sen2two

iTrader: (10)

ok, so the fuel pump is brand new and i can hear it running (inline walbro 255). and i can actually hear the fuel running through the lines on the motor. also, i can see the fuel pumping back into the fuel cell. its in my trunk. so i know the fuel is getting through to everywhere... i swapped the primary injectors because i thought this was the problem. i "checked" them to see if they worked by putting a 12v source to one prong on the injector and grounding the other. i heard them click. so i figured they were good.

if my injectors are fine, and fuel is pumping just fine to everywere, what else could it be?

i know the injectors are not firing because the spark plugs are brand new and i pulled them after cranking for a little, and they are still brand new. not a drop of fuel on them. also, i got it to start while spraying starting fluid...

arghx

iTrader: (3)

are the plugs firing? If they're not, you may have a crank angle sensor issue.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

the plugs are firing..

like it says above. the only prolem is the injectors are not injecting fuel. everything else is A OK...

HAILERS

What year car? It matters.

A digital meter at the ECU would tell you if your getting voltage to the injectors. Get one.

On a series four the EGI INJ fuse feeds the injectors and the coils. The EGI COMP feeds the ECU. You have spark so the ECU is getting power and the CAS has to be good because you have spark.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

What kind of EMS are you running?

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

its an S5.

i got the motor in a front clip and its the stock ECU but pre-tuned by Pan-Speed.

HAILERS

Only one EGI fuse on a series five, so you KNOW it's good because you say you have spark. Next thing to look at would be if the injectors are getting power by pulling the plug off the ECU and seeing if the injector wires have power with key ON.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

I think I read somewhere that the solenoids can click but that doesn't necessarily mean the injector is opening.

I think the easiest way would be to take the UIM off, leave the CAS connected, key ON, ziptie injectors to the rails and remove and rotate the CAS gear and observe them to see if they spray.

Edit: I just remembered you have an N374 ECU...if you have another laying around (NA would work) I would swap and check. A lot of people including myself have had problems with them. The chipped ones (RE-A/Panspeed etc.) usually work though.

HAILERS

That's what's called a Splendid idea!

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

i forgot to add. i tryed 2 other ECU's (stock) besides the Pan Speed one. im pretty sure these injectors are bad.

i'll just buy some new 550's and see what happens. after 20 years of use, its about time they get replaced anyways...

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

This is exactly what not to do. What if you have a wiring problem and then your new injectors don't work either and you are out lots of money? Test to see if you are getting 12v at the ECU for each injector as stated by hailers above, or use the method suggested by khanartist. Simply throwing money at the problem leaves you broke, and your FC still not running.

TYko

check for voltage at the injectors, check resistance accross the injectors, check ground at the injectors, and if you have an ocisiscope then check injector pusle

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

LOL, isn't it? haha...I think my car would have been set on fire already if I hadn't learned this trick from you

HAILERS

Naw. Like they say above, go to the ECU. Pull the plug off with the fuel injector wires. Key to ON. See if the fuel injector wires have batt pwr or not.

Don't have a meter? Go to RS and buy a cheap DIGITAL meter. Know not how to use it? Read the instructions and then go to the battery and put the positive lead on the positive post of the battery and the negative lead on the negative lead of the battery. You should read battery voltage. If you do, you have the meter set up right and now need to go to the ECU and pull the plug off that has the fuel injector wires.

Find a good ground point for the negative meter lead, like the studs that hold the ECU in place. Then probe each fuel injector wire in the plug with the plug off the ECU and key ON.

It sounds like you have a wiring problem probably caused by using the JDM harness imho.

A jpg of the small ECU plug on the far left is attached showing the four fuel injector wires. You are looking into the WIRE side of the plug when viewing this plug.

Don't get fooled into buying a TEST LIGHT from the auto store. Wast of money. NOt the way to do business.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

two of the prongs gave power, not the other two. so im pretty sure that means my primarys arn't getting power and my secondarys are...

where to look now?

thanks for the help. i ******* hate wiring... we swapped in a stand alone on my brothers corolla before to fix a wiring problem. lol...

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

Good info, I should check on my car.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

now you inspect the status of the injector clips, and the harness leading up to the primary injectors

HAILERS

Ok. Let's be clear about this. You should have been looking for fuel injector power on the PLUG not the ECU's jack.

If you saw power on the PLUG but only on two of the four wires on the left end of that plug, what you say makes sense. Sort of.

All four of the fuel injectors get power from the same source unless someone has buggered up the harness.

