Improved coolant seals?
#1
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Improved coolant seals?
Sice coolant seals are largely to blame for our failed engines, I noticed these
*new, improved* coolant seals from hayes rotary. Has anyone heard of these or tried them? Interesting, if nothing else.
http://www.hayesrotary.com/page2.htm
Also, I know hayes is not exactly a favorite rebuilder on the forum..
*new, improved* coolant seals from hayes rotary. Has anyone heard of these or tried them? Interesting, if nothing else.
http://www.hayesrotary.com/page2.htm
Also, I know hayes is not exactly a favorite rebuilder on the forum..
#2
Open up! Search Warrant!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kicking down doors in a neighborhood near you
Posts: 3,838
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
you can get those from mazdatrix too. I have them in my engine but I can't say how good it is because my engine hasn't overheated or anything since I rebuilt it.
#3
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
This is a touch off your topic.....but I WONDER how many of these coolant seal problems are really corrosion problems. An example is the engine I'm overhauling for the fellow down the block. It was puking water overboard, was its problem.
When torn apart things looked really good for a hundred whatever thousand mile engine. Except the first sign of trouble was the pipe on the rear housing that feeds the throttel body coolant was corroded almost intwo. The heater water pipe of the left side showed corrosion. Bad corrosion. The water feed pipe on the side of the turbo was so corroded the banjo bolt fitting snapped intwo, leaving the shank permanetly corroded to the inners of the turbo. It's going to take more than a easy out
But the clincher was the rear housing. the land that seperates the inner coolant seal from the combustion chamber was corroded out, causing the gases to get into the water jacket. The new front housing price is posted on Mazdatrix.
Use anti-freeze bv all means after you rebuild.
By the way, I used the non-stock oil control rings in the engine I'm rebuilding for that guy. I really, really, really wish I'd used stock oil control rings. I have doubts about the aftermarket ones.
When torn apart things looked really good for a hundred whatever thousand mile engine. Except the first sign of trouble was the pipe on the rear housing that feeds the throttel body coolant was corroded almost intwo. The heater water pipe of the left side showed corrosion. Bad corrosion. The water feed pipe on the side of the turbo was so corroded the banjo bolt fitting snapped intwo, leaving the shank permanetly corroded to the inners of the turbo. It's going to take more than a easy out
But the clincher was the rear housing. the land that seperates the inner coolant seal from the combustion chamber was corroded out, causing the gases to get into the water jacket. The new front housing price is posted on Mazdatrix.
Use anti-freeze bv all means after you rebuild.
By the way, I used the non-stock oil control rings in the engine I'm rebuilding for that guy. I really, really, really wish I'd used stock oil control rings. I have doubts about the aftermarket ones.
#4
Open up! Search Warrant!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kicking down doors in a neighborhood near you
Posts: 3,838
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Use anti-freeze bv all means after you rebuild
Have you seen people run straight water?
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,823
Received 2,591 Likes
on
1,840 Posts
i have seen a lot of coolant seals being the mode of failure of a bunch of na cars, but they seem to have enough miles on em (200,000+) that if the wind blew a different direction it would have been the rotor oil seals or the apex seals.
so basically i use the factory seals because i know they will last for 20years, or until the engine is overheated.
so basically i use the factory seals because i know they will last for 20years, or until the engine is overheated.
#6
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...otary+aviation
I use anti-freeze, but the DUMBO who owned the engine I'm messing with sure didn't. Cheapskate, I suppose. And this isn't the first engine I've delt with that had water corrosion that ate away the land the seal sits in (it's the second egnine, but then I've only done seven or so engines). The DUMBOS are out there, lurking. Beware.
Oh! And I forgot to mention the residue of the coolant stop leak stuff they used. Tons of it inside the engine water passages. Gee, I wonder if the radiator has any of that stopping up the passages. Nah!
I use anti-freeze, but the DUMBO who owned the engine I'm messing with sure didn't. Cheapskate, I suppose. And this isn't the first engine I've delt with that had water corrosion that ate away the land the seal sits in (it's the second egnine, but then I've only done seven or so engines). The DUMBOS are out there, lurking. Beware.
Oh! And I forgot to mention the residue of the coolant stop leak stuff they used. Tons of it inside the engine water passages. Gee, I wonder if the radiator has any of that stopping up the passages. Nah!
Last edited by HAILERS; 02-20-05 at 05:10 PM.
#7
Open up! Search Warrant!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kicking down doors in a neighborhood near you
Posts: 3,838
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I used stop leak to plug up a broken coolant seal. The seal was blown when I bought the car. Someone replaced the pressure cap assembly with one that didn't have a tube for the over flow bottle. Pressure built up and blew a seal. I only used the stop leak until I had enough $$$ to get a rebuild kit.
Trending Topics
#8
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Falls Church, Va
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Two comments:
Anti Freeze contains corrosion inhibitors which coat the metals and prevent corrosion. To run without it is not a good idea even if you are in an area that is not subject to freezing or boiling over.
The coolant seals mentioned at the top of this thread may be the same as those discussed previously in this forum. Do a search on "mcmaster carr" or go to www.mcmastercarr.com and enter part number 9319K239 It would be nice if there were a complete Oring list that could be ordered from Mcmaster but I think the forum got only as far as the rotor oil rings and the inner jacket oringset. Does any one have the generic part numbers for any other parts such as the dowels, front cover, cas, etc?
Anti Freeze contains corrosion inhibitors which coat the metals and prevent corrosion. To run without it is not a good idea even if you are in an area that is not subject to freezing or boiling over.
The coolant seals mentioned at the top of this thread may be the same as those discussed previously in this forum. Do a search on "mcmaster carr" or go to www.mcmastercarr.com and enter part number 9319K239 It would be nice if there were a complete Oring list that could be ordered from Mcmaster but I think the forum got only as far as the rotor oil rings and the inner jacket oringset. Does any one have the generic part numbers for any other parts such as the dowels, front cover, cas, etc?
#9
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by Project84
Why wouldn't one use anitfreeze? It (along with being pressurized) increases the boiling point of water and decreases the freezing point.
Have you seen people run straight water?
Have you seen people run straight water?
Or the number of people that don't change the coolant at least every 2 years.
#11
The mystery of the prize.
Pure water does cool your engine better, the boiling point goes up a small amount with the 50/50 antifreeze, you can achieve the same thing (or better) with a higher pressure cap using pure water, and the higher pressure will help keep hot spots down at the same time.
If you run water you just have to add something that will help inhibit the corrosion, water wetter does this among other things. If you are in a warm climate, I would rather run water & water wetter or some other corrosion inhibitor.
Also, if you track the car, you may be REQUIRED to run water, antifreeze is slick and doesnt evaporate in a reasonable time frame, you overflow onto the track surface and it's a big problem.
If you run water you just have to add something that will help inhibit the corrosion, water wetter does this among other things. If you are in a warm climate, I would rather run water & water wetter or some other corrosion inhibitor.
Also, if you track the car, you may be REQUIRED to run water, antifreeze is slick and doesnt evaporate in a reasonable time frame, you overflow onto the track surface and it's a big problem.
#12
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
http://www.mazdaformance.com/rx7parts.htm
*****Does any one have the generic part numbers for any other parts such as the dowels, front cover, cas, etc?*****
Oooops. I missed the *generic*.
*****Does any one have the generic part numbers for any other parts such as the dowels, front cover, cas, etc?*****
Oooops. I missed the *generic*.
Last edited by HAILERS; 02-20-05 at 07:11 PM.
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 1,183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
ZaqAtaq
New Member RX-7 Technical
2
09-05-15 08:57 PM