Inexpensive rotary short blocks?? Need a new motor...
08-22-07, 01:38 AM
#26
^^^ Very true.
Although a reman still has used in-spec parts more of them are new, like a stage 2 or 3, and like a stage 2 or 3 a reman cannot be had for $1100
That is a pretty cool site though, that guy will do anything for buck lol.
Although a reman still has used in-spec parts more of them are new, like a stage 2 or 3, and like a stage 2 or 3 a reman cannot be had for $1100
That is a pretty cool site though, that guy will do anything for buck lol.
Last edited by sharingan 19; 08-22-07 at 01:48 AM.
08-22-07, 02:36 AM
#27
Looks like I need to clarify a few things for the reading/comprehension impaired:
1) I am not here to hold hands or spoon feed. I am dispensing free, accurate technical information based on years of experience with no compensation. If it comes as slightly harsh to you that should be considered the price you pay for said free, accurate advice.
2) I beat Ernst's $1100 price all day long..my base build is $1000, with a 12 month UNLIMITED MILE warranty. He was matching my 1000 base price there for a while, but I guess he wasn't making enough so he adjusted his prices. And, its a written warranty that gets honored if the time comes, unlike many other companies (not speaking of him, but builders in general).
3) rebuild/reman/new/used. New engine = all new parts inside...nothing reused. Reman and rebuild are the same thing...some new part content, some used part content. Used = not a rebuild by anyone, simply an old OEM engine. Japanese junkyard (jspec) engines fall into this category as well; they are simply a bit less used than the US turbo engines.
4) you DID NOT find a "reman" turbo engine with tranny and accessories for $1600 or whatever. You found a JSPEC JAPANESE JUNKYARD USED turbo engine. As in...built in 1990 or whatever, sat for several months/years, pulled out and shipped to us.
5) Idle threats about "you won't get my business if you don't talk to me nicer" won't get you anywhere. I have plenty of work at most all given times, so I don't have to kiss anyone's *** to eat. My work reputation speaks for itself...these people posting in support of me are not doing so because of my charm or handsom looks, they are doing so because I have likely done them a favor or work at some time...perhaps built an engine, answered a tech question (or a few hundred), sold them some cheap parts, etc.
That said, I am a nice guy in person but I don't have time to baby talk newbies on an internet forum. If you want to be hand held then go to one of the 2 or 3 thousand dollar engine builders who pay a nice lady with big **** to answer your questions with a smile and a wink. IF you want quality work done at the best prices in north america with no bullshit involved you come to me. I'd have it no other way, and most of my customers say the same thing.
1) I am not here to hold hands or spoon feed. I am dispensing free, accurate technical information based on years of experience with no compensation. If it comes as slightly harsh to you that should be considered the price you pay for said free, accurate advice.
2) I beat Ernst's $1100 price all day long..my base build is $1000, with a 12 month UNLIMITED MILE warranty. He was matching my 1000 base price there for a while, but I guess he wasn't making enough so he adjusted his prices. And, its a written warranty that gets honored if the time comes, unlike many other companies (not speaking of him, but builders in general).
3) rebuild/reman/new/used. New engine = all new parts inside...nothing reused. Reman and rebuild are the same thing...some new part content, some used part content. Used = not a rebuild by anyone, simply an old OEM engine. Japanese junkyard (jspec) engines fall into this category as well; they are simply a bit less used than the US turbo engines.
4) you DID NOT find a "reman" turbo engine with tranny and accessories for $1600 or whatever. You found a JSPEC JAPANESE JUNKYARD USED turbo engine. As in...built in 1990 or whatever, sat for several months/years, pulled out and shipped to us.
5) Idle threats about "you won't get my business if you don't talk to me nicer" won't get you anywhere. I have plenty of work at most all given times, so I don't have to kiss anyone's *** to eat. My work reputation speaks for itself...these people posting in support of me are not doing so because of my charm or handsom looks, they are doing so because I have likely done them a favor or work at some time...perhaps built an engine, answered a tech question (or a few hundred), sold them some cheap parts, etc.
That said, I am a nice guy in person but I don't have time to baby talk newbies on an internet forum. If you want to be hand held then go to one of the 2 or 3 thousand dollar engine builders who pay a nice lady with big **** to answer your questions with a smile and a wink. IF you want quality work done at the best prices in north america with no bullshit involved you come to me. I'd have it no other way, and most of my customers say the same thing.
