J5Sense's Turbo II Restoration **Lots Of Pics**
08-03-11, 08:34 AM
#101
I'd make deleting the main cat a priority...without the air pump and acv the cat may go bad pretty quick. You could always get the Bonez cat delete pipe (like $60) and avoid any potential problems that can result from cats getting clogged up. The pre-cat isn't a big deal since it doesn't use the air pump for anything. Just something to consider.
08-03-11, 10:58 AM
#104
Just took her for the first test drive. no leaks runs at 1/4 temp while driving. so after i parked it i spun the clutch fan and as hot as the motor is it should have had pretty good resistance..
it spun almost freely. so im gonna park it untill the part comes in. last thing i want is a blown coolant seal.
it spun almost freely. so im gonna park it untill the part comes in. last thing i want is a blown coolant seal.
08-03-11, 03:56 PM
#105
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: PR
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you ever want to sell that beautiful car I'm first in line. 
I vote to keep it as stock as possible, makes me drool more. Awesome find "car + engine" good build thread and love the 80's red interior.
Did you fix the rust from the leaky abs in the engine bay?
and post some videos,
I vote to keep it as stock as possible, makes me drool more. Awesome find "car + engine" good build thread and love the 80's red interior.
Did you fix the rust from the leaky abs in the engine bay?
and post some videos,
08-03-11, 07:28 PM
#107
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,827
Received 2,595 Likes
on
1,843 Posts
the engine will survive 110c if it gets there slowly, but not good to push it....
the thermostat is 82c, so it should run between 82-90c, which is something like 1/4- 1/3rd on the gauge
08-03-11, 08:26 PM
#108
If you ever want to sell that beautiful car I'm first in line.
I vote to keep it as stock as possible, makes me drool more. Awesome find "car + engine" good build thread and love the 80's red interior.
Did you fix the rust from the leaky abs in the engine bay?
and post some videos,
I vote to keep it as stock as possible, makes me drool more. Awesome find "car + engine" good build thread and love the 80's red interior.
Did you fix the rust from the leaky abs in the engine bay?
and post some videos,
Yes i scrubbed the engine bay and applied some protective paint.. it was only surface rust from the brake fluid eating the paint.
08-04-11, 03:46 PM
#110
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: PR
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-05-11, 12:36 AM
#111
Anyway today was a busy day for the 'ol Bat
I am lucky to know a guy who gave me 4 newer bridgestone potenzas 205/55/16's for the RX-7 today. Not my fav tire but free is better than the 9 year old dry rotted flat tires that where on the car. I dont know what the previous owner did with his tires but he had quite a selection on the car.... Had 225/50/15 and a 205/55/16 on the front and a 210/55/16 and a 215/55/16 on the rear. Dummy.
I also found out that the rims are directional. 2 diffrerent rims for the right and left of the car... cool stuff. (when you remember and put them on the right side of the car!)
I also changed the rear diff and trans fluid.
The trans fluid was nasy. black smelly fluid. The rear diff looks like its been well maintained. Trans got mobil one synthetic 75w90 Rear diff got Royal purple Synthetic 90w140 lsd safe.
On my old 300zx i always used shop bulk for the trans and rear diff. Never had a Problem with the rear diff, But honda MTF changed its formula to a lighter viscosity saying it will help colder temp shifting and help shifting in general. It did for 3 months. Then one night i was boosting in 5th gear on the way home from a 2nd shift at 2 am and "boom" went my trans. A bearing in the center of the counter shaft blew apart. heated up and failed. I rebuilt that trans a year previous and know for a fact it all was built right. So in my experence for older cars the thicker the Fluid the better. I will stay away from thinner fluids. I could have got the royal purple MTF synthetic But it looked too thin.
My Fan clutch came in today too. I overnighted it total price was about $100.00 part was $60 at rockauto.com great site, they shipped it fast and kept my email inbox filled with activity. Cheap prices too and quality parts. Dealer wanted $225.00
My old one spun the same resistance hot or cold. Causing my temps to rise at idle. I put in the new one and noticed airflow immeaditly and once it got hot it pulled some air. coolant temps now at 1/4 instead of 3/4 at idle.
