Ok I finally got my idle problem fixed, FD fuel pump 720's put on and a Rtek 1.7 installed. I have a 2.5" turbo back exhaust, I was boosting 10PSI and Pulling really strong, after installing these boost has droped to 5-6 PSI in first and 8 in 2nd and 3rd and doesnt seem to be pulling as hard. The guy I took the car to who fixed the idle said that my turbo may be going and I may have been running lean so the turbo was boosting a little more. it seems to have more power in the lower RPMs but seems to be strugling in high RPMs. WHAT YOU GUYS THINK???
Thanks

 

Well, im not too keen on chips for these cars. But it sounds like you need some tuning done, especially since you changed both your injectors and fuel pump. Or at least get it on the dyno to see where your A/F is at.

 

It's probably running pig rich IMHO. You need to get it tuned (read: leaned out)

 

yep, too rich now.

 

same with my car, it runs so rich that it's a slug....

but still pulls off high 13's....

 

HMM to rich.......Do you think going to a 3" exhaust setup will fix or help the problem???
Thanks

 

tuning tuning tuning....

i have a 3inch turbo-back exhaust and like i said, it's a slug but still quick....

after tuning i'm hoping to drop a few 100ths of a second....

 

yeah, i have the same problem here. But, i have a few more upgrades than you. I have an fmic, upgraded secondaries, walbro 255, aluminum tid, full 3" exhaust turbo-back, the rtek 1.7...i actually have a bung for the wideband that needs to go in, and an air/fuel controller. just need to fix this other electrical thing before i do. but, i am very sure that youre running rich, i sure as hell know i am. its just awful. but, its better to be rich and untuned than lean and untuned. probly try to put that wb and controller in next week...see what happens. but, im sticking with running pig rich. usually with just the bolt-on mods for our cars, it starts to run rich immediately...especially no cat or emissions equipment.

Ryan Shannon.

 

my car runs so right, my FCON throws it into a loop when i start my car, even if it's been sitting for 30mins shut off, i'll let it idle for a few mins and it runs so rich that it starts smoking, and ofcourse it's all gas....

then i'll back out and leave a big puff of black smoke, hehe, gas....

my AF guage when i start it like that is pinned to the right at rich....

 

Hey, I've seen this Rtek 1.7 term thrown around. Is it just a modified chip someone burned?

 

what type of boost controler are u running, with those 720's and a top mount you should be able to run like 13-14 psi on the top mount intercooler, if you havea boost controler up the boost and it should lean it out a little

 

Im new to the turbo stuff, how does the wideband work(ill search as well). Im looking at a 3"DP with 2 Bungs some one is selling.


I dont have a boost controler, I drove tonight and it seems to be lil better isnt bogging as much pulls a lil more but still seems a bit off. Im gonna go back to stock FPR and 3" DP/mid pipe and see if that helps a lil.
Thanks for the help guys.

I Hate Ricers: go to www.pocketlogger.com all the info is there

 

I have the same problem with my rtek 1.7 & 720's. I assumed that a boost controller will bring it back up. Too rich now at 5-6psi. Hopefully it'll run sweet back up to 9-10psi. I was also very dissapointed on the first test drive after the rtek mod, it was slower than stock. Anybody know if a boost controller is reqiured with the rtek/720's??

 

If the you run rich with the RTEK whats the point really good is it, with the stock ecu and bigger injectors it runs rich as well.
Im going to contact Rtek today and ask about this problem.

 

5.5 psi is stock, no? Why are you upgrading fuel then if the car is already a bit rich in stock form? Of course it's going to get all messed up. 720s (and rtek 1.7) are for cars with more power than yours has and need the fuel. boost controller is needed in the sense that you need a car that requires much more fuel to run 720s and a rtek.

 

stop using "Chips" and go standalone. You cannot really expect to install a chip and the car magically run on any setup you could amagine. And I wouldn't run 13-14lbs on a top mount and stock turbo. Thats just stupid. 10 at the most. Most will say "yeah but a standalone is one thousand dollars" yeah well so is a engine rebuild. Which one do you want to do first?