08-22-07, 02:49 AM
#28
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Rotary Resurrection gives out great FREE advice and has helped me a lot in the past.
He gets an A+ from me. (I couldn't be more impressed with the amount of his time hes putting into this thread)
He gets an A+ from me. (I couldn't be more impressed with the amount of his time hes putting into this thread)
Last edited by snowball; 08-22-07 at 02:57 AM.
08-22-07, 03:45 AM
#29
Also, I just read that garbled mess of a post midway up the page and have a few things to add.
Where is rx7world in this post? Is he here giving your *** advice? What about the other builders? I think not. They charge more than me, and they give out less advice than me. Why would you want to sackride them with this being the case? You want to pay more money for the same thing you can get here just because you got your feelings hurt on an internet forum, be my guest, sounds like you are still the one on the losing end of the deal.
I am not purposely trying to be rude, but you have to understand...most users of this forum barely comprehend english and so you have to be overly blunt and clear to get your point across through these people's thick skulls. You yourself are sitting here telling me that things are available at a certain price when I know full well that they are not...either you are mistaken about what you are buying for said price, or you are mistaken about the price itself. IF these deals were out there, I would not be getting told that I work too cheap, and staying so busy. You're not the only person who can operate a search engine on the internet, so if there were better deals out there, others would have found them.
Again, short of a friend doing you a favor or a shady guy working out of his kitchen floor that won't be around in a few months when you need them, I AM THE CHEAPEST OPTION FOR REBUILDING ROTARY ENGINES IN NORTH AMERICA, meanwhile my work is well reputed in the community, more so than many major shops. I've been in the game since 1999, building engines since 2001. Not a lot of shops can say that, much less smaller builders such as myself.
You claim to have "read bad things" about me. I would love to see *legitimate* examples of this...not something that was shown to be inaccorate or unreasonable later on, or "he built a bad motor for my friend's dad's dog's brother, but I dont want to say his name here" which is most of what you'll be able to find...meaningless, unsubstantiated bullshit.
I have had people come from all over the US to get work done here. They can easily pay for shipping/transport and still come out way ahead of what others charge for just a rebuilt/reman block. Right now I have a 94 from cincinnati here. I have had people bring cars from maine, new york, florida, kansas city, michigan, etc. and I have done engines from washington state, california, hawaii, montana, just about every state in the country for that matter.
Where is rx7world in this post? Is he here giving your *** advice? What about the other builders? I think not. They charge more than me, and they give out less advice than me. Why would you want to sackride them with this being the case? You want to pay more money for the same thing you can get here just because you got your feelings hurt on an internet forum, be my guest, sounds like you are still the one on the losing end of the deal.
I am not purposely trying to be rude, but you have to understand...most users of this forum barely comprehend english and so you have to be overly blunt and clear to get your point across through these people's thick skulls. You yourself are sitting here telling me that things are available at a certain price when I know full well that they are not...either you are mistaken about what you are buying for said price, or you are mistaken about the price itself. IF these deals were out there, I would not be getting told that I work too cheap, and staying so busy. You're not the only person who can operate a search engine on the internet, so if there were better deals out there, others would have found them.
Again, short of a friend doing you a favor or a shady guy working out of his kitchen floor that won't be around in a few months when you need them, I AM THE CHEAPEST OPTION FOR REBUILDING ROTARY ENGINES IN NORTH AMERICA, meanwhile my work is well reputed in the community, more so than many major shops. I've been in the game since 1999, building engines since 2001. Not a lot of shops can say that, much less smaller builders such as myself.
You claim to have "read bad things" about me. I would love to see *legitimate* examples of this...not something that was shown to be inaccorate or unreasonable later on, or "he built a bad motor for my friend's dad's dog's brother, but I dont want to say his name here" which is most of what you'll be able to find...meaningless, unsubstantiated bullshit.
I have had people come from all over the US to get work done here. They can easily pay for shipping/transport and still come out way ahead of what others charge for just a rebuilt/reman block. Right now I have a 94 from cincinnati here. I have had people bring cars from maine, new york, florida, kansas city, michigan, etc. and I have done engines from washington state, california, hawaii, montana, just about every state in the country for that matter.
08-22-07, 07:21 AM
#30
*Edited for Niceness*
There...now you really sound like a good guy along with knowing your ****.
