Bone stock 87 NA. Bought it running like poo. Changed mass air flow, no difference. Compression check, both rotors almost right at 85. With schrader valve in tool out, pulsed nice quick and evenly both rotors. Fuel pressure good. Fuel pump tested good at the diagnosis port. Getting good spark, one had a slightly week looking spark.
Ok so the thing doesn't run smooth. When driving it kinda runs like its running out of gas. Comes in and out of power. When coming to a stop it dies. When it DOES stay running it idles up and down and almost dies. I know it has coolant seal issues, but would that make it run like crap even with good compression? I'm stuck. Please help!

 

My vote goes to tps. Search tps adjustment on here, see if that helps. I'd explain how to do it but I've heard of three different methods.

Also I'd check for vacuum leaks. Start the car and spray starter fluid around all the vacuum lines in the engine bay, also on the mating services between the upper and lower intakes.

 

IV looked that up before and everything IV found looks different than my setup. My tps looks more like an either just open or closed kinda like on or off switch.

 

as for the coolant seal leaking. poor in a half bottle of alumiseal and run it at operating temp for a while, i've seen this **** do miracles before!

 

IV actually tried it... no luck

 

So any more ideas or something on this tps? I guess 86-88 is different from 89 and the rest of 2nd gems. Most have 2 adjustments while mine has 1?

 

Spits sputters, kinda backfires little pops. Snapped the throttle and it backfired out the intake while air filter was out.

 

Green/Red wire of the TPS nees to see 1 volt DC w/key to on and the engine as hot as it can possibly get (20 minutes of driving should do it).

 

Ok just for the heck of it sense I don't have time to fully warm it up. Checked it and it was at 1.5 volts. If I push the sensor all the way IN I can hear something clicking somewhere.

 

The TPS and the Relief and Switching solenoid are related to each other so that's where the clicks come from. The only alternative you have to not warming up the car is by pressing the rear throttle linkage as far down as it can go and then setting the TPS to 1 volt.

 

Rear throttle linkage, back of engine by firewall?

 

Yes. Talking about the throttle linkage which is affected by the Thermowax.Thermovalve (upside down screw).

 

Well I got the time to let it warm up. Adjusted it to about 1.02 volts. Still runs like crap. Seems to have helped a little. But still dies. And cut out and jerky and all.

 

Video of it warmed up. Starting it, not touching the throttle at all. Just letting it do its thing.

 

I would check for a vacuum leak.

check all vacuum lines. check Intake manifold gaskets.

 

IV checked aall the easy to get to ones. And I sprayed the crap out of everything else with water... no changes.

 

At idle. I unplugged the map sensor and sprayed starter fluid in the vacuum line. It seemed to smooth it out at idle.

 

could be fuel related. weak pump or clogged injectors. fuel filter maybe

check fuel

 

Fuel pump and pressure is all good

 

Try jumpering the fuel check connector.

 

That the one to check the fuel pump right?

 

Yes it is.

 

Ok, yeah already checked that to.

 

Next step, you can unplug the AFM w/the check connector jumpered. You can also make sure you have the plug wires running to the correct spots. After that you might want to entertain the idea of the primary injectors being problematic. Or you can unplug the TPS and see if there is a change for the better. And if the catalytic converters are clogged that could lead to a rough running engine that you have to fight w/to keep running.

 

Exhaust flow doesn't SEEM restricted. And jumper that same plug for the pump, than unplug the afm? And IV already checked plug wires. The 2 lower wires were swapped originally, but didn't make a difference.