rotary1990twin

Hey i just finished my custom engine cradle and transmission bracket the fd3s is in the fc no prob. It only took me bout 8 hrs today. its reall not as hard as most post or say to do. If any one else wants to do this swap email me. I am located in olympia wa i can make the brackets you need. Here are some pics.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

wow, thats pretty sweet dude. but why not use the 13bt?

rotary1990twin

I really like the spool up of the seqential twins. plus its not a common swap ill have the only one in the north west. i got the turbo II body for 75 with a blown motor. I had a fd clip 96 at the shop i got for cheap so i said hell with it and decdided to go for it.

pengarufoo

good luck with that

In my opinion, and please don't take offense, you need to rethink the design of your 'bracket'.

therotaryrocket

yeah, i bet sequentials are awesome, which transmission is that? (did i miss it?)

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

Why not the 13b-re?

rotary1990twin

The 13b re is known for breaking rotor housings under high stress and boost, plus the one in the shell was blown, i had the fd motor just laying round the shop. And the bracket i more than strong enough i tested it on the hydro press i put over 800 lbs of pressure on it and it held fine. We put a torque wrench on the flywheel bolt and flexed it it didnt even move an inch. i did a lot of test fitment and re makes. it is givinge no probs. the driveline bolted up and i only had to make a small cut in the shifter location.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

I'm not a custom fabricator and I see you say you tested it, but do you think it would be beneficial to add some "triangles" underneath at the 90 degree angles?

gildardo

The engine looks like it's installed more to the frunt of the car than the 13BT?



gil

rotary1990twin

Idid after the pics ill have more tomorrow i triangulated to the center of the crossmember. And it is 2 inches lower and 3 inches closer to the fire wall than the 13bt. better for center of gravity and handling. i saw the weak point befor i was finished.

Bob_The_Normal

I was told this needed to be done on a jig... have you driven it yet?

--Gary

Jaiyurai

iTrader: (30)

doesn't look too shabby to me. And if he pressure tested the bar plus adding a few more triangles, then I don't understand why anyone isn't giving him a little more support. This swap isn't easily done and not very popular.

pengarufoo

13brew in a fc is cool with me, I fully support him in this project.

I support him so much that I'm providing some *good advice* on changing the design of that engine mount bracket. Look at the design of the stock bracket, it's integration into the subframe, it's got some pretty decent engineering into it.

Also, look at how your angle is attached to the subframe, to the bottom of the subframe, should a weld break, that steel is falling of the subframe along with the motor attached to it. If you weld it on top of the subframe, a failed weld is not giong to result in immediate falling of the whole deal, it can rest on the subframe while you hear the loud clanks of the loose bracket without putting your oilpan on the pavement. Just to note one simple improvement that could be made to make it a bit better.

You could move the bracket further forward so the motor mounts attach closer to the crossmember you are using, rather than giving the mass of the motor so much leverage over the crossmember and it's relatively small attachment area where it is welded to the subframe.

You could also rotate the cross member so it's not hanging so low increasing the risk of getting hung up on obstructions in the road (unexpected types of things) which could potentially cause it to break away from the subframe, and drop the whole deal.

while the 800lbs of testing may have been enough to satisfy your safety concerns, you may want to consider the mass of the engine and trans, and the resultant forces at play when things are in motion not just sitting parked in the garage. Think about the force all that mass will have on that bracket when you go over a large bump. Think about what will happen to that bracket if someone hits your car. Think about the force shock like a clutch dump on boost @ 6000 rpm with sticky tires will put on that bracket. Nobody builds something like this to drive it like a grandma or leave it parked all the time.

Again, no offense is intended, cool project, just be safe and put a little more thought into the design before committing it to steel & welds, you'll thank yourself later.

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

Where did you hear that from. They are basically the same block except with larger intake ports, smaller exhaust for more low end, and of course the different manifolds.

NZConvertible

You know you'll need to run the FD FCU plus all the relevant solenoids, actuators and vac plumbing to make the turbos operate sequentially right? Without all that you can only run them in parallel, and the FD guys don't seem to have much good to say about doing that...

Mx6-Rx7 Addict

Looks like you have quite a project going. Are you planning to run an aftermarket ECU, or the stock FD computer? Looks like you have good resources and equipment if you were able to see how much stress the bracket will withstand. Are you running a TII tranny or the fd tranny?

Now to whoever said that the 13B-RE rotor housings will break under stress.. Why would it do this, and from where did you get such utter BS info from? I think the 13B-RE is a great motor.

Good luck with your project.

-Justin

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I find it quite amusing that he doesn't like to use a REW or 13BT due to housings 'cracking' (and, for what it's worth, the S5 housings are reinforced, not as dramatically of course), which only happens under detonation and such.

My biggest question, is why take one unreliable item (that only happens when you usually would kill the motor anyway), and replace it with one that generally doesn't last 100k?

IaMtHeRuThLeSs1

I think the project looks great, however if I were doing it I wouldnt go to all that trouble to keep the stock twins, I'd at least ditch them for a single turbo, if for nothing more than more room and less PITA to wire.

Madrx7racer

seems like a pain in the ***.........how are you strengthening your brackets and mounts?

rotary1990twin

The pictures were of test fitment and mock up my new brackets are almost done, i will have pics up soon. There are grade 10 saftey bolts drilled through the angle with body washers and trough the crossmember, saftey for if the welds break. as for strength i am incorperating a engine dampener. it will hold. you have to see for your self how strong it is in person there are no weak points. Thanx for all the ideas though. As for needing the solenoids i have the whole front clip from the 96 fd so that isnt a prob.

rotary1990twin

oh yea forgot im useing the fd tranny the drve line matched up with no mods.

rotary1990twin

when this motor gos i am going to rebuild port and go with a big single. plus this motor only had 25700 kilometers witch only means like 12000 miles on it .really fresh motor

rotary1990twin

when this motor gos i am going to rebuild port and go with a big single. plus this motor only had 25700 kilometers witch only means like 12000 miles on it .really fresh motor

Ni5mo180SX

Beyond the criticism, good luck. I think it'll work out extremely well.

Fitness Stain

yeah you got my props ....

even when people on this forum "offer" support they still come off negative ..

i say get on the road and beat the **** out of it ... so you can talk **** to those that say it wont hold ...

i dont know if it will or not (im not a fab kinda guy) but you seem confident enough so all thats left is driving that bitch

like i said .. props!