Seriously, to the OP...he may sound rude at times...but balancing that with the fact that he's trying to save you from screwing yourself, don't take it so personal.
Maybe these guys try too hard to educate people who don't want to listen. OP, you also have to start posting more factual information with prices and back it up with some proof if you want to convince people.
Looks like I need to clarify a few things xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx:
1) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. I am dispensing free, accurate technical information based on years of experience with no compensation. xxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
2) I beat Ernst's $1100 price all day long..my base build is $1000, with a 12 month UNLIMITED MILE warranty. He was matching my 1000 base price there for a while, but I guess he wasn't making enough so he adjusted his prices. And, its a written warranty that gets honored if the time comes, unlike many other companies (not speaking of him, but builders in general).
3) rebuild/reman/new/used. New engine = all new parts inside...nothing reused. Reman and rebuild are the same thing...some new part content, some used part content. Used = not a rebuild by anyone, simply an old OEM engine. Japanese junkyard (jspec) engines fall into this category as well; they are simply a bit less used than the US turbo engines.
4) you DID NOT find a "reman" turbo engine with tranny and accessories for $1600 or whatever. You found a JSPEC JAPANESE JUNKYARD USED turbo engine. As in...built in 1990 or whatever, sat for several months/years, pulled out and shipped to us.
5) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. My work reputation speaks for itself...these people posting in support of me are not doing so because of my charm or handsome looks, they are doing so because I have likely done them a favor or work at some time...perhaps built an engine, answered a tech question (or a few hundred), sold them some cheap parts, etc.
That said, I am a nice guy in person but I don't have time to xxxxx talk newbies on an internet forum. If you want to be hand held then go to one of the 2 or 3 thousand dollar engine builders who pay a nice lady with big **** to answer your questions with a smile and a wink. IF you want quality work done at the best prices in north america with no bullshit involved you come to me. I'd have it no other way, and most of my customers say the same thing.
1) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. I am dispensing free, accurate technical information based on years of experience with no compensation. xxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
2) I beat Ernst's $1100 price all day long..my base build is $1000, with a 12 month UNLIMITED MILE warranty. He was matching my 1000 base price there for a while, but I guess he wasn't making enough so he adjusted his prices. And, its a written warranty that gets honored if the time comes, unlike many other companies (not speaking of him, but builders in general).
3) rebuild/reman/new/used. New engine = all new parts inside...nothing reused. Reman and rebuild are the same thing...some new part content, some used part content. Used = not a rebuild by anyone, simply an old OEM engine. Japanese junkyard (jspec) engines fall into this category as well; they are simply a bit less used than the US turbo engines.
4) you DID NOT find a "reman" turbo engine with tranny and accessories for $1600 or whatever. You found a JSPEC JAPANESE JUNKYARD USED turbo engine. As in...built in 1990 or whatever, sat for several months/years, pulled out and shipped to us.
5) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. My work reputation speaks for itself...these people posting in support of me are not doing so because of my charm or handsome looks, they are doing so because I have likely done them a favor or work at some time...perhaps built an engine, answered a tech question (or a few hundred), sold them some cheap parts, etc.
That said, I am a nice guy in person but I don't have time to xxxxx talk newbies on an internet forum. If you want to be hand held then go to one of the 2 or 3 thousand dollar engine builders who pay a nice lady with big **** to answer your questions with a smile and a wink. IF you want quality work done at the best prices in north america with no bullshit involved you come to me. I'd have it no other way, and most of my customers say the same thing.
Seriously, to the OP...he may sound rude at times...but balancing that with the fact that he's trying to save you from screwing yourself, don't take it so personal.
Maybe these guys try too hard to educate people who don't want to listen. OP, you also have to start posting more factual information with prices and back it up with some proof if you want to convince people.
08-22-07, 09:27 AM
#31
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Wow!
This thread has convinced me to get my motor rebuilt by Rotary Ressurection and its in good shape!
Thank you for dishing out the honest truth with none of the bullcrap!
Thank you for dishing out the honest truth with none of the bullcrap!
