You cold get something like that made locally, but the header in that link is priced really well. Most of the other headers on the market are not sized correctly, and they are made out of mild steel or 304 stainless rather than the better 321 stainless. Ironically, the Racing Beat website has a great exhaust system guide, yet none of their headers are the correct length, lol. Anyway, I tend to prefer the long collected type for street/autocross use, while the short collected type would probably be better for endurance racing, although I guess it depends on personal preference. The Racing Beat "Road Race" exhaust has received good reviews, but I have not tried it yet.
Rotary Tech Tips: Exhaust System Configurations

Yes, most people see those crap aftermarket Honda CAIs and think that they are good. Sure, they are good for a Honda that was factory-built with a stupid restrictive intake directly over a hot engine, but what people don't realize that the small, convoluted CAI tube is a restriction. There are two factors in getting good intake air, those being temperature AND pressure. A small convoluted tube may help with the temperature, but it will ruin the pressure.

See this below link for suggested dimensions of a real CAI. The manual is out of date, but the CAI design is still valid.
http://www.nocoastmotorsports.net/Ma...ionmanual.pdf\

The OEM intake is good for about 200bhp before you would want to consider replacing it with something better. Your engine will not produce this level of power without porting, so it is not something you need to worry about any time soon. A K&N drop-in filter may yield 1-2 more peak hp, but I wouldn't bother with this until a new filter is needed. If you plan on building your own CAI soon, then you may as well just stick with cheaper paper filters for now. BTW, the paper filters do tend to filter better than the performance filters.

Most people choose between Exedy and ACT. Exedy sponsors rotary car events, and therefore their technicians are more familiar with our cars, so I would tend to go with Exedy with everything else being equal.

Aluminum flywheels are the lightest, but they wear down faster. Steel flywheels are heavier but they are much more durable. Some flywheels are made out of aluminum but have replaceable steel inserts and ring gears, so they fall in the middle between static weight and durability.

Contrary to marketing, the material and static weight isn't really what makes the difference when driving, but rather the inertia is what affects the feel of the car. For example, if a flywheel is center-weighted, it will have less inertia than one of the same static weight that is perimeter-weighted, and will therefore feel lighter when driving and spool the engine up and down faster. Low-inertia flywheels are great for most racing events, but they make street driving difficult, especially in stop-and-go traffic and when accelerating up a hill from a standing start. Basically, if you drive in San Francisco, you DO NOT want a low-inertia flywheel, lol. See the Mazdatrix notes about light flywheels.
Flywheel and Clutch Explanations

The best way to shop for flywheels is to ask your friends if you can test drive their RX-7s to see how you like various flywheel/clutch combos.

Rear Steer Eliminator Bushings FAQ / Install

 

So i guess light steel flywheels are like a happy medium of both durability an perfromance . i just sent you pm to

 

Make sure your 5 and 6 ports are functioning. Have your fuel injectors cleaned or replaced.

 

I hadn't thought about that I knew I was missing something ill go by the dealer and see how much they run them for

 

Oops, I put an extra \ in the link. Try this:
http://www.nocoastmotorsports.net/Ma...tionmanual.pdf

Yes, and they tend to have a mid-level inertia. Some people don't like flywheels with very low inertia, so the light steel flywheel is a good compromise. However, some people try the light steel flywheel and don't like it, so they go back to the high-inertia OEM flywheel. This is something that you are better off trying before you buy it.

You can mail the injectors out for cleaning and "rebuilding" if you can't find good local pricing. Don't forget to order a new upper-to-lower intake manifold gasket when servicing the primary injectors.
Injector-Rehab Fuel Injector Cleaning Services
WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services

 

Not to poop on the party, but I think you're gonna have your hands full keeping a 20 yr old daily driver reliable.

As many suggested, I'd make sure you have the basics taken care of before you start modding it.

Once you're ready I agree on what others have said about exhaust first and not to worry about CAI.

 

So here is a pic of the body I'm still cleaning out the interior right now will take pics of that when I finish making it decent somewhat

 

Yea your telling me alot of the parts Mazda doesn't make anymore which sucks so its gonna take some real digging to find certain parts

 

Just wondering if anyone knows where I can buy something like this for the FC

 

whats up evryone so I just put a battery in it i got something cheap that will start it up for testing purposes. Wasn't able to do whole alot today but ill try an work on it more next sunday since that is the only day ill probably have time to. But since this is my first mazda, and first sports car for that matter. I noticed when i started it up it the rpms stayed up(8000) for about 20 secs then suddenly drop my foot wasnt on the accelerator. So i think throttle sensor maybe malfunctioning. or just bad since its been sitting for 2 years. But im not sure ill see what happens when i come home tommorrow. and start it up again.

 

When the engine is cold, the Accelerated Warmup System (AWS) will raise the rpms to @2k for about 15 seconds. It should then taper down to @1200 rpm till the car warms up and settles into the normal 750rpm idle.

 

ok ill keep that in mind when i goto start it up tommorrow thank you

 

So what's everyone I have officially started on this project today will go up as day 1 for me. Not to happy where I got in day 1 though(only had 3 hours) but it's a start and I will take that over nothing. But I started vacuuming the interior and tearing out the old upholstery as well so here are a few pics.


























And here is a few solid photos of the engine bay