Oh yeah, dropped the ball on the wastegate porting being necessary. Sorry bout that.

I ported mine when I had mine out, but I didn't port it enough and still hit fuel cut. Planning on opening it up some more when I get my "core" turbos in the mail.

 

ABS is now working, sunroof is all back together and working, I have a small leak in the radiator and clutch line, but i was expecting that after it sat for so long. Gonna order a SS clutch line and Koyo radiator. (found koyo radiator for $278 shipped!)

I really need a exhaust. Mine is falling apart! gonna do that once I get some money saved up also need to replace the trans mount and install new shifter bushings.

 

Racing beat.

 

Have you ported the turbo yet? That should be inexpensive just time consuming. I

would def do that before the exhaust system. Also did you research FCD?

 

Still need to port the turbo. I plan on doing that and the exhaust this winter.

I picked up a 2000 civic 4 door for $200 bucks. It had 240,000 miles and a slow leak from the headgasket. but it is the perfect winter beater car. no way in hell my 7 is seeing salt or snow.

i am at almost at 500 miles. This weekend I am going to change the oil and fix a little oil leak from the low oil sensor.

The idiot cluster is pissing me off. the clock works sometimes as does the bulb check. if i smack the dash or hit a bump it gets worse or better. I think its in the circuit board or the wire harness. need more time. im most likely going to re solder it.

had the water heater in my house go out so there goes my cash for the radiator and clutch line.

but she drives nice! exsp on the cooler nights we have been having lately. huge power difference than the 90 deg humid summer days!

 

 

Gorgeous! To be honest... I like the red/orange interior, it's totally dated by it's really clean so it looks cool. Sitting in it must be a bit of a time warp. Have you considered the "3 fork" Rx steering wheel? I personally prefer them over the two fork version.

 

S4 owners dream about this all working right.



I finally have mine working without dim clock or intermittent lights. I re soldered the cold solder joints. and i was still having a kinda dim display.

I found if you take the pins on the back of the idiot cluster and slightly bend each one a little bit to the center line of the cluster they make a really strong connection.



Replaced all the burnt out bulbs in the cluster and the FTP/turn signal. it looks bad *** having it all lighting up the way it was ment to.

 

 

Awesome! Yeah I love the gauge cluster at night, and the halloween style orange they glow. HEY lemme know if your Low fuel light works when your actually low. My fuel gauge reads about a 1/4 low so I've never had to ***** to drive it long enough to find out. Lol, stupid I know but I'm curious! Every time I think I'm running on fumes I always still have at least 2 gallons left in the tank.

 

yeah it works. i had ***** to let it get real low. i took a turn and it slowly got bright then later on it slowly got bright and stayed on. I filled up right away.

 

Ha, very cool in my 12 years of "Rxing" I've never seen one work. :P

 

Never? Mine works too, I guess that makes me special

 

Nice build. Check with Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda in Virginia for parts. He has hooked me up with fantastic prices recently on a ton of parts.

 

+1 malloy mazda is IMO the best dealer in the country for parts. Ive called a few different places that tell me parts are discontinued then i called malloy and they have them or have ordered them for me

 

yeah the local mazda dealership here are very rx-7 friendly. Since my company does business with them and our parts department hooks up there employees they hook me up too. they found my the last mazda reman s4 turbo motor mazda had at a dealership collecting dust.

on another note. today i think my oil sender unit is starting to crap out on me. 30psi about 3k on and almost 0 at idle... is that normal for a s4? i coulda sworn i had 60 when i first started the new motor up but it prolly had assembly lube caked everywhere in it.

i also reset the tps and my bac valve is all the way in and i have 800rpm idle. i adjusted the variable resister per the fsm to highest idle but cant bring back down the idle. its idling at 1000 now. any ideas?

 

What a gorgeous find...it's in such pristine condition. I'm totally in love with the interior. As states above, I never liked the maroon color but it's in such immaculate condition that it just looks beautiful. I would try my hardest to keep it looking as stock as possible with just a bit of engine mod. Great find man. Completely jealous lol

 

Stated**

 

thanks. when i first read the ad i was like ewww red interror.

once i saw how pristine the interror was i told the wife im not leaving without this car. very rare to find in such great shape.

i gotta admit so far it has been a lot of hard work. I have experence in restoring a 1985 300zx i did but the mazda rx-7 have sooo much electrical problems. I had almost no problems with my nissan. but its worth it.

 

The oil sending units are known to go bad and give false readings. Try checking it by removing the sending unit and using a guage tester.

The car should idle at 750rpm. What does the FSM say when you can't get the idle back down? Was the 7 idling fine before you touched the TPS?

 

im gonna try a sending unit. i got good oil pressure with the manual gauge tester...

the rx-7 never had a idle below 1000 now with the tps perfectly adjusted at 1.000 it idles at 800-900 with the iac screw all the way in and the variable resistor in the middleish to low position

i was having hot start flood issues before but turning the variable resistor lower fixed it.

 

wow first cold morning ever in the 7. was about 48 and i found out my car wont start. spent all day thinking about it at work and with all the cold start flooding and idle issues i decided to check the cold start thermowax adjustment. it was way out of wack.

i turned the screw till the marks lined up and started the car. (about 60 outside) car started and idled at 1500 slowly going to about 900 and stopping when warmer.

tomorrow i am going to re check the tps, bac adjustment and timing. bac valve is screwed all the way in making be think its bad.

also had the low coolant light/buzzer come on i need to replace that radiator asap. that slow leak is getting bigger.

love this cold weather though huge difference in power.

 

Really awesome restore so far

 

I think the thermowax shouldn't be touched at all from what I can recall but I may be wrong. Also check the " if forget what it's called" it's a little small plastic piece next to the passanger shock tower. It should have glue covering the screw from the factory but maybe a prev owner took out the glue and decided to adjust it. Thats what happend to my 7.

 

Its called the variable resistor. Sucks for me because the previous owner messed with that, the bac and the throttle body screws. Today I was pulling my hair out over it all.

luckely I found a vac leak at the acv block off plate, still after that was having issues. I adjusted the cold wax setting again, and the throttle body screw. Set the tps and bac all over again. Im 99% sure it was the throttle body screw. it was holding the plates open a bit too far.

now the bac valve is not adjusted all the way in and i can set it fine. after setting the tps to 1.050 ohms i set the variable resistor to the highest idle then re did the bac.

Took it for a test drive and have a perfect 750 idle that is rock solid and a difference in power (a good difference)

as for the cold idle adjustment I am going to check that in the morning. i may have to mess with it as it has 2 screws for adjustment. One scrw that faces the drivers side is for how high the rpm idles on a cold start. the other screw adjusts the clearence for the cam. kinda like a valve adjustment on a piston engine.... not like anyone here knows about those LOL