Yeah she's been a pain but its been its been fun. We're considered going standalone, as a last resort. After connecting the water temp switch, it tried to start. But we'll be, I'm front mounting the intercooler so the car has some down time for a couple days until I get it all back together. Thanks for ya'll's input.

 

At least with a standalone, you can optimize the tune for the parts installed.

 

True. I'm mostly stock with it for the moment except for the catless exhaust lol; I'd like to enlarge the secondaries at some point. I spent most of the day putting the piping together for the FMIC. Ugh lol. I'm using the stock top mount but putting it in the front. Hopefully tomorrow ill finish up and get to try to fire the thing off. Thanks as always for yall's input.

 

This is a good point. I missed this post earlier today, but I have had wiring back out of harnesses and cause major issues. Just make sure you double check all of your connections and put dielectric grease in the terminals.

 

okay we got the intercooler/ intake piping done, so we got to try to crank it today; we chained it to our truck and pulled it in 2nd gear. it kept backfiring/popping out the tailpipe but never started. it kinda sputtered like its trying to start and then nothing. It spark-knocked while we were trying to crank it but dad said it didn't seem major enough to damage anything (we didn't hear anything rattle around thank God lol). It'll spin over and then suddenly, the starter would seem like it was under a load and kinda chug down. We'd let off the key and hit it again, and it would spin normal.
Dad said it seems like the timing is off but we're sure the engine is in time. So we're going to look closer at the CAS to see if something is wrong there. We re-wired the CAS wires a few weeks ago back when we were trying to get an injector pulse with the AFM installed. As ya'll remember, we got the pulse once we ran a 12V to the water temp switch on the ECU. We don't have the fuel pump resistor relay, could that be causing an issue? Also, since we're using an aftermarket fuel pump, is there a way to rewire it so we don't need the fuel pump resistor relay? Also, I've heard that the AFM needs to have wires A and B jumped so it'll tell the ECU that the fuel pump is on or something (I don't quite remember). We have one of them grounded, instead of connected together. Could this be possible?
BTW We double checked our connectors and none of them were backed-out or lose, unfortunately. Is there a way to test the CAS besides the OHM test the FSM recommends?
It seems like if the pulse/spark were faster, the damn thing would start... we just aren't sure how to get it to do that. Ugh, I may just scrap the turbo setup and put my old Nikki on it with a set of headers. Thanks again for everyone's help. I eagerly await anything ya'll can throw at me.

 

If you have access to a lab scope, you can observe the waveform that the CAS outputs. Any amount of spark knock is bad. You have the CAS installed incorrectly. They can be a pain to get lined up. There are dozens of threads that cover the proper way to install the CAS. Start there. The FC CAS is very reliable and rarely fails.

 

Take it out and with the key on ,spun it by hand and you should here the injectors clicking And the coils making a slight clicking noise. You can bypass the fuel pump relay resistor by jumping the terminals on the plug,if I remember correctly,you just jump each terminal with the one directly across from it. I had the same problem on my swap and that's what I did

 

Thanks, does the knock box need to be jumped or have the wiring bypassed? We don't have it and everyone says its unnecessary but does anything need to be connected to complete the circuit? Or can you just remove it and that's it? Because it seems like our timing is MASSIVELY retarded.
We used to spin the CAS outside of the block by hand and everything would click. But when we'd put it into the block, we'd lose our injector pulse unless we disconnected the AFM. Now that water temp sw is connected, we've got our pulse with everything connected. But spinning the CAS by hand making everything click faster then when we were pulling the car in 2nd gear at 20mph. Any idea why the CAS would act normal outside of the block but stupid once it was stabbed into place?
Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

It spins faster by hand because it doesnt spin that fat to begin with. There is a gear reduction. Pull the cover off and crank the engine and you will see how fast it actually spins.
I'm not sure about the knock box. Do you have access to the FSM and the wiring diagrams?

This is the website to go to to get it. foxed.ca

 

Yeah that makes sense, I forgot about the gear reduction lol; I've got the FSM (thank god). We've read it a few times but we can't seem to figure if we need to re-wire anything since we don't have the knock box. Some people have said to just unplug it and you're fine but it just seems like we would need to rewire something to complete the circuit. or I could just buy a knock box and wire it in lol.
If it pulses 3 times per RPM, shouldn't I get 600-700 pulses per minute, if my cranking speed is 200-300RPM? I'm getting one pulse per injector every 2-3 seconds.

 

I still think that you're PCM is to blame and you may have a whole heap of electrical issues in the harness itself

 

I have no doubt on it having a heap of harness issues lol; We've tried both of our PCM's and gotten the same result, but we're with you, we still think it could be the PCM, too.

