J5sense

iTrader: (3)

anyone know what the yellow wire with the red stripe conector goes?

its down by the starter. I have everything plugged up over there.

blk87Turbo2

iTrader: (23)

If it's any help, I have the same connector just zip tied to other wires...never has been plugged into anything.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

I believe it is for the oil pressure sensor.

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

I think it may be for the oil sensor too. It was 3am when I was looking at it I said f it I'm going to bed. I should have her running tomorrow. Stuck at work today.

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

ok anyone have pics of the vac lines/ fuel lines with the upper manifold off????i cant find my dissassembly pics... (on a usb drive)

blk87Turbo2

iTrader: (23)

With or without the rat's nest? Without is pretty easy. With is a bit more complicated.

blk87Turbo2

iTrader: (23)

Well here's a pic with the rat's nest still in: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=35

And here's the pic of how to connect everything without a rats nest: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=230775

Hope that helps

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

with... that pic helps out. any help with the stupid cold start coolant injector thing? like how the hoses are connected?

blk87Turbo2

iTrader: (23)

The coolant line for the cold start assist starts at the water pump housing (near the coolant temp sensor) to the BAC, from the other side of the BAC to the top of the TB, then there's a return hose that goes from the bottom of the TB and goes into the top of the block.

Most people have to cut that last hose (the return hose) cause it's only a few inches long and near impossible to remove the clamps cause of the UIM being in the way. When I replaced that hose I used one long enough to "coil" under the UIM/TB assembly. That way it wouldn't kink, but would be long enough to allow me to pull the UIM manifold off without opening the cooling system if I didn't have to. Make sense?

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

^I have actually unbolted the throttle body from the UIM, and the UIM from the LIM in order to get underneath. This allows me to keep the thermowax hose clamped on, thus not worry about undoing any coolant lines.

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

yeah i had to cut it. ill do the same too. i dont like unbolting the throttle body from the upper manifold... if that plastic spacer/gasket goes im sure its a lot of money.

blk87Turbo2

iTrader: (23)

^^My sentiments exactly. Plus it's a bunch of extra unbolting (more stuff to lose).

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

long long weekend...

I got the motor in.

As of now i am bolting up the intercooler after triple checking some vac lines for the canister valve. Im pretty sure I have it right (crosses fingers)

Throttle cable adjusted and cruse contol cable. (way out of wack) looked like someone was messing with them.

1 Issue....

with the uim off i tried pressuring the fuel lines by just hooking the battery up and turning the key to the on position (where the lights in the logicon all light up)

the fuel pump never turned on. I tryed a booster box in case my battery died no effect.

I know all hondas turn the fuel pump on for a sec when the key is on to prepp pressure buy do rx-7's?

im gonna go check the fuel pump connector. the saftey man in the back of my head thinks i un plugged it for some reason...

so if i get pressure tonight and check/ smell for gas leaks im gonna fire it up tomorrow... im gonna follow the instructions on rotary ressurections web site. I would to it tonight but all the lube in that motor is gonna smoke and i need someone else there to start it while i check for leaks/ issues... pics to come

blk87Turbo2

iTrader: (23)

The fuel pump doesn't prime with the key on. You have to put a jumper wire in the yellow plug in the engine bay, with the key on. Then the pump will kick on. Just remove the jumper wire to shut off the pump. Easy stuff.

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

haha thanks. i was like wtf it was working when i took the car apart!

its what i get for working on honda's for 9 years. they all prime when the key clicks on....

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

SHE RUNS!

fired up and stayed running on the first try too!

any advice on bleeding?

i had her run for 45 min shut it off and it would not start back up... pulled the pump fuse and spun it over. put the fuse in and she ran did this 2 times

blk87Turbo2

iTrader: (23)

Bleeding what?

Fuel should be finished bleeding after the system has been primed and run.

The cooling system...I usually burp the big hoses and flick the small ones then run it with the cap off to let it circulate and work any remaining bubbles out. Having the heat on is a good idea while doing all that too.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

it sounds like its just flooding. Since your motor is brand new it probably has low compression which is causing it to flood. After you put a few hundred miles on it it should stop.

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

bleeding the coolant. what a pain in the ***...

ill try that.


as for the flooding
yeah that seems to be normal until the motor breaks in

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

-Got home from work and blead the coolant till I had no bubbles.

-I have a exhaust leak somewhere when cold. it sounds like its by the turbo. Hopefully its a easy fix as i know i properly torqed all the bolts.

-I have a solid idle at 1,100 rpm i have yet to adjust it or set the timing.

Is this normal?

Here is a pic. after the car has been idling for a hour. temp gauge goes to 75 percent. im used to honda where anything over 50% it starts overheating.




i got my temp gun and read up to 200 deg at the lower radiator hose and about 190 at the top.

Rotaryrockstar

I'm no expert but, that's higher than I'd feel comfortable with. I've had two rxs for 10 years and neither went above half except one time when the radiator cap was bad and blew coolant allover my engine bay. Good times... I still remember that smell...

I'm not sure what would cause that but I'm sure someone more qualified will comment soon enough.

BTW man, congrats... I've been following this and it makes me happy to see another 7 saved and in loving hands.

86rx786

Great build and nice find! I can't wait to see it all finished.

blk87Turbo2

iTrader: (23)

That looks warmer than it should be. When after you warm up the car, with the caps on, squeeze the upper radiator hose. It should be really firm. Make sure you have your heat turned up and on. If the hose isn't firm then your cap is probably bad (assuming you're not losing coolant somewhere).

Are you running clutch fan or e-fan? If you're running clutch fan, make sure it's engaging.

Obviously not all inclusive, but just some ideas.

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

new cap and thermostat was installed with the motor.

i got my temp gun and read up to 200 deg at the lower radiator hose and about 190 at the top.

i think the radiator should be cooling more that that, i suspect the fan clutch. everything else is new. lol

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

unless the timing is way off. i deleted the egr, acv, and vac pump. still have the cats untill i can afford a nice exhaust.

so many holes in the exhaust tho