AM
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Just got my turbo II started

Now it's over heating and idling really high about 4000 rpm. Also my radiator fan never turned on so idk if it's a bad theoremstat or it's just not getting cooled because of the e fan. Any pointers?
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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Check for a twisted/binded or improperly set throttle/cruise control cable.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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alright it was because of the throtal cable got that figured out. also do u kno why its such a pain in the *** to get started ive only had it running twice today. but both times it was running so good but its so hard to start i have all the emmisions removed i kno that might be a problem but i would think it should still fire right up.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 04:29 PM
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Did you remove the BAC?

Is this a rebuild? (Recently been rebuilt?)
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 04:51 PM
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i bought the car blown up bought a new motor and had it street ported and rebuild with the atkins kit and when i got it all the emmissions had block off plates already
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 06:56 PM
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The BAC is not part of the emissions system, but rather a component of the idle system. Do you have the BAC installed on the car? The BAC opens up fully when the engine is started which helps to facilitate the starting process. The hard starting could be fuel related such as not enough fuel upon startup, which could be a function of the Water Thermosensor or the ECU not receiving the start signal. On a cold engine the ECU pin related to the Thermosensor should be about 2 to 3 volts. The pin relatd to the start signal should be close to 10 volts or so w/key to start. Lastly, a fresh rebuild will start off w/lower compression and as the engine is broken in and the seals do their job better the compression gradually increases and the car becomes easier to start.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 07:01 PM
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thanks satch ur a life saver i will take some voltage readings and figure this out hopefully. also i do not have a BAC at all, can i run with out it or should i look into getting one . Also do u kno wat color the wire is or wat pin is the start signal.

Last edited by boostkeepsmesane7; Oct 15, 2011 at 07:10 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 07:11 PM
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S4 or S5?
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 07:39 PM
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s4
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 07:45 PM
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Pin 2I for the Thermosensor and 3B is the start signal. Remember, your hard start situation could very well be a function of the fresh rebuild and nothing more. A teaspoon of 2 cycle oil in the rotor housings via the spark plug hole will help to increase the compression for a start up if need be. If your problem is rebuild related then time will take of that.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 07:47 PM
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cool thanks for info bud!
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 07:53 PM
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So I haven't been able to work on my car the past 2 weeks from when I first started it and when I went and started it today it fired right up after about 7 minutes it died and will not start agin any ideas
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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I took a voltage measurement from pin 3b and I'm only getting .0327 v wat could be giving the ecu a bad starting signal
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:18 PM
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getting that with the key in the start position? it won't give 12v unless cranking the car.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:26 PM
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Ya with key on but I thought u should have atleast 10 volts to it with key on
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:29 PM
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It'll only have voltage with the key twisted to start, not just on
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by boostkeepsmesane7
Ya with key on but I thought u should have atleast 10 volts to it with key on
And I'm getting about 8 volts to 3G while cranking it
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:31 PM
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From: davenport,ia
3b*
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:32 PM
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8 volts? put a charger on the battery...
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:36 PM
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The battery is brand new just bought it today
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:39 PM
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then check your cables, how does it sound while cranking? pin 3B should be about 11 volts while cranking with a healthy electrical/starting system.

new doesn't mean anything to me, considering it may have been cranked on for an hour now and is in a discharged state needing a recharge.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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Sometimes when I try to crank it the starter will just click and not crank but when it does crank it sounds like it wants to fire up but it dosnt have enough juice
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:50 PM
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starter click is a common issue but likely not the root cause. try measuring voltage to pin 3J while cranking. this is the ECU battery input and should give you a best case scenario for how much voltage the rest of the car is seeing while cranking. anything below 10v and i can't imagine the starter will be spinning very quickly. you need alot of juice for a fresh motor and especially for one that is borderline flooded.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:02 PM
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So I was getting a reading of 12.389v with key off at 3j and then I was getting 9 v cranking
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by boostkeepsmesane7
So I was getting a reading of 12.389v with key off at 3j and then I was getting 9 v cranking
You probably need to take Karack's advice, and recharge the battery.
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