xUnKnOwNx

so i have a 88 TII and i brought it over to karack for an engine rebuild. i thought it would solve the problem of the hot start issue but it still does it. im not bashing on his work or anything, he did a great job. im happy. i just wanna fix this problem. he couldnt really find anything wrong with it, i brought it over to another shop to have em check it out, but at that time, it didnt do that hot start issue. sometimes i just keep pumping the gas pedal and it starts. other times i have to remove the egi fuse to get it to start. the new engine has about 1200-1300 miles on it. karack changed the airflow meter, and also gave me this lil wire or switch to bypass the fuel thing. (forgot what it was called). he mentioned it could be the fuel pump or air pump. dont remember which. he also mentioned it could be the relay. i recently just had a tune up done. got new o2 sensor, spark plugs and spark plug wires. gonna get the fuel/air filter replaced. he also mentioned i have a clogged cat, which i will be replacing next week. any ideas guys? ive searched btw.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Sounds like the low compression that is usually associated w/ rebuilds that reuse rotor housings. If its still doing this after 2000 miles, then there might be a problem. Until then I'd just keep using the fuel cut switch.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Did the injectors get serviced? Have you checked the water thermosensor for accuracy? Your sparkplugs are relatively new and cleaned off? Your battery and starter are turning the engine over fast enough?

In 88 and prior cars, used rotorhousings are almost always going to be in the threshold of flooding, rebuild or not. Unless you told the builder to drop a cool grand on new ones, or 500 on really nice used ones with no wear, then this just is what it is...some cars flood all day every day, some cars only do it intermittently, some cars rarely ever flood.

IF it becomes a major problem you might look into wiring up an injector delay/cutoff circuit to mimic what was done to the ECU in the 89+ cars (which coincidentally, almost never flood). Over in the passenger kick panel are 2 larger orange plugs, and on one of those plugs are 2 thick black/yellow wires that supply power to the fuel injectors. Putting a switch inline with these wires (or designing a circuit to delay power for 1-2 seconds after cranking somehow) will make for better response than a fuel pump switch (there is stiil fuel in the rails and lines). I have done this on a couple of problematic cars in the past.

xUnKnOwNx

yea, karack cleaned the injectors, and i just had new spark plugs put in last week.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Well, I would give it another 1k miles before you pass final judgement, but after that, it pretty much is what it is.

You might try running a tank of premix to see if it helps...premix enhances the coating of oil on the housings, which helps seal small gaps between the housing and seals, making for slightly better compression (a few psi). Sometimes this few psi can put you above the threshold of flooding.

Also, you should try applying throttle and holding it before hitting the key to start...this will let more air into the engine, which will combat flooding. Some cars start trouble-free this way, others are not as happy.

idsigloo

if it's a stock ecu it could still be flooding from fuel. isn't there an adjustment screw over on the passenger shock tower to change rich/lean?

88RX7T2

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/looking-car-has-hot-start-problems-499744/page3/ read page 3 and on, Hailers finds why flooding happens when HOT and gives you a solution for the problem.