Are the injector getting stuck open? Thats the only reason i can think of why it wont stay on when the fuel pump is connected

 

I don't think so. They don't leak down when the fuel system is primed and the car is off. But it wouldn't hurt to double check. Thanks.

 

For the hell of it, we re-did the wiring to CAS from the ECU. Using the factory shielded wires. We match ECU pin to each of the 4 pins of the CAS. The engine will not start, and we get no injector pulse and no fire on T2. The only way the engine will crank and idle is to have it wired different then what the FSM (and every picture online shows).
But once its re-wired, it'll crank and idle for just about forever it seems so long as we don't turn on the fuel pump. It dies when it gets fuel pressure. We had the car idling and used a pressurized gas can to spray fuel into the fuel rail and it died instantly. When we crank it back up it backfired, and idles fine. But dies when you tap the gas.
We set the timing the other day. At a 750rpm idle, the vacuum is now 15inches, AFR reads 10-11, which seems rich to me but I figure the car needs to be running well before I can rely on the gauges' accuracy. Is there any way to adjust the air/fuel mixture through-out the RPM band? or can it only be adjusted for idle via the initial set coupler? Thanks for all the help, thus far. Please feel free to throw any ideas or suggestions at us when it comes to the dying when it gets fuel pressure issue.

 

Crazy thought. Is the fuel going into the correct side of the rail?

At this point, you have checked and rechecked everything under the sun. I feel like something simple is missing. A car should run on fuel, not stall.

 

Although ours is a Japanese engine, it has the US fuel rails, ie the fuel enters on the primary rail on the right side, then goes up to the secondary rail on the left. We even tried swapping the fuel lines but it wouldn't start.
Its weird that it dies before it even builds up pressure. If we keep the throttle down, it'll run with the pump on but it taking about half throttle and it runs awful.
If we pressurize the fuel system, and turn off the fuel pump, it'll crank and idle all the way up to operating temp lol.
While the car was running, we pushed opened the flapper on the AFM to see if that had any effect. Nothing happened. Shouldn't the engine run different if we open the flapper while its running? Also, should something happen when I disconnect the boost sensor while the car is running? I was told if it was disconnected the ECU would turn off the injectors but as a test, I did it and the car ran the same.
Also, we're running a 10 on our AFR gauge. That seems really rich... is that normal?
And when we start the car, it doesn't seem to have a 'choke/cold start', it doesn't crank at 2000rpm then idle down as it warms up. It cranks at 500-600rpm, and gradually gets to 750 once its warm. We think there may be an issue with the BAC. But that wouldn't cause our dying issue could it?
Thanks again for any and all help. Ill post back soon to see if we've gotten anywhere.

 

UPDATE....sorta lol; I did some voltage testing on a few sensors. I tested the voltage of the my boost sensor at 3.9inch (100mm) of vacuum and instead of the 4.5V, I got 2.2V; I have 3 boost sensors and they all tested the same voltage. Any ideas as to why I'm not getting enough voltage? I can't imagine all 3 sensors being bad unless I'm testing them wrong.

We got the engine up to 5000rpm today but it never registered positive pressure on our gauge. At 3000rpm, the gauge read 0vac/boost, and then at 5000rpm, it read 30vacuum. Btw I have the twin scroll solenoid removed, if that makes a difference. I've just been told that I wouldn't have boost until after 2700rpm, which I liked bc it was less stress on the engine.

It still dies when we turn on the fuel pump. Under heavy throttle, it'll struggle with the pump on. We got it to 3000, cut off the pump and it jumped to 5000 today. It seems like we're getting too much fuel pressure but everything reads within factory spec. ugh lol.

One last question, (for now anyways lol) my intake manifold does have an EGR valve (which I hear is the normal for jspec), but it doesn't have a subzero start port on the LIM either, any idea why that is? This thing is weird as all get out. lol Thanks for all the help.