08-22-07, 10:23 AM
#32
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If I can get a hold of Kevin, I will more then likely take some vacation time and just drag the whole car to Kevin and let him do the whole thing, pull pick n part and re-build ported... the guy knows his stuff and if nothing else will more then likely cost less then trying to do it myself and screwing it all up. I can re-build a 350 without a hitch but nvr touched a rotary and from the things I've heard... I don't know if I want to try.... lol so Kevin, at some point I may be calling you to rip mine apart.
P.S. I love how straight forward and "no bullshit" he is.
P.S. I love how straight forward and "no bullshit" he is.
08-22-07, 10:20 PM
#33
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ok, then big deal...its a REBUILT motor, for the same price (actually better than what he quoted me and even with polished rotors and super seals), and the owner is super nice, plus its got a good warranty (still haven't heard anything about that from mr landers), so whatever. And don't call me junior, i may be young, but i'm old enough to whip someone's *** so just because i can't see you don't get all comfortable with me like I'm some sorry 16 year old whose daddy bought him a car...i'm 24 and I bought and paid for this car (and my motor now, thank you teamwireracing) with blood sweat and tears, so back off... you don't have a right to talk down to me because this is my first rx7, and if you want to get technical, please explain what the big difference between a reman and a rebuild is? Aside from overpriced parts that could have been salvaged from another motor and been just as well..
like I say, again, just because you don't have to interact with me in person doesn't give you a right to disrespect me. Human ******* decency people! just be respectful, I didn't disrespect anyone until I got jumped on for being ignorant..give me a chance to learn before the insults people please!
like I say, again, just because you don't have to interact with me in person doesn't give you a right to disrespect me. Human ******* decency people! just be respectful, I didn't disrespect anyone until I got jumped on for being ignorant..give me a chance to learn before the insults people please!
08-22-07, 10:37 PM
#34
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here's why I would rather go to rx7world.com... first he has answered all of my questions and given plenty of advice via email, second, he HAS a motor to send me and I don't have to wait for MINE to be rebuilt, third, yes, a little people skills goes a long way. Also, the bad things I've heard, i was warned by more than one person via PM that you don't rebuild motors you "refresh" them, second that you "just want to take my money" third i read a long forum where someone got their engine rebuilt and it came back covered in grease and just a mess and I just would rather deal with someone who is more professional. you called bullshit on me, i call it on you and I have found a rotary motor that meets and exceeds my own expectations and fits in my budget too, and I don't have to wait around for it. Actually, I will be paying 1300 for the motor plus shipping and my core for a motor with polished rotors, super apex seals and updated corner springs with 12k 12month warranty, and that sounds fine to me. If you could have beat this deal then you should have said so from the get-go and kept it at that. I don't need your advice, i have a technician that can give me advice, give me all the free advice you want. Advice doesn't make the sale, economics and social skills make the sale, and ernst at rx7world got you beat on both to me..
08-22-07, 10:41 PM
#35
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and as for your jaded followers...maybe you are less of an *** in person. you don't have to "spoon feed" me, I obviously have proven your original quote of 3-5000 for the short block or something like that as wrong, if you had just given me the "no bullshit" deal and left out the personal attacks on my intellect and my integrity then you might have earned a few hundred off of me. Maybe next time just deal in facts, and keep the mudslinging comments to yourself...thanks everyone. I'm done with this thread..
08-23-07, 05:14 PM
#36
lol, my head hurts...
reman= an engine built with all remanufactured/new parts, which is what we generally call a mazda reman and there is a few builders who lap irons, recoat the rotors and use all new rotor housings which are also typically considered reman engines.
rebuilt/overhauled/reconditioned= an engine comprised of used parts that are within OEM specifications to be reused also consisting of some new parts which vary from builder to builder, as far as i'm concerned no builder should be reusing apex seals at the very least and there is many other wear components that drive prices up such as bearings and replacement irons and rotor housings.
obviously the second option is the cheapest and what most people opt for as a reman or even new rotary engine is hardly much more reliable than a rebuilt one as far as my experiences have seen with inconsistencies in casting procedures from the factory. you can actually farm pick the pieces to build an engine that is far less delicate to overheating as typical by choosing thick consistent cast irons for particular builds.
the choices are always personal preference though, i get very tired of trying to tell people which is better because truthfully neither is better than the other with the exception of building practices.
main point to keep in mind with rotary engines is the benchmarks and building practices, a $1400 for a 13B is about rock bottom for a rebuilt engine. much cheaper than this and you will either be losing out in wear components that should be replaced, poor cleaning of used parts and lack of care in disassembly/reassembly. Kevin already listed out the price of base parts replacement so i will not bother to rehash that.
