Just bought an S5! OMP removal without limp mode?
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Just bought an S5! OMP removal without limp mode?
So I have slowly been convincing my close friend and future bother-inlaw that rotaries are the way to go and yesterday we finally bought a 1989 FC together after a few months of looking,He just joined the club last week and his forum name is toelessjoe ( lost all his toes on his right foot in a workplace accident
). Heres a little background :
-168000kms on engine and body
-never had a rebuild
-we are the 4th owners. First owner had it from 89 -2010. The last one had it for about 2 years
-GXL so it has all the power options that still work!
-interior is 9/10, really great shape
-engine has 100psi compression
-doesn't run right now due to a dead short in the EFI circuit....fuse blows right away as soon as you try start the engine. The coils and condensor have already been replaced....next step is to check the injectors and look for bare wires
-has a few basic mods, front strut bar, full exhaust with wrapped header, cold air intake
-has new brake pads all around
- the body is 7/10. For a car thats been in Alberta for a very long time its in pretty good shape. Has a few rust spots we re planning to take care of
Heres a bad quality cell phone pic as we were pulling it home yesterday
The plan for the car is to do a few relaibility mods and make it into a nice summer cruiser. Nothing to crazy and we want to try and get the most life out of the engine before it needs it first rebuild. We don't want to pour a crazy amount of money it ( most of my money goes into my FD that im slowly bulidng haha ) and would like to keep it close to stock for now. So far I have the following mods and maintenance planned:
-change out plastic coolant neck for an aluminum one
-new fenders since both have bad matching spots on the bottom next to the bumper
-replace all the fuilds in the car
-new air filter
-get the injectors cleaned
-new pulsation dampener
-replace vaccuum hoses
-new thermostat
-remove OMP and start premixing
My question is: Is it possible to completely remove the OMP without having the ECU throw a code and go into limp mode? I know a PFC will solve that problem but we would like to keep the stock ECU. Will a SAFC be able to prevent this? Is the best way just to plug the pump off? or is there some way to trick the stock ECU? Any help/info and recommendations for other reliabiltiy mods will be muchly appreicated
). Heres a little background :
-168000kms on engine and body
-never had a rebuild
-we are the 4th owners. First owner had it from 89 -2010. The last one had it for about 2 years
-GXL so it has all the power options that still work!
-interior is 9/10, really great shape
-engine has 100psi compression
-doesn't run right now due to a dead short in the EFI circuit....fuse blows right away as soon as you try start the engine. The coils and condensor have already been replaced....next step is to check the injectors and look for bare wires
-has a few basic mods, front strut bar, full exhaust with wrapped header, cold air intake
-has new brake pads all around
- the body is 7/10. For a car thats been in Alberta for a very long time its in pretty good shape. Has a few rust spots we re planning to take care of
Heres a bad quality cell phone pic as we were pulling it home yesterday
The plan for the car is to do a few relaibility mods and make it into a nice summer cruiser. Nothing to crazy and we want to try and get the most life out of the engine before it needs it first rebuild. We don't want to pour a crazy amount of money it ( most of my money goes into my FD that im slowly bulidng haha ) and would like to keep it close to stock for now. So far I have the following mods and maintenance planned:
-change out plastic coolant neck for an aluminum one
-new fenders since both have bad matching spots on the bottom next to the bumper
-replace all the fuilds in the car
-new air filter
-get the injectors cleaned
-new pulsation dampener
-replace vaccuum hoses
-new thermostat
-remove OMP and start premixing
My question is: Is it possible to completely remove the OMP without having the ECU throw a code and go into limp mode? I know a PFC will solve that problem but we would like to keep the stock ECU. Will a SAFC be able to prevent this? Is the best way just to plug the pump off? or is there some way to trick the stock ECU? Any help/info and recommendations for other reliabiltiy mods will be muchly appreicated
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6 apples or a half a dozen oranges!.
..........
RE says you can take it off the engine,BUT you can't take it off the electrical connector..as it will put the ECU into Limp mode.
So,really it is not accomplishing the Task completely, of OMP removal from the engine and engine bay.
Only way to get the OMP OUT out the engine bay is an RTEK..Or Bumpstart's little info..(Australian trick).
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#8
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Because the OMP is a particularly failure prone piece of electronics made in the same era as the first sony discman and the super nintendo.
It has now been heat cycled thousands of times over the vehicle's lifetime.
It costs more than most FC's are worth to replace with a new unit.
It can take out a perfectly good ecu and put the car into limp mode at an inopportune time.
STYX covered the fixes above, the rtek being the most cost-effective solution. Although if you have a link for the australian trick, I'd be interested.
It has now been heat cycled thousands of times over the vehicle's lifetime.
It costs more than most FC's are worth to replace with a new unit.
It can take out a perfectly good ecu and put the car into limp mode at an inopportune time.
STYX covered the fixes above, the rtek being the most cost-effective solution. Although if you have a link for the australian trick, I'd be interested.
#9
Sharp Claws
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Because the OMP is a particularly failure prone piece of electronics made in the same era as the first sony discman and the super nintendo.
It has now been heat cycled thousands of times over the vehicle's lifetime.
It costs more than most FC's are worth to replace with a new unit.
It can take out a perfectly good ecu and put the car into limp mode at an inopportune time.
STYX covered the fixes above, the rtek being the most cost-effective solution. Although if you have a link for the australian trick, I'd be interested.
It has now been heat cycled thousands of times over the vehicle's lifetime.
It costs more than most FC's are worth to replace with a new unit.
It can take out a perfectly good ecu and put the car into limp mode at an inopportune time.
STYX covered the fixes above, the rtek being the most cost-effective solution. Although if you have a link for the australian trick, I'd be interested.
even OMPs i had that were good failed sitting on the shelf, they have a high rate of failure and they cost........ wait for it.......
$1800 new!
it's still on my list of things to do to take one of those bitches apart and see if i can come up with a rebuilding procedure for them. generally they simply fail due to oil intrusion, because all of these OMPs are prone to leak. if i can come up with a viton seal set, they would be much more reliable.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-20-12 at 12:13 PM.
#10
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I 100% agree with RE and RXSpeend16 are saying. Those are all my reasons for gtetting rid of it. My FC has 169000kms on it and its been in Alberta all its life which is far from an ideal location for keeping a car in mint condition. The engine has 100psi compression right now and when it comes time to rebuild I would like to reuse all the short block pieces. Premixing not only works 100% of the time every time it also prevents the side step wear that OMPS can help cause.
#11
Shoulda got an S4 lol jk jk. Yea, unless you chip the ECU, there's no way of fully removing it from the engine bay. For now, I have mine sitting on the AC lines (I don't use AC since its a vert, so don't care if it breaks). Good looking car though.
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