See the jpg attached. See the elect plug called X-11. That plug has two seperate sources of power to the fuel injectors. It's the two black/yellow wires. Even if you depin or cut one of the B/Y wires, the other will feed the fuel injectors. All four fuel injectors at that.

So if you actually were reading the voltage at the PLUG of the ECU, and only got voltage on two of the wires, it would mean to me (if the wiriing was correct) that two of the injectors have their plugs off the fuel injectors or the b/y wire at two of those injectors is not making contact.

If it was the ECU plug that had power on just two wires, then it helps to know what two wires. The primary wires are colored .....light green for the front primary and light green/black for the rear primay. The other two wires are the secondary wires.

In other words the primary wires are on the top row of that plug and on the far left of that plug when looking into the wire side of the plug. They'd be the last two on the top row. See the earlier jpg and the one attached. Light green........light green/black.

Wiring is nothing but a piece of pipe with electrons flowing thru it instead of red hydraulic fluid.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

i think i may have checked the wrong 4 pins at first...

you said to check the "small ECU plug on the far left". but in the diagram it has 26 pins. wich it is on the far left, but is the largest of the 3 plugs. the center being the smallest.

so just to be perfectly clear. i checked these 4 and got no power at all...

obviously i didnt check the ECU itself. but the plug that plugs into it.

HAILERS

************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** **

I screwed the pooch when I said the small plug. I meant the plug you have in the jpg. All four should have had power if the key was to ON and the EGI fuse was good and the Main Relay is pulling in.

The wire colors for those you show should have been ...light green........light green/black.......light green/red........light green/white.

If the EGI fuse is good........main relay is pulling in........then the next thing I'd do is look for the plug called X-11 in the passengers foot well and pull it apart to see if batt voltage is on the Black/Yellow wires in it. The black/yellow comes directly from the MAIN RELAY.

Like I mentioned in a post aboe....the power starts at the EGI fuse.......goes to the main relay.......if the main relay pulls in it goes to the plug X-11.......passes thru the X-11 and goes to all four fuel injectors........goes out of the fuel injectors to the four wires on the ECU plug (26 pin plug you mentioned).

Main Relay is near the Trail coil assy. It has two elect plugs. If you pull off the small two wire plug, then turn the key to ON, you should be able to reconnect the two wire plug to the harness and feel the main relay pull in...click. If you feel the relay pull in thats fine.

Spark plugs firing means the EGI fuse is good and that the ECU is getting power. Just not the fuel injectors for ?????????? unknown reasons. If it's getting spark it also means the MAIN RELAY is pulling in.

Fuel injectors work by the ECU pulsing a ground on those four light green wires we've been talking about. But it does no good to pulse a ground on 'em if they don't have batt voltage on the fuel injector.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

OK, so i checked the main relay, and it clicks just fine. so now i should check the x-11 plug.

maybe i should mention im using the RHD engine harness and front body harness. i did a RHD conversion if that changes anything... maybe the wire color would be different. and i know for SURE that one of the plugs that go to the "fuse box" are different.

maybe you have a real picture of the x-11 plug so i can compare them to see if i might be different. also, maybe the black and yellow plug is different also...

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

I believe all the pin-outs for the ECU are in the fuel and emissions section of the FSM (FAQ). It also gives you expected voltage values for ON/ACC/idle.

HAILERS

I don't have a jpg of the plug. I'd wager the wire colors for the power to the injectors is B/Y though.

That plug is on the harness you just installed on the engine. That harness is referred to as the EM harness.

That's why if you'll go back and look at the jpg of X-11 you'll see one half of the plug is in the F or FRONT harness and the other half of X-11 is part of the EM or emissions harness.

Seeing as how none of the things I post cost a cent and you can ignore any of it you want, I offer this advice..............If you ever do a turbo to non turbo car swap, use the original non turbo harness on the engine. It's so much simpler and works just fine with small adjustments. Fewer adjustments than you'll make with the RH drive EM harness into the non tubo.

rotorgo

I was chasing similar injector issues when trying to get my car up and running. Had spark, fuel, injectors tested good, turned out the AFM was jacked. my .02

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

the main reason i used the RHD harness was the car i swapped it into did not have a harness to start with. also, the ECU needed to sit on the opposite side. the RHD harness are different from the US harness.

hopefully i can find the x-11 plug and fix it. from what you have stated. this is the last problem. and has to be it. so, if it isnt giving power there...what could it be. and if it is working just fine. injectors?

i usually keep the NA harness when i do turbo swaps. but didnt really have the option here...