clokker

iTrader: (2)

OK...so the problem wasn't with the filter at all.
I'm guessing that the two new brackets just positioned the AFM properly.
Now you can ditch that OEM air feed since it's doing nothing whatsoever.

Evil Aviator

I know, I was just having fun, and I think he may have not known that a drop-in K&N filter is available. As for trying to wedge a cone filter in the stock air box, there would be no point in that, even if it fit.

Woohoo! Now I'm even with Rush Limbaugh, and on the heels of Al Gore!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

How are you getting any pressure to activate your Auxilary ports?...suggestion..wire them open,(just as a TEST)..go for another spin..does it Operate Better Now in the Higher RPM's?.

flatblacksleeper

i have the vacuum line hooked up, i have the bonez race pipe, had a line tapped into it, so my ports should be working

flatblacksleeper

low rpm air suck sounds choppy, the higher smooooooth air suck,lol

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

That sounds about right.


So the only 'problem' that you're having is with the sound of it?

flatblacksleeper

yeah, runs great

i think its the mass air making the noise.....the vane door

Evil Aviator

The stock air boxes on most cars are designed to reduce intake noise. It will make that noise even if you remove the AFM and install a standalone EMS. If it really bothers you then make a "cold air" box around the filter. The box will not silence the noise as much as the stock box, but it will help some.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

and give you more power!

only caveat is, you have to cut into the body to get cold air to the filter. If you install one of thouse headlight ducts, the aerodynamic profile of the FC will start pulling air out of the duct until you go above a certain speed! (methinks it is either 60 or 120).

Evil Aviator

It only gives more power if it is designed correctly.

That is not necessarily true. It all depends on how you go about the process.

[QUOTE=Roen;7429024]If you install one of thouse headlight ducts, the aerodynamic profile of the FC will start pulling air out of the duct until you go above a certain speed! (methinks it is either 60 or 120).[QUOTE]
That is one of those wonderful internet myths. The small amount of dynamic pressure produced will never counter the ram air going into the duct.

The two main problems with typical headlight ducts are that they are too small, and/or do not work well when the headlight is raised.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Evil Aviator;7430231]It only gives more power if it is designed correctly.


That is not necessarily true. It all depends on how you go about the process.

[QUOTE=Roen;7429024]If you install one of thouse headlight ducts, the aerodynamic profile of the FC will start pulling air out of the duct until you go above a certain speed! (methinks it is either 60 or 120).I would think that as long as you have a cone, which flows better than stock, and a means of ensuring that the air it receives is close to ambient temp, it will produce more power than stock.

How would you suggest getting air to the filter? Build a box with a cutout and use the stock feeder tube to flow air into the box?

I thought the aerodynamic profile of the FC details which way the air flows as it interacts with the body at speed?

Evil Aviator

That would be true assuming that the custom air box, plumbing, and filter have a total flow that is better than stock. The problem is that a lot of custom air intakes are not designed properly, and have more restriction than stock, which negates the higher flowing filter, and sometimes even results in lower engine performance. If you think about it, since the stock car already has an ambient air intake, temperature will be a constant, so the goal of a custom intake would be to optimize the pressure (or in non-engineering internet forum terms you would want to reduce the restriction).

For a stock non-turbo engine, I recommend just sticking with the stock air box. For a turbocharged engine, you can simply build a deflector type shroud to keep the radiator discharge air away from your cone intake. The stock feeder tube is a bit small and convoluted for a high-performance application. A good functional high-performance intake looks something like this:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faqpics/roadrace/ep01123ib.jpg

When I uploaded that picture several years ago, I intended it to help out forum members, but it appears to have confused them more, lol. It simply shows the pressure vectors around the car while it is at speed. While you would want to try and place your various ducts in the high pressure areas for best results, even the lowest pressure areas are not capable of sucking the air backwards and starving a ram air inlet.

ForgottenMindset

The k&n handbook doesn't specify a hp increase for fc's. For the money, its a waste anyways


I worked at advance auto up till about 2 hours ago

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Um.....that's a picture of a filtered ITB setup.....something that's beyond the scope of this discussion.

The only restriction I can think of is air starvation, if you use a box, such as the Mariah Box, and cut a slot for the stock air tube to feed air into. Put a high flowing cone filter like a K&N or APEX'i and you should have a decent cold air cone intake.

Evil Aviator

Just because it is beyond the scope of your comprehension doesn't mean that it is beyond the scope of this discussion.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

[rant]

I thought we were sticking intake upgrades using the stock throttle body. If intake was completely free, I would've brought up ITB's a long time ago. Still, from what I've been told, the best part of our induction system is the throttle body, and an ITB on a stock engine would probably be good for only 5 hp.

I'm still unsure how much a filter impacts the ITB setup. A lot of S2000 guys say that their filter robs upwards of 40 hp from their ITB setup . While that number is a bit high to be believable, alternatives do exist such as mesh screens or running open ITB's. While that last option isn't recommended for the street, a lot of S2000 guys run it without problems. I'm not as brave, and can't wait until I hear one of them complain about sucking in a large rock that made its way into the engine bay, or something similar. Still, no filter restriction does mean max power.

[/rant]

Evil Aviator

Look at the diameter of the intake pipe and the divergent design into the air box on that Mazdatrix picture. Do you see any of our forum members making something like that for their "CAI" projects? No, it's almost always some really long piece of small diameter piping with multiple bends, or it's some restrictive air box that has tons of "heat shielding" around it and very little access to inlet air. Granted, I'm not a big fan of dryer duct on intake systems, but at least they designed the majority of it pretty well.

I have reviewed independent testing data on various engines, and it seems that an unfiltered carb tends to flow a little better at lower rpms, but a well-designed filter seems to increase flow at higher rpm's. I am sure the particular application makes a lot of difference though. While I am not very familiar with the S2000, a 40hp loss sounds like a very inflated value on an engine that I assume only produces about 300bhp.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I don't see how a filter would increase flow at higher rpm's...i mean, isn't a filter a restriction, even on an ITB?

I still think using a box similar to mariah's, possibly made of ABS plastic for better heat shielding capabilities and extending the stock plastic air tube into the airbox would make for a decent cold air setup on a stock induction system.