Iron porting attempt 2 pics inside
07-30-05, 06:15 PM
#28
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
BTW like 10 peeps have asked if i went thru into the coolent area, NO that hole is for the EGR!!!!!!
well if thats a 4 i best keep practicing
well if thats a 4 i best keep practicing
07-30-05, 06:43 PM
#29
remember, its not how big you port it felix, its making the air flow that counts. those ports wil do absolutly nothing for power since i can see you only ported the end of the port. you have to reshape the whole dang ding dong dang port. just think to yourself... hey, would it be better if the air went in a straighter line rather than into a 45 or even 90 degree angle? try to not only ope the port, but simply rehape it. thats the name of the game. what your doing is just making it bigger which in the end, sucks.
Last edited by SirCygnus; 07-30-05 at 06:48 PM.
07-30-05, 08:01 PM
#30
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
i think that is paritaly true, but this is a copy of kahrens port that is making 195 hp at the rear wheels.. so i have to fear wid this port
07-30-05, 08:32 PM
#31
FWIW: The stock port TIMING is already good enough to do 200 rwhp. Work on airflow. Most of the time on a good port is not spent making it larger. It is spent making it flow better in the area where the port runner makes it's transition to the port window. This is something you can not see with a template. Port size is only half of it. I actually add material in some spots to my ports.
07-30-05, 09:25 PM
#32
Originally Posted by rotarygod
FWIW: The stock port TIMING is already good enough to do 200 rwhp. Work on airflow. Most of the time on a good port is not spent making it larger. It is spent making it flow better in the area where the port runner makes it's transition to the port window. This is something you can not see with a template. Port size is only half of it. I actually add material in some spots to my ports.
felix its not about cfm's hor how much airflow the port has, its all got to do with velocity. if i was to port my engine, i would look at it, then i would probobly add some stuff ( jbweld ) into the port at the areas where it forces the air to speed up slightly so that you get more air in there for every combustion cycle.
so i would actually only port it slightly in some areas.
07-30-05, 09:29 PM
#33
yeah man, no offense to Kahren but that port timing is a bit too much for the stock primaries, it looks as though it disrupts the air flow more than even the stock ports. smooth flow not huge ports is what it is about. plug up those damn EGR ports too btw! 
it's basically about how you want to setup the motor. huge ports increase top end power, mild smooth flowing ports gain all around power.
of course though someone will come along and totally disagree with me and flame me for it though.
it's basically about how you want to setup the motor. huge ports increase top end power, mild smooth flowing ports gain all around power.
of course though someone will come along and totally disagree with me and flame me for it though.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 07-30-05 at 09:31 PM.
07-30-05, 11:46 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by silverrotor
Your after pic looks familiar to me... Aaron Cake knows It better though...
Last edited by pr0digy; 07-30-05 at 11:51 PM.
07-31-05, 01:20 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by Karack
i know he does but what works for someone doesn't necessarily work for everyone.
the port would work but i guess i should take into consideration of what this engine is being built for. all out power?
the port would work but i guess i should take into consideration of what this engine is being built for. all out power?
I agree velocity is VERY important, not all large street ports are just hogged out holes........ you can do a big port with very mild "lift" in piston cam terms.
07-31-05, 03:57 AM
#41
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happy port, RB street port, but then i took it up and out a lil bit more..to my likeing, so "mild street port" (left is stock port right is ported on the 6th port pic)
Edit: did it with a dremel, takes a while but it comes out much better and easy for someone that has not done it before
Edit: did it with a dremel, takes a while but it comes out much better and easy for someone that has not done it before
07-31-05, 05:33 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by slip_N_slide83
happy port, RB street port, but then i took it up and out a lil bit more..to my likeing, so "mild street port" (left is stock port right is ported on the 6th port pic)
Edit: did it with a dremel, takes a while but it comes out much better and easy for someone that has not done it before
Edit: did it with a dremel, takes a while but it comes out much better and easy for someone that has not done it before
Did RB do this themselves or was it with a template? If template you sure it was RB?