reman= an engine built with all remanufactured/new parts, which is what we generally call a mazda reman and there is a few builders who lap irons, recoat the rotors and use all new rotor housings which are also typically considered reman engines.
rebuilt/overhauled/reconditioned= an engine comprised of used parts that are within OEM specifications to be reused also consisting of some new parts which vary from builder to builder, as far as i'm concerned no builder should be reusing apex seals at the very least and there is many other wear components that drive prices up such as bearings and replacement irons and rotor housings.
obviously the second option is the cheapest and what most people opt for as a reman or even new rotary engine is hardly much more reliable than a rebuilt one as far as my experiences have seen with inconsistencies in casting procedures from the factory. you can actually farm pick the pieces to build an engine that is far less delicate to overheating as typical by choosing thick consistent cast irons for particular builds.
the choices are always personal preference though, i get very tired of trying to tell people which is better because truthfully neither is better than the other with the exception of building practices.
main point to keep in mind with rotary engines is the benchmarks and building practices, a $1400 for a 13B is about rock bottom for a rebuilt engine. much cheaper than this and you will either be losing out in wear components that should be replaced, poor cleaning of used parts and lack of care in disassembly/reassembly. Kevin already listed out the price of base parts replacement so i will not bother to rehash that.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 08-23-07 at 05:28 PM.
08-24-07, 02:22 AM
#40
who takes the time to polish a rotor that is going to have carbon and oil on it in a matter of seconds anyways? iceblue?
sad part is polishing strips all the zinc plating(or whatever the protective dull gold plating is that mazda put on there that does seem to work) off the rotor exposing it to oxidization
sad part is polishing strips all the zinc plating(or whatever the protective dull gold plating is that mazda put on there that does seem to work) off the rotor exposing it to oxidization
08-24-07, 03:09 AM
#42
its a REBUILT motor, for the same price (actually better than what he quoted me and even with polished rotors and super seals),
In contrast, I include new mazda oem apex seals, short and long apex springs, and FD corner seal springs in all my rebuilds as of about 6 months ago, even though I havent been able to get the site updated.
Polished rotors do absolutely nothing but make the owner/viewer of the pics sleep better at night.
plus its got a good warranty (still haven't heard anything about that from mr landers),
and if you want to get technical, please explain what the big difference between a reman and a rebuild is? Aside from overpriced parts that could have been salvaged from another motor and been just as well..
new: all new parts in the engine. Some may also call this a "reman" based on their experiences in the piston engine world, even though I do not call it such because of the common "mazda remans" which are simply rebuilds as discussed below. A "new" engine built by an aftermarket shop or person is generally not as "tight" or desireable as a "new" engine built by mazda japan, even though you can get an engine built to spec by a shop whereas mazda only produces stock engines.
reman: the only rotary engine commonly known as a "reman" is what mazda sells...which is just a rebuild with used part content. Major hard parts are reused while seals and springs are new. Sounds an awful lot like a rebuild (see below) to me.
rebuild: most common term associated with rotary engines that have been opened and gone through with some used parts reused and some new parts replaced. Most major parts are reused when possible due to extremely high parts prices. You could also call this a refresh.
used: not having been recently built as defined above.
Also, the bad things I've heard, i was warned by more than one person via PM that you don't rebuild motors you "refresh" them,
second that you "just want to take my money"
Looks like Ernst or one of the other builders is taking more of your money than I wanted to, so much for that theory.
third i read a long forum where someone got their engine rebuilt and it came back covered in grease and just a mess and I just would rather deal with someone who is more professional.
Get the **** outta here. Show me. This is another "my brother's friend's dog's dad got a bad motor" stories that simply did not happen until proven otherwise. After all, we all know that if you do a good job the customer tells one person, you do a bad one and they scream to 100 people. The fact that no one else has mentioned this until now makes it awfully suspicious in my eyes. Yes, I have to call bullshit again. 
I don't need your advice, i have a technician that can give me advice, give me all the free advice you want.
By posting here you are asking others and myself for our help and advice. If you know so ******* much why are you here?
If you could have beat this deal then you should have said so from the get-go and kept it at that.
