Installing a NOS kit is a simple procedure to install the nitrous tank, a couple of injectors (also called nozzles) and a number of solenoids, routing a few meters of pipe (or pipes) from the tank and nitrous a fuel line to the solenoid coils and thesolenoid valves of the injectors, and then fit a few switches to arm the electrical circuit, which attracts the solenoid to the switch hvaing it activated either at full throttle or using a switch to activate it. im going to use a dry system as it will be efficient enough for what i would need. and if the correct jet is chosen it is safe and effective way of increasing horse power.

 

i found a decent dry nos kit thats adds 75 horses at wot when activated for around 600, so i think imma do it , after a little more undterstanding of the nitrous system and ill be just fine i believe if done correctly

 

typical short air intake that puts it near the stock location, cone filter, RB headers, 6 port sleeve inserts seem like a good idea too http://www.pineappleracing.com/6-por...sertspair.aspx

 

How are you planning on getting enough fuel into the engine to compensate for that dry shot? Wet kit is in your best interest if you want the engine to last through its first nitrous pull. 75 may be a bit aggressive for the first time.

 

I shall be waiting for your rebuild thread.

 

make sure to get a huge NOS sticker to add more HP!

 

honestly, this is the most rediculous thread I've read in a while (and this is coming from someone just past the newb level). OP, you need to do a lot more research on things. you might as well get yourself a t2 block for 1k instead of nitrous. babies get bottles, real men get blown (forced induction). lol. turbo is just more worth while imo, you have the power all the time and don't have to keep buying your power in bottles. my 2 cents. why are you attempting an na build and not turbo?

 

This is going to end badly

 

o its built just wanna get some nitrous, haha its funny how this affects things... this thread mainly is mine in the first place as i dont care where it goes but ive been flopping ideas for a while now....... and i plan on doing as many mods as i can without removing the engine until it needs a rebuild. then it will be ported and get light wieght rotors, with lower compression, afterwards will then be turboed, unless yall think i can turbo the na high compression s4, which everone says is a bad idea too and i wouldnt even go high boost, kinda seems like everything is a bad idea anymore..

 

look up aaron cakes turbo 6-port project (project tina iirc). turbo 6-ports can be monsters but there are a lot of things that can go wrong if not done correctly or not considered. it would be easier for you to just get a t2 block and rebuild it before it goes in, sell (or part) the na and related stuff depending on condition. easiest/cheapest way to go turbo so its your call. you'll need another exhaust for turbo engine though. 2.5" I think? or the stock t2 one.

 

 

**** an NA Intercooler! This is a TRUE Cold Air Intake for an NA. Car is a half bridgeport - four port engine.

Window AC Unit running on a gasoline generator mounted in the hatch.

The chilled air is piped directly into the intake via PVC piping.









Oh yeah - we did get around to dyno-ing the setup. You actually LOSE 10 HP due to the restriction of the PVC. The laughing, pointing, giggling, and general ***-clown-ery is WAY worth the HP loss tho.

 

ha ha, that's epic!

OP, if you run a dry shot with no way to tune the car for the increased oxygen levels you'll blow your motor up on the first run. You are more than capable of turboing an na car.

 

Beating the hell out of the engine till it goes is not sound financial planning. When the engine goes in all likelihood you are going to damage internal parts and have to replace them.

Money you would spend on N/A mods instead put in the bank and save for a turbo swap.

 

ive read all of project tina stuff and understand the turbo systems completely just been told no way ill blow my engine and so forth so im hesitate, i mean i found a whole turbo kit just for a rx7 to convert from na, but idk lol... may just save up to buy a whole new turbo car and give this one to my kid when he old enough.