I started to go and set the idle and timing but my battery just died. it was a pos one but ill check the alternator in the morning.
08-05-11, 12:47 PM
#112
figures... i fix the fan clutch and now the alternator wont charge the battery. double checked the connections, only have 10v at the alternator power output. should be 14+
local store has one in stock for 100 bucks. not bad considering i just put a honda oem one in a 2006 honda crv last week part alone was 890.00 plus 300 to pull the intake to install it.
i hate aftermarket alternators. when i put one on my 300zx i had to do it 3 times in one day before they gave me one that worked.
wish me luck. it will last untill i can afford a 100amp 3rd gen one.
local store has one in stock for 100 bucks. not bad considering i just put a honda oem one in a 2006 honda crv last week part alone was 890.00 plus 300 to pull the intake to install it.
i hate aftermarket alternators. when i put one on my 300zx i had to do it 3 times in one day before they gave me one that worked.
wish me luck. it will last untill i can afford a 100amp 3rd gen one.
08-05-11, 01:14 PM
#114
yeah sometimes you get lucky... sometimes real unlucky. 3 alternator installs in a day. after repalcing the 2nd one and it not working right. i wanted to throw it through there window. its not a easy task changing one in a 85 300zx. not like the rx-7 where its right on top
08-05-11, 01:55 PM
#115
Epitrochoid Chamber FTW
Lol, throwing an alternator... That thing has good weight to it and would be probably not unlike throwing a shot put right through they're window. That would've been tempting indeed >
08-05-11, 11:06 PM
#116
Ok alternator in and charging properly. Car sat idling for over a hour and temps stayed at 1/4 on the gauge.
i put 40 miles on the car since ive bought it and filled it up with gas. I am now on 1/4 tank. lol inbetween spilling it out and running it on half a motor and all the idleing its still funney...
I now have a break pedal too!!! for all you TII owners out there make sure your front brake pads move freely in the calipers! mine where sized up causing a very soft pedal. grind down the pads so they move freely and grind the slide pins too so everything moves. I swore i needed a master cylinder.
Still have a ABS lite on dispite swaping it whith a known good hydrolic unit. So its has to be electrical. it instantly comes on so i know its not a wheel sensor or abs pump.
tomorrow i am installing my test pipe for the cat. and bleeding the old nasty clutch fluid. ah hell ill bleed the brakes one more time now that i got a good pedal.
i put 40 miles on the car since ive bought it and filled it up with gas. I am now on 1/4 tank. lol inbetween spilling it out and running it on half a motor and all the idleing its still funney...
I now have a break pedal too!!! for all you TII owners out there make sure your front brake pads move freely in the calipers! mine where sized up causing a very soft pedal. grind down the pads so they move freely and grind the slide pins too so everything moves. I swore i needed a master cylinder.
Still have a ABS lite on dispite swaping it whith a known good hydrolic unit. So its has to be electrical. it instantly comes on so i know its not a wheel sensor or abs pump.
tomorrow i am installing my test pipe for the cat. and bleeding the old nasty clutch fluid. ah hell ill bleed the brakes one more time now that i got a good pedal.
08-08-11, 11:32 PM
#117
Ok...
found out why my gauge cluster was acting wierd.... it wouldent do a bulb check and the clock was acting weak.
the connector on the back of the alternator had a weak wire, it was almost broken apart. I spliced in a new wire and now i have a bright clock and bright bulbs and bulb check works.
Im going to do some more grounding as the wire harness is crap.
Today I also installed a pre-cat test pipe. OMG huge difference in turbo response. i am impressed.
battery voltage check at the battery is 12.9volts. i dont know if the new alternator is crap (wont surprise me) or it is working properly. i turned on all electrical accessories and it stayed constant. did not drop below 12.5 at all.
still am going to get a exhaust system. the main cat and the mufflers are leaky and its annoying. but ive spent way too much lately and the wife is going to make me sleep in the car if i buy anything else this month
Current issues; (chime in if you can point me in a direction!)
