Interest in a rear strut bar or hatch bar?
06-02-04, 12:55 PM
#1
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
Interest in a rear strut bar or hatch bar?
I've still got a couple FC rolling chassis' lying around and I'm interested in taking on a project while I'm in between big projects. I've made a number of hatch bars and rear strut bars for my supra and all have been sucessful. If I made one for the FC, either a rear strut bar (mounts in factory bolt locations between strut towers and rear-seat mounts, triangle bar, unhinged) or a hatch bar (again, bolts to factory locations, connects strut towers and then bars cross ahtch area), how much interest would there be?
I'm not going to list prices or anything...I'll probably sell the bars off the site as I don't want to cause any conflicts with forum rules, but they'd be made for this community.
Opinions? Suggestions?
I'm not going to list prices or anything...I'll probably sell the bars off the site as I don't want to cause any conflicts with forum rules, but they'd be made for this community.
Opinions? Suggestions?
06-02-04, 01:01 PM
#2
Rotorphile.
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If you can make a bar like the CP racing one that actually bolts to the strut towers (NOT just the speaker towers) and to the floor with no gap for the carpet... yeah, I'd be interested.
What kind of timeline are you talking here? I was just about to place an order for a CorkSport bar, but I'll put it off if you make a worthwhile design.
What kind of timeline are you talking here? I was just about to place an order for a CorkSport bar, but I'll put it off if you make a worthwhile design.
06-02-04, 01:10 PM
#3
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
The bars I make have no considerartion for asthetics. If you drive a 2 seater, the fiberglass bins will need two holes cut in them or removed to allow the bar to mount propperly. Rear panels will also have to be cut for propper mounting. If you have a 2+2 the rear seats will need to be removed. The bar will go between stock bolt locations on the strut towers, then two bars will travel down to the rear seatbelt bolt lacations on the tranny. The lower bars will be connected right above the tranny tunnel.
Much Much better than the CP bar.
Much Much better than the CP bar.
06-02-04, 02:08 PM
#6
Compression Tester Guy
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I like the idea and I applaude your efforts, but do you think you could design one that doesn't require cutting/losing the bins? I wouldn't mind punching a hole between the bins, but I don't want to have to hack up my interior too much. Some of us just aren't as hardcore.
-John
www.TwistedRotors.com
-John
www.TwistedRotors.com
06-02-04, 02:14 PM
#7
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
The rear panels would need a 3" hole cut in them in front of the mounts, and the bins would need a 1.5" hole cut in them. That's the all the cutting that you would NEED. Bars will come with gray padding which will cover the holes in the bins. If I go with the design that bolts directly to the strut mount, the padding owuld cover that 2" hole as well. Hacking of the interior isn't all that big a deal, and is only slightly noticeable....it's just easier to strip it.
Youcould just remove the bin lids...the bars would completely clear then.
Youcould just remove the bin lids...the bars would completely clear then.
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06-02-04, 02:17 PM
#8
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally posted by Makenzie71
similar to this...
If you're willing to cut a 2" hole in the speaker towers I can design it to bolt to the actual strut tower.
similar to this...
If you're willing to cut a 2" hole in the speaker towers I can design it to bolt to the actual strut tower.
It looks like the CP design is more ideal. I say this not because I'm there almost every weekend, but because I believe it to be a better design.
06-02-04, 03:16 PM
#9
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
^yeah...and I appreciate the insight.
Perpendicular might be better in theory, but when there's no sturdy means to bolt the bar down there, then you lose the effect. My design bolts to heavy factory mounts inteded to prevent a 100lb mass from escaping should the car come to a sudden stop. I'm considering designing the bar to bolt directly over the strut mounts which would be far stronger and more stable, but would require cutting of the metal...which a lot of people are unwilling to do.
Perpendicular might be better in theory, but when there's no sturdy means to bolt the bar down there, then you lose the effect. My design bolts to heavy factory mounts inteded to prevent a 100lb mass from escaping should the car come to a sudden stop. I'm considering designing the bar to bolt directly over the strut mounts which would be far stronger and more stable, but would require cutting of the metal...which a lot of people are unwilling to do.
06-02-04, 03:37 PM
#10
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Cusco already makes one for the FC...it's 2 pieces, sold seperately. First is the standard rear strut bar that connects the 2 rear strut tops and runs through those strut towers (cutting necessary obviously). The next piece is known as the V-brace and connects each end of the rear strut bar to make a V that mounts on the hatch floor. The only downside to the V brace is that it further cuts down on luggage space back there since there are now pieces blocking the middle of the strut bar down so you can't put anything under most of the strut bar area. Make sense? I'll get a pic once my car comes back from the motor swap.
