WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

Okay, a lot of people have been helping me get my engine in shape *cough*Hailers*cough*Wayne88N/A, and their assistance has greatly paid off! My rebuilt, mildly ported engine started for the first time today!!!!

The problem is that it won't stay running, i've successfully gotten it to start three times, the first time was extremely short (~5seconds), it just reved up to about 3k RPM, and shut down. The second time i got about 20 seconds of play time, i was able to control throttle a bit, and then it died. The third time was pretty much the same as the second, giving me a grand total of 45 seconds of running on my new rebuilt engine...

before i got it to start each time, i had to pull the plugs, blow everything out, and then squirt a bit of oil into the plug holes, then it would start, after it died, it would just crank, it wouldn't start up again (although it sounded like it wanted to turn over).

any good suggestions for keeping it running? and is it safe to keep the RPMs @ 3000-4000 if nessisary?

Thanks!

repost_police

keep it more like 1.5 to 2k

Parastie

Check the compression and for vacuum leeks. Also, your time could also wrong.

alwayssideways

sounds like time .. do you have any throttle response at all .. if not most likely timing

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

Parastie - I'm assuming compression will be low, since the rebuild only has about 45 seconds of run time on it. I'm pretty sure the timing is functional, as i did have some throttle control for the brief time it was running. I timed it by the CAS driven gear divet and the yellow mark on the pulley.

rotariesrule

did you put larger jets in the carb? it could be jetted too big. quit putting oil in the plug holes. i have never had to do that on a rebuild. i usually coat the rotor housings with vaseline during the rebuild, though. no more oil you are killing the plugs.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Wrong section perhaps? Or is he running a carb'd 13B in his '86 GXL? Anyway....

For vac leaks, gently hold the AFM flapper open while cranking and see if you can't get it to start, no go there, check timing. If that still doesn't work and it continues to flood, replace plugs/etc, if it STILL doesn't work. Push start it.

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

Rat -definatly not carbed... EFI for me I'll do that in a few minutes, i'm running to walmart to buy a new timing light, since mine is dead, i figure that maybe the visual alignment isn't right (I think maybe ReTed suggested that he sometimes can't get it to work that way??), so i'm going to try that.. if it doesn't work, push start seems like the way to go..

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

bloody stores in central PA.. the only timing light is ~75 bucks, and I can't afford that right now... i'm tearing apart my AFM, since i'm not gettnig a consistan reading... and since i took the cover off, i've discovered that two of the solder connections (to the pins) are cracked... not good

jthompson02

Im not sure if anyne has told you yet but a freshly rebuilt engine is going to run like poo. It probably wont idle for a while, youll have no power and your compression is gonna suck, thats what the break in period is for. If its a TII engein your supposed to keep it boost free unitll about 1500-2000 miles, then you gradually take the RPM's up. Id say that after 3k miles your good to go, but some people will tell you 2.5, I give myself the extra 500 miles just in case

87RX7TII

Yeah take it easy on that engine, dont rev it above 3k until the car is past 300. Well thats what I tryed to do anyways and my car is still slowly building power at 1500 miles

You might want to try using the cruse control cable to keep the car running. anybody correct me if your not supposed to do this but try to fasten it open about 1/8 of the way so when it starts the idle will be close to 2k.
without using that method my car would stall out on me until I got a chance to tune it.

P.S. dont drive it for awhile.. just let it sit in the driveway idling when you first get it running.
I let it burn 1/8 tank of gas just sitting.