88 Turbo II here.

I have been having starting issues altely and I began to notice a HUGE leak form the pulsation dampener. Should I just replace it with a S4 N/A banjo bolt? I have seen my other N/A Rx-7 catch on fire from a failing PD before. Not a pretty situation... but it really didn't have starting issues when it leaked. But I am having huge fuel issues with pressure in the lines. Could this leak in my PD be causing it?

Also where does the PD usually fail? In the center where the small philips head screw is? Or does it fail around the rim of it? I need this car running by tomorrow and I can't get my hands on the correct banjo bolt to make the fix anytime soon. I am thinking about JB Welding the whole bastard shut for right now.

Oh yeah, and the fuel is literally pouring out the PD. That's how bad it is!

 

If fuel is pouring out of the PD...

#1 you shouldn't even be attempting to start the car.
#2 yes fuel pressure would be radically low

The PD can fail anywhere in the diaphram. The most common failure is because someone saw the stop screw loose, and tightend it up too much or too little. Too much and the diaphram rips at that screw, too little and the diaphram rips at the edges.

To do it right, replace the PD with a new one (they generally last 100K miles or 10 years), or many people (but not myself) recommend the band aid of a bolt.

 

just swap it out for another one. pulse dapeners are the mane cause of rotary engine fires. just...... dont turn on the car. and i think you can just replace a bolt or something. its really an easy fix. its not the end of the world.

 

I would spend your time tonight on trying to get ahold of a loaner car.. you REALLY don't want to be driving with a fuel leak of ANY sort, ESPECIALLY from the PD.. I wouldn't try to band-aid it. Either get a new PD, or get a banjo bolt (i'm not getting into a debate). Just to let know, Summit Racing is pretty quick about shipping the banjo bolt, if you go that route.

 

Think about how stupid you'd feel if you looked back on your car burned to the ground because you "had to have a ride by tomorrow".

 

Don't drive the car until you get it fixed properly kthx

 

... I'm not going to call you personally an idiot, because that's against forum rules, but I can say that you've emitted one of the stupidest ideas I've heard in a long time.

JB Weld and that plastic cap aren't going to hold against 50+ lbs of fuel pressure. At least not for long.

DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR.

Take a taxi, take a bus, rent a car, whatever. Trying to drive it like that *WILL* end up with an interesting melted engine bay, at best.

If you post a WTB in the classifieds, I'm willing to bet you can get someone to overnight you a banjo bolt, or at least a working PD, tomorrow, and you can have it on Friday. Or, talk to one of the rotary shops tomorrow and have them overnight you one.

It's not worth it. Seriously. Rotary exhaust temperatures, stream of gas down the side of the engine... fireball.

-=Russ=-

 

I forgot I had a spare PD when scavenging my garage today. Swapped it out, problem fixed. It's completely driveable now.

Yeah JB Weld. What was I thinking. Just to let you know, I tried it with JB Weld on the old one. Had my bro crank the car while I looked if it showed any leaks. Well the fuel found a way through a weaker spot in the JB Weld, broke it and sprayed gasoline right in my eye. I got owned. Lesson learned.

Thanks guys!

 

Good. That's a much better solution than you were planning on. I would still suggest finding a new pulsation damper or going with the banjo bolt mod - "spare pulsation damper" would tend to imply it was an old one as well, and it won't have that much life left in it.

Also, if you're screwing with the fuel system, it's best to play with it by using the fuel pump test jumper - the yellow thing over on the passenger's side of the engine bay. Turn the key on, stick a paperclip or other conductive device between the two connections, and the fuel pump will run. With a stone cold engine, this lets you test the fuel system under operational pressure without any significant ignition sources around. I *always* test my fuel system after doing any work that involves having it apart.

I'm glad you proved that JB-Weld doesn't fix everything.

-=Russ=-

 

Is it possible guys to replace the pulsation dampener on a 86NA without removing any of the manifold? if removal of the manifold is needed, how hard is it? thanks.

 

No, it's not possible, I dont know of any tool that could fit while being strong enough to break the bolt loose. You have to remove the intake. It's about a 30 minute job for most people, maybe an hour if you're slow.

 

Yea. The pulsation damper is on there TIGHT, especially after having been on for 15+ years.

I would actually allocate more time if you haven't done major work on the car and/or have the emissions rack intact. With emissions removed and knowing what you're doing, half an hour for the job is doable, but if you still have the mess of vacuum lines and aren't too comfortable under the hood, figure a few hours.

-=Russ=-