I finished putting my 88 SE together last night and went to start it and got a crank no start issue. Spark plugs are bone dry. I confirmed that I have fuel to the engine and that the fuel pump is working properly. The engine started right up and ran fine on starting fluid. Since I put this car together from boxes of parts and got it as a rolling shell I was wondering if it had an injector driver pack originally like my 88 TII did. Didn't see one listed in the FSM but figured I' ask. Just trying to narrow down where I should go with this. I did check grounds, especially the ground under the UIM. I haven't pulled the connectors from the injectors and applied a noid light to each injector but I can if need be.

 

88 was the hairy year where they did or did not use the resistor box. What color were your injector tops?

 

They're reddish pink

 

do you have the MAF hooked up?

 

yes I do. The car runs just fine on starting fluid

 

i had a similar problem on my 88 gxl when i swapped it to turbo.. what i found was that there was a large vacuum leak. large enough to not be able to pull the flapper door on the MAF open via vacuum, so the fuel pump wouldnt kick on. try getting a helper to hold the flap open and try starting it

 

I tested for power at the second rotor' s secondary injector and I'm getting 12V to the connector on one pin with the key in the on position.

 

If you have red top injectors you do not need the fuel resistor box

Since your at your injectors, bring the motor to TDC according to the front pulley, take out the CAS, and with your test light, hook up the clip to the positive, and the light to the ground part of the injector and give the CAS a spin, the light should flicker as the CAS sends a ground signal to the injectors

 

Did you double check your grounds?

 

I have noid lights and when cranking the noid light is not illuminating what so ever at the second rotor's secondary injector plug.

 

I have checked the grounds but I feel like I'm missing something. I had a GSL-SE about 15 years ago do the same thing and it ended up being the way ground on the top of the engine. I checked with a flashlight and my ecu ground is secure and is grounded to the bolt holding the mounting bracket for the dynamic chamber towards the left side of the engine. I wonder if this ground is not sufficient and that it needs direct contact with the engine. I'm willing to pull the uim and secure the ground elsewhere.

 

why checking secondaries? If it won't start its your primary injectors, your secondary injectors don't come on until the car goes past 3500RPM, other then that the ECU doesn't fire them, thats why your not getting anything out've you light

 

I'm going to pull the intake this morning anyway. I'll test them at that point with the noid light and see what happens. I want to recheck the ecu ground that's under there anyways. I do have a spare CAS that I can hook up and spin by hand to check for injector clicking with the key in the on position. It has to either be a faulty ground, ecu or bad injectors. That's where my mind is going.

 

Check the ground on the firewall to housing. You should be able to reach it without removing intake. You can listen for the injectors with ignition on and turning your engine by hand.

 

I checked the ground from the firewall to the trans bellhousing. It's good. I'm heading out in a few to start in on the car.

 

Good luck man!

 

Cleaned and resecured the ecu ground and no change.

 

disconnect the ECU connector and measure the resistance on the injectors that way. if there's infinite or a very large amount then your injector clips may be bad. if it's fine(~14ohms), apply 12v in quick bursts to see if the injectors make an audible click, if not, they are probably seized from sitting in your box and need to be serviced.

 

That's a great idea. The injectors could very well be seized. I hadn't considered that option thoroughly honestly, figuring that they should still be good. But who knows with electronic parts that have been sitting for some time.

 

i want to fix my last reply; apply ground to the injector terminals at the ECU with the injector harness disconnected and the ignition key on.

 

Ended up pulling the upper intake manifold again and tested the injector pulse with a noid light. There was pulse when cranking. I took a longer look at the injectors and after pulling them and testing them, I found that while the secondary injectors were functioning properly, the primary injectors were stuck. After about an hour of working on the injectors, I got them freed up and measured their resistance and it was within spec per the FSM. I put the intake manifold back on and the engine fired right to life. It was such a struggle because everything tested good the entire time, but the injector wasn't pulsing. Wish I had considered it as an option sooner. Thank you all for your help!

 

happy ending

 

Ok usa!

 

It's easier to just jumper the yellow two pin fuel plug that keeps the fuel pump running when the ign is on. Plug is near intake runners.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...erence-671004/

post #3, pic #5

edit: never mind. will read whole thread next time. SMH

 

You're good pfsantos! I actually learned a lot undertaking this crank no start issue. All I've ever had were TII's and first gens. I've never had an NA FC and this was a really good learning experience. I'm happy to take any advice so that I can quickly diagnose and repair issues that present themselves.