-can someone explain how the factory alarm works?
-Does the tII have power door locks?
-abs light still on after swapping leaky hydrolic unit with known good one.
found out why my gauge cluster was acting wierd.... it wouldent do a bulb check and the clock was acting weak.
the connector on the back of the alternator had a weak wire, it was almost broken apart. I spliced in a new wire and now i have a bright clock and bright bulbs and bulb check works.
Im going to do some more grounding as the wire harness is crap.
Today I also installed a pre-cat test pipe. OMG huge difference in turbo response. i am impressed.
battery voltage check at the battery is 12.9volts. i dont know if the new alternator is crap (wont surprise me) or it is working properly. i turned on all electrical accessories and it stayed constant. did not drop below 12.5 at all.
still am going to get a exhaust system. the main cat and the mufflers are leaky and its annoying. but ive spent way too much lately and the wife is going to make me sleep in the car if i buy anything else this month
Current issues; (chime in if you can point me in a direction!)
-can someone explain how the factory alarm works?
-Does the tII have power door locks?
-abs light still on after swapping leaky hydrolic unit with known good one.
08-09-11, 09:16 AM
#118
What specifically do you need to know about the alarm?
I have never seen an fc w/ pwr locks but a friend if mine says he had them?
My abs light never came on until I removed my abs pump. Does your abs work when you slam on the brakes? If not maybe the computer is bad?
I have never seen an fc w/ pwr locks but a friend if mine says he had them?
My abs light never came on until I removed my abs pump. Does your abs work when you slam on the brakes? If not maybe the computer is bad?
08-09-11, 11:47 AM
#119
The voltage should be much higher than that, 12.5v is not enough to charge the battery sufficently and run all the accessories. 12.9v isn't really acceptable either...you should be seeing 13.5 to 14v at the battery with the car running.
The exhaust provides a major improvement. To me, it's the most fun mod to do...sexy sound, more power, more response...just more fun.
Are you running factory rim and tire sizes? I've read a few places where if you're running anything other than factory rim and tire sizes the ABS doesn't work properly. I know I'll be deleting mine as soon as practical, since I'm running staggered and plus sized rims and tires.
edit:just read a previous post of yours, running factory tire sizes...not sure on trouble shooting, but if you take it up to speed (30ish) and slam the brakes you should get the pulsating pedal. If the light is on, this will not happen regardless. I would still just delete it, lol.
The exhaust provides a major improvement. To me, it's the most fun mod to do...sexy sound, more power, more response...just more fun.
Are you running factory rim and tire sizes? I've read a few places where if you're running anything other than factory rim and tire sizes the ABS doesn't work properly. I know I'll be deleting mine as soon as practical, since I'm running staggered and plus sized rims and tires.
edit:just read a previous post of yours, running factory tire sizes...not sure on trouble shooting, but if you take it up to speed (30ish) and slam the brakes you should get the pulsating pedal. If the light is on, this will not happen regardless. I would still just delete it, lol.
08-11-11, 01:06 AM
#120
So today I pulled the car in the shop to work on her. Smelled fuel.
Found gas puddling on the lower intake manifold. Im lucky that did not catch on fire. I had to pull the upper intake manifold and found a gas leak at the Pulsation dampner to fuel rail.
I deserve it for not pressuring the rail when I was putting the motor together. I would have seen that leak. I replaced the crush rings and found I used the wrong ones when i put it together. The fuel pulsation dampner is new.
I re-pressured the rail and no leaks. while I had the intake off I had some 10 gauge wire and ran a wire from the alternator to the battery. Ran grounds from the alternator, engine main ground, and l/f strut tower to the neg. battery post.
This Fixed the alarm, it works fine now, and now my idle is perfect. I mean perfect rock solid 750rpm starts perfect too. very impressed.