 

yea man, headers replace the reactive exhaust manifold and the no. 1 & 2 pre-converters, all that bullshit goes away and maybe there's a metal recycling center close to you that will pay you for those three pieces
check this thread... https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/has-anyone-ever-experienced-issues-intake-after-freeflow-exhaust-installed-927533/
im planning on getting corksport power series exhaust very soon. my stock exhaust is sooo shitty, this is cat back only. than i want to get headers and a race pipe, i already have intake. after these upgrades you wont necessarily need fuel tuning to run the car but leaning it out and having it tuned will definitely add power and actually enhance gas mileage. once i get the free flow exhaust i plan on getting a rtek 2.1 ecu, this isn't haltech but something much cheaper but works for an NA motor

 

LOL, that's awesome!

 

yea i have race piped already and intake and what not but with all these mods proper tuning is a plus? and what are benfits of the pinaple sleeves vs the stock ones. o yea i aleady forgot about the intercooler and nos lol.

 

Keep in mind that it is even easier to blow an engine with nitrous than turbocharging/supercharging. It is just the nature of the beast that it is fairly trivial to toss way to much oxidizer without enough fuel.

You would NEVER want to use a dry kit unless you have a full standalone that understands nitrous. For simple stock ECU applications and a 50-75 shot, you will want a WET kit and use about twice the fuel jet that you would for a piston engine to start.

I still don't recommend it, and I certainly don't recommend barging into a turbo NA setup as others would either. Unless you have a few thousand dollars to toss away, leave it as it for the time being.

 

just gonna clean up the intake area get a cold air box that vents out of the cabin for true cold air(i guess but id say it still warm) gonna get racing beat headers to complete my exhaust, switching from s4 upper intake mani to s5 upper intake mani, may consider pinaple sleeves, getting new rims and tires, repainting it since everyone hates the paint job, imma do something less all over, and going to fix my rear end clunking whatever it may be, starting with a enw driveshaft and going from there. going to reatin the na motor in this form till rebuild needed and port it then buy a new turbo 2 complete car. but im not saying i want start a new thread with some more riduculousness lol

 

jk of course....I thought I'd be a wise *** on this one lo!

 

This is incorrect, turbochargers are centrifugal compressors driven by a turbine that spins from hot expanding exhaust gases flowing through the blades, thus, alot of heat is conducted through the turbocharger assembly into the intake of air as the turbo compresses it. The purpose of an intercooler is not to help cool the turbo, that's the oil lubricating system's job, the purpose is to cool the compressed air to around ambient after the turbo heats it up several hundred degrees before it is mixed with fuel for combustion.

And Cold Air Intakes true purpose, does not create a more direct path for air flow, they often add restriction, but is relieved by a freer flowing filter. Short Ram Intakes have a more direct air path than factory, but take in air that is often near the exhaust manifold, and losing a bit of power from a less dense charge. Cold Air Intakes, try to separate the hot air (key word, is try, they don't usually) that's in the engine bay, to cooler air near the rad, or for some better ones, in the bumper. The simple fact is, they are more restrictive, why do you think so many NA builders on other cars go to ITB's (Individual Throttle Body's), because theirs little to no restriction before the throttle plates, which most of the time, makes more of a difference than having slightly cooler air. Intake manufacturers boast all the time that their intake is the best, and yada yada yada, most of the time, an Intake is an Intake. The reason why you see soo many Cold Air Intake Ads in magazines is because Cold Air Intakes, generally produce about 1 - 3 hp more than a Ram Intake, so everyone looks how to get the most power, and see that this intake gives me 9 hp, but, the cold air, gives me 11 hp, so they go for the cold air, even tho its only 2 extra hp, and generally costs $60 more, which you could easily have gotten by just cleaning, and gapping your sparkplugs correctly.

 

^ this guy knows whats up. aaron cake, as always, providing you with good advice and insight as well.

the ngk spark plugs most stores carry for FC's are pre gapped. is there any gain or need to check the gap and adjust them?

 

Not necessarily, but carbon build up on plugs can greatly reduce the plugs ability to complete a hot, intense spark, which our oil burning rotaries are famous for. But not everyone has NGK plugs, and even if you do, its not a bad practice to check the gaps while you have them out of the car, if their off, replace them.

 

If you do the s5 intake swap you will need the lower intake manifold also. Cant use just the top half. Keep on searching!