Advice doesn't make the sale, economics and social skills make the sale, and ernst at rx7world got you beat on both to me..
if you had just given me the "no bullshit" deal and left out the personal attacks on my intellect and my integrity then you might have earned a few hundred off of me.
Maybe next time just deal in facts
and keep the mudslinging comments to yourself
that's not bad, remans are about $2k
08-24-07, 03:11 AM
#43
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haha this is weird... Ernst is actually not far from me. i deal with him on occaission and he's a good guy... the "super seals" being talked of are a brand of apex seal created by Bruce Turrentine but more known by the company Rotary Aviation (hence: RA SUPER SEAL). I use these if they are requested, but still and always will prefer OEM mazda apex seals which actually cost quite a bit more.
1,000.00 rebuilds are done by being able to re-use most everything. side seals, springs, corner seals, etc.. can often be re-used and saves a lot of money. you can cut costs by using atkins or the RA classics for apex seals. in most cases you re-use bearings if they are within spec and this is actually preferred
the rest of the savings is mostly in labor, granted this is for your basic rebuild.
i usually only do these for the n/a crowd or the turbo car that plans to stay stock. for everyone else looking for power and longevity there are other measures taken and this obviously drives up price (2600.00) but will withstand 600+ hp.
it's all in what you want!!!!
Kevin is a very fair guy and has a wonderful reputation! i have not met him personally but haven't seen a reason to doubt anything he says.
just my .02
p.s. Yes mazda remans are actually around 2700+ now.
1,000.00 rebuilds are done by being able to re-use most everything. side seals, springs, corner seals, etc.. can often be re-used and saves a lot of money. you can cut costs by using atkins or the RA classics for apex seals. in most cases you re-use bearings if they are within spec and this is actually preferred
the rest of the savings is mostly in labor, granted this is for your basic rebuild.
i usually only do these for the n/a crowd or the turbo car that plans to stay stock. for everyone else looking for power and longevity there are other measures taken and this obviously drives up price (2600.00) but will withstand 600+ hp.
it's all in what you want!!!!
Kevin is a very fair guy and has a wonderful reputation! i have not met him personally but haven't seen a reason to doubt anything he says.
just my .02
p.s. Yes mazda remans are actually around 2700+ now.
08-24-07, 03:34 AM
#44
BTW, I mean no disrespect to Ernst in all of this, I just hope he bitch slaps some sense into his potential customer or he makes enough money off of him to justify dealing with him.
As for my builds, for the new mazda apex seals, short and long springs, FD cornerseal springs, viton oil orings, thermal pellet, front and rear main seal, and coolant oring set, these new parts account for half of my base price, leaving the other half for misc materials and operating costs, and of course my cut. The math is not hard to work out, but there are no shortcuts being taken. The only real difference is the $1000-1200 worth of new rotorhousings that some builders mandate, and of course I can use if the customer wants to fork over the dollars.
The funny thing is that I get talked down to/about regarding my reuse of side seals/springs, corner seals, and oil control metal rings/springs, yet almost all the big builders reuse those too. Take a look in Blake's "engine building thoughts" thread in the pineapple racing section, he clearly states that they like to reuse the exact same parts that I do, with exception of those new rotorhousings. As stated above, most builders including myself reuse bearings whenever possible, and not out of being cheap; used bearings are always preferable to new ones in the eyes of most builders unless they are too worn to reuse, so that doesn't come into play as far as the budget, IMO.
It's all in how you present it. Some people just think it is too good a deal to be true. I am on the verge of saying to hell with it, and raising my price to about $1500 for a base build just to satisfy the majority opinion that this is the cheapest you can possibly offer a build for. All I get is bullshit like this for trying to help the community out with low pricing. It really makes you sit back and wonder sometimes why the rx7 crowd (and import guys in general) love to shoot themselves in the foot.
It's entirely possible that by this guy's logic, if I priced a build to him at $1500 he might very well have went with me.
one thing is for sure though, he has earned me about 3 or 4 future rebuilds from this thread alone, from the exposure it brought. Thanks luna!
As for my builds, for the new mazda apex seals, short and long springs, FD cornerseal springs, viton oil orings, thermal pellet, front and rear main seal, and coolant oring set, these new parts account for half of my base price, leaving the other half for misc materials and operating costs, and of course my cut. The math is not hard to work out, but there are no shortcuts being taken. The only real difference is the $1000-1200 worth of new rotorhousings that some builders mandate, and of course I can use if the customer wants to fork over the dollars.