06-02-04, 03:38 PM
#11
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Cusco already makes one for the FC...it's 2 pieces, sold seperately. First is the standard rear strut bar that connects the 2 rear strut tops and runs through those strut towers (cutting necessary obviously). The next piece is known as the V-brace and connects each end of the rear strut bar to make a V that mounts on the hatch floor. The only downside to the V brace is that it further cuts down on luggage space back there since there are now pieces blocking the middle of the strut bar down so you can't put anything under most of the strut bar area. Make sense? I'll get a pic once my car comes back from the motor swap.
06-02-04, 03:44 PM
#12
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Cusco already makes one for the FC...it's 2 pieces, sold seperately. First is the standard rear strut bar that connects the 2 rear strut tops and runs through those strut towers (cutting necessary obviously). The next piece is known as the V-brace and connects each end of the rear strut bar to make a V that mounts on the hatch floor. The only downside to the V brace is that it further cuts down on luggage space back there since there are now pieces blocking the middle of the strut bar down so you can't put anything under most of the strut bar area. Make sense? I'll get a pic once my car comes back from the motor swap.
06-02-04, 03:48 PM
#13
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Originally posted by jon88se
Cusco already makes one for the FC...it's 2 pieces, sold seperately. First is the standard rear strut bar that connects the 2 rear strut tops and runs through those strut towers (cutting necessary obviously). The next piece is known as the V-brace and connects each end of the rear strut bar to make a V that mounts on the hatch floor. The only downside to the V brace is that it further cuts down on luggage space back there since there are now pieces blocking the middle of the strut bar down so you can't put anything under most of the strut bar area. Make sense? I'll get a pic once my car comes back from the motor swap.
Cusco already makes one for the FC...it's 2 pieces, sold seperately. First is the standard rear strut bar that connects the 2 rear strut tops and runs through those strut towers (cutting necessary obviously). The next piece is known as the V-brace and connects each end of the rear strut bar to make a V that mounts on the hatch floor. The only downside to the V brace is that it further cuts down on luggage space back there since there are now pieces blocking the middle of the strut bar down so you can't put anything under most of the strut bar area. Make sense? I'll get a pic once my car comes back from the motor swap.
I'd be interested in a tower/floow brace as well, keep us posted.
06-02-04, 04:00 PM
#15
Originally posted by jon88se
Hehe, it wasn't me - I tried loading the post once and the forum gave me an error message...I simply refreshed and this is what I got
Hehe, it wasn't me - I tried loading the post once and the forum gave me an error message...I simply refreshed and this is what I got
Also, would it make any difference in the mounting if the car doesn't even have the bins?
06-02-04, 04:23 PM
#16
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No as the rear V brace runs parallel with the rear strut brace. This isn't a brace that extends to the floor by the bins, it mounts at the rear strut bar in 2 points (each end) then connects with a V to the hatch.
06-02-04, 04:26 PM
#17
Originally posted by jon88se
No as the rear V brace runs parallel with the rear strut brace. This isn't a brace that extends to the floor by the bins, it mounts at the rear strut bar in 2 points (each end) then connects with a V to the hatch.
No as the rear V brace runs parallel with the rear strut brace. This isn't a brace that extends to the floor by the bins, it mounts at the rear strut bar in 2 points (each end) then connects with a V to the hatch.
06-02-04, 04:31 PM
#19
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If you make it bolt to the body like that, you won't sell very many. I want to get a rear strut tower brace, but I also do not want to make my bins not functional. I have the battery in one, and a sub in the other.
If you made one that bolts to the struts themselves, and made it bolt to the body directly below it. I would buy it.
If you made one that bolts to the struts themselves, and made it bolt to the body directly below it. I would buy it.
06-02-04, 04:55 PM
#23
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
Well...even though I'm sure it's against the rules (please delete this post if it is)...
I could make a 3 pt Cusco knock-off for $110. The design above I could make for $150. A simple brace between the towers would be an even $75. All of these would require a 1.25" to 1.5" hole cut in the tower as I've decided to go with mounting it atop the strut it's self....much more stable and a much simpler design.
Also, my designs are un-hinged.
I could make a 3 pt Cusco knock-off for $110. The design above I could make for $150. A simple brace between the towers would be an even $75. All of these would require a 1.25" to 1.5" hole cut in the tower as I've decided to go with mounting it atop the strut it's self....much more stable and a much simpler design.
Also, my designs are un-hinged.
06-02-04, 05:56 PM
#24
Based on the picture, your bar looks to bolt to the outer forward edge of the tower.
Origionally posted by Makenzie71 The bar will go between stock bolt locations on the strut towers
It looks like the CP design is more ideal. I say this not because I'm there almost every weekend, but because I believe it to be a better design.
Even with this bar proposed to be at an angle, the mere fact that it actually attaches to the suspension mounting holes makes it better than the CP IMO.
-Chris
06-02-04, 06:48 PM
#25
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i do want a strut bar!!!!! one that can bolt straight down to the floor, i like my bins
pm or email me with the details and when you can get it to me,,, i want it asap thanks
john
pm or email me with the details and when you can get it to me,,, i want it asap thanks
john
