Sice coolant seals are largely to blame for our failed engines, I noticed these
*new, improved* coolant seals from hayes rotary. Has anyone heard of these or tried them? Interesting, if nothing else.


http://www.hayesrotary.com/page2.htm

Also, I know hayes is not exactly a favorite rebuilder on the forum..

 

you can get those from mazdatrix too. I have them in my engine but I can't say how good it is because my engine hasn't overheated or anything since I rebuilt it.

 

This is a touch off your topic.....but I WONDER how many of these coolant seal problems are really corrosion problems. An example is the engine I'm overhauling for the fellow down the block. It was puking water overboard, was its problem.

When torn apart things looked really good for a hundred whatever thousand mile engine. Except the first sign of trouble was the pipe on the rear housing that feeds the throttel body coolant was corroded almost intwo. The heater water pipe of the left side showed corrosion. Bad corrosion. The water feed pipe on the side of the turbo was so corroded the banjo bolt fitting snapped intwo, leaving the shank permanetly corroded to the inners of the turbo. It's going to take more than a easy out

But the clincher was the rear housing. the land that seperates the inner coolant seal from the combustion chamber was corroded out, causing the gases to get into the water jacket. The new front housing price is posted on Mazdatrix.

Use anti-freeze bv all means after you rebuild.

By the way, I used the non-stock oil control rings in the engine I'm rebuilding for that guy. I really, really, really wish I'd used stock oil control rings. I have doubts about the aftermarket ones.

 

Why wouldn't one use anitfreeze? It (along with being pressurized) increases the boiling point of water and decreases the freezing point.

Have you seen people run straight water?

 

i have seen a lot of coolant seals being the mode of failure of a bunch of na cars, but they seem to have enough miles on em (200,000+) that if the wind blew a different direction it would have been the rotor oil seals or the apex seals.

so basically i use the factory seals because i know they will last for 20years, or until the engine is overheated.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...otary+aviation

I use anti-freeze, but the DUMBO who owned the engine I'm messing with sure didn't. Cheapskate, I suppose. And this isn't the first engine I've delt with that had water corrosion that ate away the land the seal sits in (it's the second egnine, but then I've only done seven or so engines). The DUMBOS are out there, lurking. Beware.

Oh! And I forgot to mention the residue of the coolant stop leak stuff they used. Tons of it inside the engine water passages. Gee, I wonder if the radiator has any of that stopping up the passages. Nah!

 

I used stop leak to plug up a broken coolant seal. The seal was blown when I bought the car. Someone replaced the pressure cap assembly with one that didn't have a tube for the over flow bottle. Pressure built up and blew a seal. I only used the stop leak until I had enough $$$ to get a rebuild kit.

 

Two comments:
Anti Freeze contains corrosion inhibitors which coat the metals and prevent corrosion. To run without it is not a good idea even if you are in an area that is not subject to freezing or boiling over.

The coolant seals mentioned at the top of this thread may be the same as those discussed previously in this forum. Do a search on "mcmaster carr" or go to www.mcmastercarr.com and enter part number 9319K239 It would be nice if there were a complete Oring list that could be ordered from Mcmaster but I think the forum got only as far as the rotor oil rings and the inner jacket oringset. Does any one have the generic part numbers for any other parts such as the dowels, front cover, cas, etc?

 

You would surprised at the idiots who don't run any anti-freeze mix (or who run 70% water-30% coolant) and think that they are getting better cooling because of it.

Or the number of people that don't change the coolant at least every 2 years.

 

sure pissed me off, ruined 2 perfectly good rotor housings because of the previous owner not running a 50/50 mix or changing the coolant often enough.

 

Pure water does cool your engine better, the boiling point goes up a small amount with the 50/50 antifreeze, you can achieve the same thing (or better) with a higher pressure cap using pure water, and the higher pressure will help keep hot spots down at the same time.

If you run water you just have to add something that will help inhibit the corrosion, water wetter does this among other things. If you are in a warm climate, I would rather run water & water wetter or some other corrosion inhibitor.

Also, if you track the car, you may be REQUIRED to run water, antifreeze is slick and doesnt evaporate in a reasonable time frame, you overflow onto the track surface and it's a big problem.

 

http://www.mazdaformance.com/rx7parts.htm

*****Does any one have the generic part numbers for any other parts such as the dowels, front cover, cas, etc?*****

Oooops. I missed the *generic*.

 

they are the same o-rings that come in the rotaryaviation kits, they work alright so far that i have seen but no coolant jacket o-ring is foolproof, most of them blow out when the coolant seal lands break off into the coolant passages.

 

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=41442

 

why did you post a link to $600 coolant seals? come on now...

silver plated? why not just make them gold plated for that price, i wonder how well they even worked out.

 

^_^ i
I knew you'd like em.

 

heh!