Well me and a friend finally finished up the conversion tonight. It involved going to 5 lug conversion using T2 parts, new bearings, pads, stainless steel brake lines, RB toe elim. bushings, GTUs suspension (Thanks again RarestRX ) and of course, uprated wheels/tires. The car definetly is much more responsive and the suspension provides much more feedback. The brakes I cant comment on yet because the pedals still a bit spongy probably due to not getting all the air out of the system. I cant push it for the first week but doing a small slalom the car definetly handles much better. Seemingly, the more I turn in the more grip the car shoots back at me. I think after next week, inspecting everything and getting an alignment and bleeding the brakes again, I can give you guys a more conclusive review.

 

So I take It the rear Is not all over the place anymore? How were the old bushings to the DTSS? Mine were severly rotted beyond recognition.

 

My bushings had 110k miles on them and they werent too bad. The outside had split up a bit but they werent falling apart. The rear definetly feels much more planted now but to be honest, I was taking turns really slow. I'll post up again in about a week and let you know how it goes with some more "spritied" driving

BTW- I dont think I would take the rear apart for "just' the dtss bushings. Just my opinion.

 

new polyeurathane bushings (Energy Suspension) for the entire car are only about $100 and are recommended. If you are doing it..... do it right. Easy install and the rear toe eliminator bushings really make a big difference if you push the car hard in the corners.

Put on some better pads up front also. I would recommned HAWK HP+ pads as they are only about $50 a set (for the front) and really blow the doors off of the stock pads (if that is what you are running).

Every time I've converted a car from 4 to 5 lug setup the brake M/C has taken a dump on me and I've needed to replace it. I've even had air trapped in the proportioning valve so you may check there when bleeding the brakes if they are not firm.

Until your brakes work 100% don't drive the car IMO.

-GNX7

 

Funny you bring up the m/c because thats been on my mind since last night. What do you mean by the m/c "taking a dump" on you? Its crossed my mind because even after bleeding the brakes a couple times and the SS lines, the pedal feel is still spongy. What do you think is a good upgrade from the stock m/c? Would a 929's m/c work without modifications or am I better off just going with the T2s m/c? Thanks

 

I cant wait till I start working on my suspension this winter, my car needs it desperately. Gives me some inspiration.

 

I wish I could work on my car this winter... problem is its 4 hours away.... I miss my car!

 

lol yea in the end it was a lot of work, and theres still a lot of things that need to be worked out, but it was worth it Good luck guys.

 

You will need to get the Vacuum pump / brake bleeder kit. They cost around $30 for the whole set.

You do not need anyone to help you. All you need is a full bottle of brake fluid and a flare nut wrench, 8mm. Assemble the vacuum kit as shown on the instruction guide. Make sure that your fluid res. is full. Insert the hose onto the bleed value and open. Fill when nessesary, never let it go dry. Then vacuum the air/fluid...start from the right rear (the furthest first), finishing at the front left, drivers side. DO NOT LET THE FLUID REACH THE VACUMM PUMP ITSELF. Check the pump res. everytime. The entire system should take you about an hour or less (I always go around twice).

This tool is great for the brakes and the clutch. I change out the clutch fluid every 12k miles.....takes about 2-3minutes to do.

Once everything is assemble and the wheels on...take it out on a sprint. (You will want to settle the entire braking system IN A SAFE AREA) The first sprint get up to 60-70mph, hit the brakes hard w/o locking them up. Do this 3x. Then let the brakes cool for a minute or so. Then go off and test out the brakes on low speed stops and corner entering.

You should now...stop on a dime.

 

Well I took it for a pretty hard drive today and the difference is amazing. I can turn in/exit turns at much much higher speeds then before. I can accelerate very much earlier in the turn then before pracitcally full throttle while naturally feeling exactly what the rear is doing. The car feels very solid and planted now. I think dollar for dollar, you cant perform better mods to your car at one time (conversion, bushings, brakelines). I dont think my m/c is giving up (not while all the funs just getting started ) because the pedal pressure increased a bit today, just needs one more bleed imo. But the 929 m/c idea still has my attention. I'll get to have my fun with the brakes after wens and post some pictures for you guys

 

This tool works OK... but it's not the greatest. I developed a pressure bleeding system that works far better. ROCK solid pedal, but not practical for those without access to compressed air.