Chillichinchilla

Used a dial caliper and the FSM in the areas, my housings have no more than .0015 warpage. So thats good, I checked around the housing and around the exhaust area I think it has .02 variance or so, but it doesn't state in the fsm that I should check that. But I don't thin I oversanded.

ALSO!: My apex seals are 7.01, 6.96, 6.98, MM standard 8 MM and lowest is 6.5MM according to fsm. I really dont want to buy apex seals, but I am leaning towards buying them. what do you guys think?

Chillichinchilla

can't edit, but I rechecked the housing, didnt rush this time, the whole housing is around 3.1490 and 3.1510 and combustion area is 3.1535 ( Nearing exhaust) Or already at exhaust on the outer edge of housing. Which is odd because i sanded that area the most :/. BUT! Its not a required place to measure in FSM soooooo, ill just shrug it off.

Dak

I would buy apex seals and springs. Also use FD corner seal springs.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

+1

If the rest of the rebuild parts are good, it's worth doing the above.

Chillichinchilla

Will do talking to RA right now. Noticed my corner seals are garbage now, so hoping to get a deal on OEM corner seals + RA Classic seals. Already got FD springs . I will still hand lap the sides of housings to get it even.

rxmiles

iTrader: (11)

Interesting

Chillichinchilla

In case anyone was wondering S4 and S5 6 ports are the same. Also bridge for lols.

Is it ok to use slight dirty irons? No one had the roloc discs around me, so I can't fully clean them, but I went over them with 1000 grit sandpaper, cleaned, brushed, used acetone? Its just surface discoloration I guess.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

As long as they are clean. And make sure the grooves in the iron for the O-rings are clean. The Dremel with a wire brush makes minutes of the work when combined with some carb cleaner.

In all of Chicago there's nowhere that sells Roloc or similar discs? Fastener stores around here have them in bulk at the front counter.

Chillichinchilla

I live in Chicago Ridge, and checked every store around me, they do have some "Roloc" competitors, but they are wayyy too abrasive. Side note, I was about to put the engine together yesterday, and I lost 1 side seal ugh, gotta wait until mazdatrix sends me a new one.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Always order 1 or two extra of:

-side seals: because if you mess up when clearancing and the seal won't work in another rotor groove, having an extra seal will be quite handy

-inner coolant o-ring: I've been halfway through a build and grabbed a brand new out of the gasket kit coolant o-ring and found that it was dry rotted and split. Luckily there was a spare but now I always keep two extras on hand

-corner seals: damn rubber plugs like to disappear

Chillichinchilla

Aaron, help me out here or someone haha. Now that you speak of missing things, I actually lost a corner seal spring. The FSM in the "Technical data" says protrusion limit is .50mm for the seal and spring. The new ones are at 1mm and definetly slide down to .50, they are at 1mm so I should be good there, but the chicken wire style spring that I am reusing to compensate for the lost spring goes to .60mm am I fine to use this, or should I order just that one damn corner seal spring. (PS the other 11 are the 3rd gen style (FD style) springs)
Thanks for everyone that is helping! If I am good to go on this corner seal spring, this engine will be together tomorrow! finally

By the way Aaron, a fan of your videos, watched them before I even signed up!

Also, am I fine using this as lube on e-shaft, plates: lubriderm No.105

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I hope that's a joke about the Lubriderm. Assembly lube, assembly grease or engine oil should be used on the eccentric, irons, bearings, under front cover stuff, etc. Then proper thick petroleum jelly to hold seals in place.

As for the spring, don't mix. Either use all wire springs or use all FD springs. The FD springs were developed to provide less wear on the corner seal as well as more even pressure under load. While I'm sure the engine would work, and it's highly unlikely you'd ever notice the one odd spring in the real world of a daily driven level build, you'll always know there's one odd spring.

Always keep spares.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

I think he meant Lubri-plate. Which I always thought was just a high quality white lithium grease.

Chillichinchilla

Whoops mistyped that, haha yeah Lubpri-plate is what I have and I actually did get 1 new corner seal spring, now I am awaiting on a stationary gear bearing.

Chillichinchilla

Ok. I need some more help here... As I was about to put the engine together. I was going through, double checking everything, grabbed my rotor housing and felt this little ridge like bump right in the middle of the rotor housing chrome. It extends 4 inches below the spark plug to the exhaust and then stops there. Its a ridge that is barely felt. I found no info on this problem except for the user "heretic" on nopistons forum. Now I want to fix this to prevent uneven apex seal wear and compression compromise. Anyone have any tips here? Definitely don't want to shell out another 300 bucks for resurfacing.

Chillichinchilla

Bump for someones expertise! Btw you can't really see the bump, but if I run a finger over I definitely feel it! Ive read a few threads where people sanded the housings a bit with high grit sandpaper, but I am skeptical on this

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Picture?

jjwalker

I know you said you can't really see it, but I am with Aaron, pics please?

Chillichinchilla

I already know what all of you will say, I just wanted to get an answer which I already know. Housings are trash. The shiny spot in the middle is a ridge pretty much all around the housings. Seems like it dissapears in the combustion phase, goes back in between the 2 sparkplugs and starts back up after combustion phase. I tried to sand it out but its not budging (a few people had success with getting minor bumps out this way) By the way the 2 streaks away from the shiny spot arent sanding marks... Its alllll blowby aint that something. By the way I did redline it while driving it home and it felt a bit underpowered I mean it felt like my first car the 130 HP hyundai tiburon was faster. So if anyone has s5/s6 housings, message me up!

Chillichinchilla

I am terrible with putting everything in one post haha sorry. So i tried to get a reading from my caliper on this (Turned it upside down and tried to edge it out) I can't even get a proper reading on it. I can feel it on my fingerprint, but if I run my nail over it, i cant feel any pump, put an apex seal on it and i can't see any light through it or feel a wobble. Just to put in perspective how tiny the bump is. I am sure I can just say its garbage, but just because the car ran before makes me have mixed feelings about this housing. I mean this car was just meant to be a cheap daily driver to and from work from the start.

jjwalker

I have the same thing on my old housings. I just grabbed one and ran my finger across it and that is actually a tiny depression in the housings rather than a "bump", thats why your fingernail isn't really catching it. It's so slight I bet it is practically immeasurable.

I won't say yes or no on that housing and wait for Aaron to chime in.

Chillichinchilla

Try to feel the top of the housing rather than bottom it may be a little bump there i think it may be sagging from overheating

Chillichinchilla

Nonetheless, I assembled the engine with those seeming as it ran fine before, set endplay it was right around .002 and put the front cover on this time the engine is sitting with everything on it horizontally, wanted to doublecheck the endplay, so I set the caliper on the hub bolt and I got no reading when pushing/pulling on the flywheel... I mean if I hit it with a little effort with a prybar, I can see it move, but it may just be the vibrations.

Ps. been too cold to work on the rx7

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you assembled the front stack horizontally, then the Torrington bearing may have dropped down behind the spacer. Zero end play would be a classic symptom.

The engine should be positioned front eccentric up until the front hub bolt is snugged down.

Based on those pictures, those housings seem fine, for the record. But blurry pictures aren't the best judge. Does no one have a proper camera anymore?

Chillichinchilla

Sorry, to be more clear about it, i actually assembled it vertically, i took off the front cover today and disassembled, the bearings didnt pinch... they are all fine so i put it back together and still 0. Keep in mind that when i checked the play when it was in mockup it was right around .002. I was just trying to double check the play with the engine horizontally when everything was assembled. I think something like the seals are holding the eshaft more stationary since its assembled.