 

I used the knock box on mine, im not sure if you need it,is was told you did,that's why i used it. if you want I can go over my harness,and tell you what I kept and got rid of

 

I'd hate to ask that of you but it would be ALOT of help. Could you please? I'd be very grateful. It would be a big help. Thank you so much.

 

I'll get some pictures of everything tomorrow at work,I know I deleted all of the emissions,I kept the knock control unit,fuel pump relay/ resistor,circuit opening relay. That's basically it besides the sensors,injectors,coils,and cas

 

Thanks so much!

 

Well, we got the knock box wired in but it didn't help. We may have gas fouled the plugs. Ugh lol. We're going to pin test our wiring. It almost started when we made the ignition spark hotter. It backfired out the exhaust, we even got smoke for the first time lol. But it just isn't starting.
It seems like the timing is low but I'm sure we'll figure it out eventually. I just hope once we get it fired off it doesn't have the same compression/coolant leak issue the last 2 engines had. I appreciate ya'lls help and if anyone has any ideas to throw at us, we'll be happy to hear them.

 

Are you sure the CAS is on correct? Sounds like its way off, like by a switched wire or something... because what you are describing is what happened to me when i accidently hooked it up wrong

 

Good news! Kinda. lol. We checked the CAS wires again and we did have them mixed up. The car runs but its weird...to say the least. But first things first, a HUGE thanks to everyone who helped especially Erick31876 for the pictures he sent. We really didn't want to put a V8 in this thing lol.

Back to the new weirdness... If we give it throttle it backfires out the exhaust. (Almost like the fire isn't hot enough.) It hunts for an idle. And the engine dies instantly if we connect the walboro fuel pump. Yeah...never seen that before lol.
We prime the fuel system, turn off the fuel pump- it cranks fast and it idles up and down a bit (it could be due to the aluminum flywheel, though on the 12A it didn't lobe near this much) and runs between 10 and 15 inches VAC. If we give it throttle, it runs 20in VAC, and even though I hear the turbo spin roughly 3000rpm, no boost at all. We thought maybe we were getting some kind of feedback so we made a point to rewire the pump solely to the battery and it still kills the engine the second we turn it on. I just it just stops running, no struggle, just stops. Cut the fuel, it fires up and runs. Any ideas?

 

Well now it sounds like its off by a tooth, lol. Make sure you stab it in correctly as it has a tendency to jump around

 

We just came inside from working on it. We messed with the CAS (re-stabbed it, messed with the timing) but to no avail. We swapped a couple of the CAS wires, but now it just dies about 10-15sec after starting instead of running for awhile then dying due to no fuel.
The engine still dies instantly when we turn on the fuel pump. We checked and it has spark, and injector pulse when it dies. We thought maybe we had a fuel pressure issue and thats why it would die the moment the pump comes on, but we have a fuel pressure gauge connected, and it dies before pressure is built up.
We can keep it running with the pump on, but it takes about half throttle and it runs awful. Struggles to stay alive. VAC gauge goes crazy.
When it idles, it runs smooth aside from a slight lobe that probably due to the flywheel. Now, with the pump off, when we give it some throttle, it backfires out the exhaust like the spark isnt hot enough but we did check and we're getting great spark on the leading and trailing.

I've got a few unrelated questions:
1. How do you raise the idle on a TII? I read in the Haynes manual but I hoped you guys could simplify it. If thats possible.
2. At what RPM should I start seeing Boost, I have the twin scroll solenoid disconnected. I'm told that keeps the turbo from running at a lower RPM. The FSM says 2700rpm, I think. And at what RPM does boost peak? Stock S4 turbo btw.
3. I have a Hyundai BOV/ Recirculating Valve. Originally, it has a solenoid that received an ECU signal to give vacuum to the BOV so it would open. I'm wondering how to use this on my car. The stock one was broken when I got it and the Hyundai one was free. I guess I'm wondering if there's a way to connect it where it would get the signal to open, or find a mechanical way to connect it. The Hyundai stays open if I tee it into the boost sensor hose. Or should I just buy an aftermarket and if so, what brand/ model?
Thanks again for everyone's help!

 

On mine,the wires colors on the cas,and the wires on the harness that go to it are the same color,so I just made sure that they were matched with the same color

 

Ours don't have the same colors lol; for us, the inside the CAS has a green, white, white with a black stripe, and red. The shielded 4-wire that runs from the CAS connector to the ECU has red, black, green, white. And they don't match up, not red to red, green to green.

 

Make sure its wired up correctly because it sounds like it loosened on a wire or something. Still sounds like your off a tooth, as it "idles", but wont make power. The CAS, in my experience, will always jump; and as such, i move it one tooth so it can align when it gets stabbed in.
Next step would be to check the coils to make sure they work

 

We got back on it today but its still dying when we put power to the fuel pump. Any ideas? We tested the injectors and we have pressure and volume. Thanks!