I think the combo of the grounding and fixing the lower fuel pressure from the gas leak helped.
my sunroof parts came in so tomorrow i gotta bleet the coolant again while i install the sunroof.
she is comming together. just need to put some more milage on her.
Found gas puddling on the lower intake manifold. Im lucky that did not catch on fire. I had to pull the upper intake manifold and found a gas leak at the Pulsation dampner to fuel rail.
I deserve it for not pressuring the rail when I was putting the motor together. I would have seen that leak. I replaced the crush rings and found I used the wrong ones when i put it together. The fuel pulsation dampner is new.
I re-pressured the rail and no leaks. while I had the intake off I had some 10 gauge wire and ran a wire from the alternator to the battery. Ran grounds from the alternator, engine main ground, and l/f strut tower to the neg. battery post.
This Fixed the alarm, it works fine now, and now my idle is perfect. I mean perfect rock solid 750rpm starts perfect too. very impressed.
I think the combo of the grounding and fixing the lower fuel pressure from the gas leak helped.
my sunroof parts came in so tomorrow i gotta bleet the coolant again while i install the sunroof.
she is comming together. just need to put some more milage on her.
08-13-11, 05:08 PM
#121
Read through your thread and didn't notice if you ported the wastegate? Must be done if your changing out the exhaust!!!!! I would recomend an s5 hotside and turbo manifold swap out.
Underneath the pwr mirrors switch is a factory alarm switch for sensativity. Also the pwr locks are engaged when you lock the door manually from the drivers side. Meaning the pass door will lock. Prob broken though???
Shifter bushing are always bad on these cars! Does the shifter feel sloppy?
Underneath the pwr mirrors switch is a factory alarm switch for sensativity. Also the pwr locks are engaged when you lock the door manually from the drivers side. Meaning the pass door will lock. Prob broken though???
Shifter bushing are always bad on these cars! Does the shifter feel sloppy?
08-13-11, 05:32 PM
#122
Read through your thread and didn't notice if you ported the wastegate? Must be done if your changing out the exhaust!!!!! I would recomend an s5 hotside and turbo manifold swap out.
Underneath the pwr mirrors switch is a factory alarm switch for sensativity. Also the pwr locks are engaged when you lock the door manually from the drivers side. Meaning the pass door will lock. Prob broken though???
Shifter bushing are always bad on these cars! Does the shifter feel sloppy?
Underneath the pwr mirrors switch is a factory alarm switch for sensativity. Also the pwr locks are engaged when you lock the door manually from the drivers side. Meaning the pass door will lock. Prob broken though???
Shifter bushing are always bad on these cars! Does the shifter feel sloppy?
-shifter is a little sloppy. i blead the clutch pedal but i still suspect a a leak in the slave cyl. so that and bushings are my next project. (clutch pedal still not where i think it shoud be)
-the alarm light works and the alarm itself. Is it normal to only arm it by locking the lock with the outer handle pulled then close the door with the handle pulled for it to arm? it beeps when I do this and the alarm light flashes and then sets. i tryed reaching in the window and un locked the lock and the alarm went off.
I suspect the power door locks should do it if i close the door and lock it with the key?
-the wiring diagram shows a light in the key hole for both door locks? i suspect mine are out or not avail on a 87 tII?
-As for the power door locks I see its a simple relay setup. I sispect a bad actuator as they always go bad.
just fixing her a lil at a time... abs diag this week. constant light on with a known good valve unit installed. i suspect wiring or abs control unit.
08-13-11, 05:51 PM
#124
The s5 turbo will bolt right up to the motor. You need the manifold & turbo.
Also you need to get a Fuel Cut Defender (FCD) . So before you put on exhaust (replace cat) you MUST port wastegate and install FCD.
Yeah I bought a blown s5 turbo unit and just used the hotside and maniold. Manifold design is better and the s5 hotside has 2 holes for the wastegate instead of 1 on the s4 hotside.
Bushings on the shifter may have fallen apart and thus need replacing. Easy Fix and easy to check to see if there broken. Mazdatrix has a great how to on their site.