The funny thing is that I get talked down to/about regarding my reuse of side seals/springs, corner seals, and oil control metal rings/springs, yet almost all the big builders reuse those too. Take a look in Blake's "engine building thoughts" thread in the pineapple racing section, he clearly states that they like to reuse the exact same parts that I do, with exception of those new rotorhousings. As stated above, most builders including myself reuse bearings whenever possible, and not out of being cheap; used bearings are always preferable to new ones in the eyes of most builders unless they are too worn to reuse, so that doesn't come into play as far as the budget, IMO.
It's all in how you present it. Some people just think it is too good a deal to be true. I am on the verge of saying to hell with it, and raising my price to about $1500 for a base build just to satisfy the majority opinion that this is the cheapest you can possibly offer a build for. All I get is bullshit like this for trying to help the community out with low pricing. It really makes you sit back and wonder sometimes why the rx7 crowd (and import guys in general) love to shoot themselves in the foot.
It's entirely possible that by this guy's logic, if I priced a build to him at $1500 he might very well have went with me.
one thing is for sure though, he has earned me about 3 or 4 future rebuilds from this thread alone, from the exposure it brought. Thanks luna!
08-24-07, 03:41 AM
#45
There were no survivors
Or the fact that people seem to think budget (as in a LOT of important corners cut) and reliability can still go hand in hand but are highly disappointed and upset when something goes wrong early. If you want something quality, quality isn't always gonna be the cheapest.
08-24-07, 03:53 AM
#46
Dude, if you are "broke" as you say you are. Buy some cheap *** car until you have SOME money to spend on your rex.
Now my personal choice would be to head 170 miles south of me and get these guys
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...on=Custom&ID=2
but thats only cause i'm close
or if i come into some money, i'd do this.
http://www.jhbperformance.com/products.php
and seriously, if you are happy with RX7worlds. Price. GET IT but remember we are all here giving you free advice and kevin does seem to know his ****.
Now my personal choice would be to head 170 miles south of me and get these guys
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...on=Custom&ID=2
but thats only cause i'm close
or if i come into some money, i'd do this.
http://www.jhbperformance.com/products.php
and seriously, if you are happy with RX7worlds. Price. GET IT but remember we are all here giving you free advice and kevin does seem to know his ****.
08-24-07, 09:30 AM
#48
210,000 miles & counting!
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Atlanta
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OK, let me chime in here.
First of all, based on this thread and other info i've read, If I needed a rebuild I'm pretty sure that I would use the services of Kevin Landers. It would appear as though he is good at what he does. Although, I know I could do the install myself, I would also probably just take my car to him and let him do the install just to make sure it was done correctly.
I will say that I think things get out of control on many of these threads. Personal attacks such as calling people **** and ***** is unnecessary. I think we could all practice a bit more patience with one another regardless of our personal opinions. After all, were all here for the same reason. I also believe that although these exchanges are entertaining, they do interfere with the gathering of helpful information.
OK, a few questions for Kevin...
I have been driving a '91 NA Vert with 211,000 miles for 3 or 4 years. Although I have not had a compression check, I expect it would check out pretty good as the engine still seems to run very strong and reliable. The question is... Are their any tell-tell signs that the engine may have been rebuilt before I bought it?
Also, how far are you from Atlanta, GA?
Thanks!
First of all, based on this thread and other info i've read, If I needed a rebuild I'm pretty sure that I would use the services of Kevin Landers. It would appear as though he is good at what he does. Although, I know I could do the install myself, I would also probably just take my car to him and let him do the install just to make sure it was done correctly.
I will say that I think things get out of control on many of these threads. Personal attacks such as calling people **** and ***** is unnecessary. I think we could all practice a bit more patience with one another regardless of our personal opinions. After all, were all here for the same reason. I also believe that although these exchanges are entertaining, they do interfere with the gathering of helpful information.
OK, a few questions for Kevin...
I have been driving a '91 NA Vert with 211,000 miles for 3 or 4 years. Although I have not had a compression check, I expect it would check out pretty good as the engine still seems to run very strong and reliable. The question is... Are their any tell-tell signs that the engine may have been rebuilt before I bought it?
Also, how far are you from Atlanta, GA?
Thanks!
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