intake air temperature sensor
#3
I'm a boost creep...
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For a turbo, that sensor is quite important. The ECU retards timing as intakes temps increase, to avoid detonation. The ECU's default 68degF is a lot cooler than the actual air temp when boosting hard, which is when detonation is most likely.
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primitive screwhead
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Cool, thanks, and yes, Ted, I would have to agree with 88IntegraLS.
Unhooking my temp sensor did nothing for my idle jumping between 1300-1600. Neither did swapping it with one from an N/A (which I realize is probably different since the resistor you're supposed to use when checking that part of the system is of a different value for na vs TII.)
Oh well. Back to the drawing board.
Unhooking my temp sensor did nothing for my idle jumping between 1300-1600. Neither did swapping it with one from an N/A (which I realize is probably different since the resistor you're supposed to use when checking that part of the system is of a different value for na vs TII.)
Oh well. Back to the drawing board.
#6
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Originally posted by 88IntegraLS
OT, but Ted, you have some fine taste in avatars.
OT, but Ted, you have some fine taste in avatars.
Things I do when I get bored.
I have less than two weeks in CZ, so I'll be changing the avatars once a day when I can. I have like 30 of them still waiting to be used, so I hope you guys like them.
-Ted
#7
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how can you tell when its bad? do you get an error code? i had my codes pulled and im getting a 10 and 11, both of which i believe have to do with the intake temp sensor. where can i find a new one?
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#8
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Originally posted by RustX7
Unhooking my temp sensor did nothing for my idle jumping between 1300-1600.
Unhooking my temp sensor did nothing for my idle jumping between 1300-1600.
#9
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****how can you tell when its bad? do you get an error code? i had my codes pulled and im getting a 10 and 11, both of which i believe have to do with the intake temp sensor. where can i find a new one?***
Whoa there! You have a real problem. A 10 and an 11? The 10 is the sensor in the AFM and the 11 is the one mounted in the intake elbow or dynamic chamber depending on turbo or n/a.
It's highly unlikely that both are kaput. The best thing to do is to erase all the codes and start over again. IF you see both again......then go to the ECU and pull the applicable plug off and ohm out the wires to each sensor one at a time. The resistance values are in the online manuals at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com.
Before doing that....make sure the plug is secure on the AFM and that the two wire plug is secure on the sensor on the afm. Sorry, I don't have a series five or I'd tell you just where the one is on the engine. You say youi have a 90 model.
Whoa there! You have a real problem. A 10 and an 11? The 10 is the sensor in the AFM and the 11 is the one mounted in the intake elbow or dynamic chamber depending on turbo or n/a.
It's highly unlikely that both are kaput. The best thing to do is to erase all the codes and start over again. IF you see both again......then go to the ECU and pull the applicable plug off and ohm out the wires to each sensor one at a time. The resistance values are in the online manuals at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com.
Before doing that....make sure the plug is secure on the AFM and that the two wire plug is secure on the sensor on the afm. Sorry, I don't have a series five or I'd tell you just where the one is on the engine. You say youi have a 90 model.
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What's a a-spec ECU???? Just one more thing I don't know to go on my long list of things I know nothing about.
EDIT: Oh! American. Then everything should work right...I think. The motor should not matter whether American or jap.
EDIT: Oh! American. Then everything should work right...I think. The motor should not matter whether American or jap.
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