Okay, as I am sure you can already tell, I am a newibe, so I am going to get my hello out of the way.

I'm Rich, but friends call me Corprin. Rounding the bend to 25, and still acting 16 with my El Camino (read: can't keep well enough alone) Currently reaching for the end of an 8yr stint in the US Army, as an MP (military police) It's quite ironic, because I hate cops more then any one occupation in the world. Oh well.... Prior to my utter brain fart of becoming a pig dressed like a bush, I was a chassis fabricator, engine tech, suspension tech, crew member, and all around shop beatch for Albert Mirko, of Mirko racing (Morgan Hill, ca www.mirkoracing.com) I worked for him back in the day of the little known NATCC. We also built and raced a couple cars in SCCA World Challange T2, now who knows what he is running. I am a welth of useless auto triva knowlege. I am also a welth of useless knowlege in general, but we'll discuss that later.

I am the proud owner of an '87 T2 which you can see in the pics below. I came across my car by chance, and I got her for a steal. One day while putting down the freeway in my hooptie AE86 I saw a red FC sitting on the side of the road. I stopped, only to find out that it's a guy I work with. I ask him if he needs help, and it turns out he has NO clue about how the wankel works. He said that it just started to loose power, then it just died. Frist thing I did was check the oil, DRY. I asked when the last time he had put oil in it, and he said, "about 2 months ago" I explaned that the engine burns oil normally to lube the apex seals, and I just got a dumb look.

Well I offered him $1500 for the car, with the dead motor, a pair of still in box Sparco Turino seats, new rotors, atkins 3mm apex seals, and a complete gasket set for rebuild. Well we got back from an overseas trip, and I didn't have as much in the bank as I thought. I told him I could give him $1k the next day, and the remainder on payday. He agreed, only to renig the next day by saying, "just keep the remaining $500, we are done" as he signed over the title to me.

I am happy because the car is in great shape, has 16" SSR's, and a set of nice seats still in the box worth $600 each. So, I look at it, as if I bought the seats on sale and got a free car.

The stock motor is DEAD, and I am too lazy to do a rebuild and all that jaz. What I did come across is a warehouser for the JDM engine import people. He happens to be a former MP with the Army (which I am) So he offers me the wholesale price on the JDM engine I need and want to make my car run again. Then I am taking my stock motor, all the goodies that came with it, to my local rotary shop for a build up (Atkins rotary) (port, paint, 3mm seals, blah blah blah)

I know that the JDM vs. USDM spec question has been beaten to death, and I have already learned on my own how they differ, so I am not going to ask that dead question YET again! (it's amazing what a search function will do for someone on a BBS)

Does anyone know a web site out there that has a write up, step by step on how to do the swap. I am just looking for the wiring diff's and such. I am planning on running just the complete JDM motor, and I would like to keep my wire harness as stock as possable. Anyone have an idea, or addy that will help me out?

Currently on the car...
SSR 16x7.5/8 (haven't pulled them off to verify)
ACT clutch
those really nifty windshield washer LED's (getting ripped off, damn I hate rice!)


Currently waiting in my wall locker to be installed on my new baby...
Apex'i SAFC
S5 turbo/manifold
Greddy Profec-B EBC
Greddy type I turbo timer
HK$ SSQBOV w/kit
Walbro 225 fuel pump
Sparco Turino seats
Sparco cam lock 5pt's
Sparco suade steering wheel
momo ball shift **** (been in every car I have owned since age 17)
momo grip pedals (the rubber is crap in WA where my shoes are always wet)
CD player
Racing Beat down pipe
autometer ultra-lite 20psi boost gauge (traded two army PT shirts for)
autometer ultra-lite EGT w/probe

Next in line to be bought...
auto-power race bar
upgraded turbo (t04b .60 p-trim is looking tasty)
FMIC (thinking the greddy kit)
coil overs (JIC, or Tien)
GOOD strut tower braces (3-4pt)

yeah, that's about it for now, now... on with the pics!!!

 

pic 1

 

pic 2

 

pic 3

 

bahhh damn newibes... forgot to upload the pic!!! d:

 

weeeeeeee

 

sounds like your set to have a nice car

 

Corprin, I suggest you print this when doing the swap. Its probably all you are going to need (but a haynes is useful for some pics).

http://members.shaw.ca/turborex/fc3s/tiiremoval.txt

 

The JDM and US engines do not differ THAT much. You can put a JDM engine in your car without having to swap any of the wiring. There are just some unused plugs you will be left with (mostly emmissions stuff that japan doesnt need *I believe* Im not totally familiar because I ended up getting a rebuild from atkins as well, although I researched jspecs quite a bit).

If you do wanna make em all fit, I see 2 choices.
Pull the auxilary parts off of your current engine, and put them on the jspec.
Or you can rewire the hacked harness that should come with your Jspec to the current harness at the firewall.

Personally I would prefer swapping components because then it will still be possible to pass smog or whatever you need to do, and you wont have a big rats nest of reattached wires.

 

Hey Rich ............ lick my *****, bic.

 

I don't have to worry about smog, my car is regestered in a smog exempt area, so most of the crap is getting yanked. I was under the impression that the motors were damn near identical, but what I am going to do is, pull my stock motor and set it next to my J-spec one, and look at the diff's. Thanks for the help guys, and thanks for that write up dr0x.

DK, don't make me dent your car... hor!