07-31-05, 10:17 PM
#43
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keep practicing dustin.... along with keeping velocity in high priority, make sure that everything that you have done is smoothed out. Small points sticking up/out will heat up faster than the rest of the engine and will result in pre-combustion.
08-01-05, 10:29 AM
#44
Engine, Not Motor
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Felix, buy some damn templates already! 
Don't freehand for your first (or second) port job. Spend the $50 to buy someone else's experience, as all the vendors have a lot of R&D into their ports. You're into the oil ring area at some minor points. Not enough for it to matter, but it's something to avoid. When porting the primaries, there's no reason to increase the size of the bowl. If you do, you'll just run into the water jacket, and then it's time to bring out the welder...
silverrotor's primaries are just a slight bit larger then mine. Obviously, I don't recommend increasing your primaries that much or you WILL run into the water jacket. You need to heavily taper at the bottom, but not so much at the top. silverrotor's car idles quite nicely, with only a slight lope. Under boost it's pretty strong.
Don't freehand for your first (or second) port job. Spend the $50 to buy someone else's experience, as all the vendors have a lot of R&D into their ports. You're into the oil ring area at some minor points. Not enough for it to matter, but it's something to avoid. When porting the primaries, there's no reason to increase the size of the bowl. If you do, you'll just run into the water jacket, and then it's time to bring out the welder...silverrotor's primaries are just a slight bit larger then mine. Obviously, I don't recommend increasing your primaries that much or you WILL run into the water jacket. You need to heavily taper at the bottom, but not so much at the top. silverrotor's car idles quite nicely, with only a slight lope. Under boost it's pretty strong.
08-01-05, 02:48 PM
#47
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Dude......
1) I think you need a better Die Grinder Burr...
2) Next time to try it.. get a freakin DEATH GRIP on the die grinder, with BOTH HANDS, find a bench that is just above lap level and go VERY SLOWLY... especially when you get near the trace mark....
I sit there with the air hose running up my back and over my shoulder, left hand on bottom, Right hand on top with my right cheek on my right thumb and eyball down the diegrinder as i go...
Instead of moving my hands, I move my whole upper body... this goes back to my Air-Brushing days... its much easier to get a smooth line if you lock your wrists and arms and move your torso
When i get done with the die grinder part... most people think its already been smoothed.. and I've only ported three motors!!! (I went through a few junk housings first though!!!!)
Keep practicing bud... you'll get it!!
1) I think you need a better Die Grinder Burr...
2) Next time to try it.. get a freakin DEATH GRIP on the die grinder, with BOTH HANDS, find a bench that is just above lap level and go VERY SLOWLY... especially when you get near the trace mark....
I sit there with the air hose running up my back and over my shoulder, left hand on bottom, Right hand on top with my right cheek on my right thumb and eyball down the diegrinder as i go...
Instead of moving my hands, I move my whole upper body... this goes back to my Air-Brushing days... its much easier to get a smooth line if you lock your wrists and arms and move your torso
When i get done with the die grinder part... most people think its already been smoothed.. and I've only ported three motors!!! (I went through a few junk housings first though!!!!)
Keep practicing bud... you'll get it!!
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; 08-01-05 at 02:54 PM.
08-01-05, 03:37 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
make sure you war a mask and goggles too bro.
My uncle got a piece of iron stuck in his eye. And He HAD goggles on. He got it out. And can see fine. But that was after they dug the oxidized rust out of his eye. So be careful.
08-01-05, 06:47 PM
#50
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Originally Posted by Camrann
WORD.
My uncle got a piece of iron stuck in his eye. And He HAD goggles on. He got it out. And can see fine. But that was after they dug the oxidized rust out of his eye. So be careful.
My uncle got a piece of iron stuck in his eye. And He HAD goggles on. He got it out. And can see fine. But that was after they dug the oxidized rust out of his eye. So be careful.
Damn now I'm going to be paranoid.