Just got my turbo II started
10-15-11, 11:33 AM
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Just got my turbo II started
Now it's over heating and idling really high about 4000 rpm. Also my radiator fan never turned on so idk if it's a bad theoremstat or it's just not getting cooled because of the e fan. Any pointers?
10-15-11, 04:12 PM
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alright it was because of the throtal cable got that figured out. also do u kno why its such a pain in the *** to get started ive only had it running twice today. but both times it was running so good but its so hard to start i have all the emmisions removed i kno that might be a problem but i would think it should still fire right up.
10-15-11, 04:51 PM
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i bought the car blown up bought a new motor and had it street ported and rebuild with the atkins kit and when i got it all the emmissions had block off plates already
10-15-11, 06:56 PM
#6
The BAC is not part of the emissions system, but rather a component of the idle system. Do you have the BAC installed on the car? The BAC opens up fully when the engine is started which helps to facilitate the starting process. The hard starting could be fuel related such as not enough fuel upon startup, which could be a function of the Water Thermosensor or the ECU not receiving the start signal. On a cold engine the ECU pin related to the Thermosensor should be about 2 to 3 volts. The pin relatd to the start signal should be close to 10 volts or so w/key to start. Lastly, a fresh rebuild will start off w/lower compression and as the engine is broken in and the seals do their job better the compression gradually increases and the car becomes easier to start.
10-15-11, 07:01 PM
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thanks satch ur a life saver i will take some voltage readings and figure this out hopefully. also i do not have a BAC at all, can i run with out it or should i look into getting one . Also do u kno wat color the wire is or wat pin is the start signal.
Last edited by boostkeepsmesane7; 10-15-11 at 07:10 PM.
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10-15-11, 07:45 PM
#10
Pin 2I for the Thermosensor and 3B is the start signal. Remember, your hard start situation could very well be a function of the fresh rebuild and nothing more. A teaspoon of 2 cycle oil in the rotor housings via the spark plug hole will help to increase the compression for a start up if need be. If your problem is rebuild related then time will take of that.
11-05-11, 07:53 PM
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So I haven't been able to work on my car the past 2 weeks from when I first started it and when I went and started it today it fired right up after about 7 minutes it died and will not start agin any ideas
11-05-11, 08:39 PM
#21
then check your cables, how does it sound while cranking? pin 3B should be about 11 volts while cranking with a healthy electrical/starting system.
new doesn't mean anything to me, considering it may have been cranked on for an hour now and is in a discharged state needing a recharge.
new doesn't mean anything to me, considering it may have been cranked on for an hour now and is in a discharged state needing a recharge.
11-05-11, 08:47 PM
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Sometimes when I try to crank it the starter will just click and not crank but when it does crank it sounds like it wants to fire up but it dosnt have enough juice
11-05-11, 08:50 PM
#23
starter click is a common issue but likely not the root cause. try measuring voltage to pin 3J while cranking. this is the ECU battery input and should give you a best case scenario for how much voltage the rest of the car is seeing while cranking. anything below 10v and i can't imagine the starter will be spinning very quickly. you need alot of juice for a fresh motor and especially for one that is borderline flooded.