Trav

Anyone checked out these Jegs radiators?

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...83&prmenbr=361

Honestly the dimensions are a bit smallish (13x26), but it's an aluminum radiator, and they're obviously using them on "racing" applications...

Dunno, at that price ($110), might be worth checking one out and trying it for awhile. Couldn't be too hard to sell if it couldn't keep up w/ the heat of the rotary. I'm almost thinking this would simplify the front end a bit w/ a FMIC. Narrow enough you could put the FMIC below the rad. instead of in front of it... That alone would help the cause.

thoughts? Is there something I'm not seeing?

Trav

Well, think I just answered my own question. Just got off the phone w/ Jegs and they indicated that although it's light and aluminum, it purpose built for races (drags). Short bursts only -- not meant for the street. They indicated that for street use, they'd definitely recommend getting the biggest one that will fit.

So I guess if you've got a drag only car, it would be great -- great price. But I think I'll pass on that and get something bigger!

Travis R

I realize this is back from the dead, but I actually did a search (shocking) and found something close to what I was looking for.
I was wondering if anyone had tried, the universal Ford/Chevy radiators that Jegs sells.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...14&prmenbr=361
I measured the opening last night and I think either of the 26"x19" radiators would fit. I'll probably have to make some custom mounting brackets, but that's no big deal.
For $170 I think it's worth a shot.

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

http://rx7.speedrocket.com/rad/index.html

Fitting a chevy aluminum rad into an rx7

Bukwild

I bought a griffin 26x17x2.5 for a chevy. I think those were the dimensions. Anyways if you do this you will have to fab up the piping. Kind of sucks but I recommend that you fab something up and as soon as you get it water tight. Pull it off and have hard pipes made at a exhaust shop.

Travis R

Cool. It looks like it would be a little cleaner if the rad had both the inlet and outlet on the right hand side. I wonder if the Ford version is like that.
Thanks for the link.

asherwood

Try www.radiator.com They seem to be very knowledgable and have OEM styles for around $165, with a lifetime waranty...

Trav

I ended up buying the Griffin myself... VERY reasonable price for a nice quality alum. rad. Don't have it installed yet tho.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

Use the Griffen or Be Cool radiators that are dual pass made for race cars. (there sometimes called Scirocco radiators {not for the VW}? for cicuit racing). There a little more expensive, but still cheaper then Fluidyne or Koyo and they are superior in cooling capacity. A bonus of the dual pass other then better cooling is that BOTH inlet and outlet are on the same side (the right side,,,, perfect for a 2nd gen). Check Jegs and Summit Racing for these. you'll have to fab mounting and if you want the stock sensors in it. You'll also need to fab a heater line as well, but you'd have to do this with any generic radiator.

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~Mike..............

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

well that pic didnt work


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~MIke...................

Travis R

I get what you mean.
dual pass = same side inlet/outlet

sub9lulu

iTrader: (7)

what size Griffin ?

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

{QUOTE:} Travis R. I get what you mean.
dual pass = same side inlet/outlet end: { QUOTE}


No, not neccesarily. A dual pass is just that, a dual pass..... the water goes from right to left, then left to right again. The actual core is split into two. Look at the second pic I put up there.... the water enters the top hole.... travels horizontally to the left of the top portion of the core..... then does a "U-Turn" in the left end tank and enters a second core under the first one traveling to the right and out the lower hole. You can get radiators that are like stock that are a single pass with the end tanks on the top and bottom like stock and have the inlet/outlets anywere (on same side, or opposite sides).

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^this pic is like stock, a single pass top to bottom flow. The inlet / outlet holes could be placed anywere.

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^dual pass.... actually made up of two cores (one stacked on top of the other) flowing horizontally instead of up and down.

~Mike...............

RETed

No.
Chevy = correct botton, opposite toop
Ford = correct top, opposite bottom


-Ted

sub9lulu

iTrader: (7)

so these good ?
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...p&d=5&x=4&y=10
they seem small tho

Travis R

Gotcha.
I think I might try to Jegs double pass scirocco rad.
This is for a dedicated autocross car, so it only has to stay cool for a couple minutes at a time. Plus I'll probably have a big e-fan.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for posting the rad fitment link. I bought a Howe rad a few months ago that I'm going to have to put in soon. I thought it was going to be easy, but after seeing those pictures I'm not sure how I can do the hose routing. Anyone have any info that would help?

Trav

FYI: You'll actually get more CFM from the stock clutch unit than a big e-fan.

I still prefer the e-fan personally, but keep that in mind.

ReZ311

iTrader: (4)

Good thread guys.

Travis R

Maybe, but I get to decide when the e-fan is turned on. Do you know what CFM the stock unit is rated at? I've never seen a number.
I'm doing everything I can to decrease the engines rotating mass... I'm even considering a remote, electric water pump. So there will only be two pulleys on the motor, one for the eccentric shaft and one for the alternator.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

I got my radiator. Its a double pass, 1" tubing, 2 row, all aluminum, all welded (no epoxy), stamped aluminum tanks (not fab'ed), has a sweet anodized blue water fill with 1/8 pipe thread hole for overfill. Its 19"X24"X3". The fins are welded (or some kind of aluminum brazed) to the tubes instead of epoxied or left loose. Should be pleanty of cooling capacity to keep my ride cool (400 rwhp with AC).

~Mike............

Travis R

Looks great. Did you have that made by Griffin?
*cough*$$$*cough*

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

Its a universal. I don't know the manufacture, but I'm gueessing Griffin do to the end tanks and the overall construction. I have less then $300 invested in this . I sill have to weld in a couple sensor bungs and the heater core line and make brackets for it to mount in the car.

~Mike.....................