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I'M THROUGH with my 7!!!!

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Old 01-16-02, 06:53 AM
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Angry I'M THROUGH with my 7!!!!

I'm giving up, throwing in the towel, cashing in my chips, walking away, etc etc.

Here's the deal. My '87 n/a has severly clogged injectors, so bad that the engine will not idle and runs extremely rough.

In addition, it is down to 50psi in one chamber, the other chamber is still around 100psi.

The transmission needs a rebuild, and the differential whines more than Sally Struthers.

The steering rack has been leaking and is doing funky things. The A/c is not blowing cold (I think it may need a compressor, charge is "good")

I've looked into J-Spec engines, and have been told that all j-spec's are turbo engines. I don't even want to think about doing a turbo conversion, ECU, Exhaust, Transmission, on and on and on.

I've also asked around here (Detroit, MI) for machine shops that even know how to spell RX-7 and gotten no where. I was thinking of possibly doing the rebuild myself, but if I can't get the parts machined then I'm SOL. Not to mention buying all of the tools required to dismantle one.

This car has always had proper oil changes every 3k miles, and has been babied. I've got 162,000+ miles on it, the body is in good shape, brakes and tires are good. The car came from SoCal, so it doesn't have much rust at all, just some on the sunroof (which I have a rust free panel I was wanting to paint and put on) and a small rust spot on the driver's door where the trim is.

I am just going through some rough numbers in my head. A rebuilt 13b is going to run approx $1600 + shipping both the rebuild and the core. Transmission rebuild I'm guessing $500. A set of injectors to add to the rebuild $500. Miscellaneous stuff, like oil cooler lines, omp lines, gaskets, blah blah blah! I can burn more than 3 grand in a heartbeat on it and the end result will be a mostly stock n/a 2nd gen worth about 2 grand, if that.

I think it's time for me to walk.

signed,
-goin' postal
Old 01-16-02, 07:23 AM
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I hava a deal for you!!!

I have a perfect powertrain deal for you.
I have 90 N/A that has always ben dealer maintained (under warranty untill 100,000 miles). Factory new engine at 80K. currently has 115k on it. New clutch at the same time.
It is still in car and can be test driven. NO PROBLEMS AT ALL!
I will sell you the engine and trans complete, and throw in a perfect power steering rack and perfect A/C compressor.
Package deal $800 plus shipping.
If your car still runs drive it down to Vegas for a fun trip and have a local shop install it all while you play.
Old 01-16-02, 07:23 AM
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Sell it for parts . Have you tried going to your local junkyard for a wrecked 7? Many of the non engine parts (hey and maybe even) could be lying around waiting for ya. I found 2 81-83 GS models with 12a that were wrecked, and had about 100K on the clock, and I'd put good money they'd run. Goto a junkyard!
Old 01-16-02, 07:25 AM
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Re: I'M THROUGH with my 7!!!!

Originally posted by noboost
I'm giving up, throwing in the towel, cashing in my chips, walking away, etc etc.

Here's the deal. My '87 n/a has severly clogged injectors, so bad that the engine will not idle and runs extremely rough.

In addition, it is down to 50psi in one chamber, the other chamber is still around 100psi.

The transmission needs a rebuild, and the differential whines more than Sally Struthers.

The steering rack has been leaking and is doing funky things. The A/c is not blowing cold (I think it may need a compressor, charge is "good")

I've looked into J-Spec engines, and have been told that all j-spec's are turbo engines. I don't even want to think about doing a turbo conversion, ECU, Exhaust, Transmission, on and on and on.

I've also asked around here (Detroit, MI) for machine shops that even know how to spell RX-7 and gotten no where. I was thinking of possibly doing the rebuild myself, but if I can't get the parts machined then I'm SOL. Not to mention buying all of the tools required to dismantle one.

This car has always had proper oil changes every 3k miles, and has been babied. I've got 162,000+ miles on it, the body is in good shape, brakes and tires are good. The car came from SoCal, so it doesn't have much rust at all, just some on the sunroof (which I have a rust free panel I was wanting to paint and put on) and a small rust spot on the driver's door where the trim is.

I am just going through some rough numbers in my head. A rebuilt 13b is going to run approx $1600 + shipping both the rebuild and the core. Transmission rebuild I'm guessing $500. A set of injectors to add to the rebuild $500. Miscellaneous stuff, like oil cooler lines, omp lines, gaskets, blah blah blah! I can burn more than 3 grand in a heartbeat on it and the end result will be a mostly stock n/a 2nd gen worth about 2 grand, if that.

I think it's time for me to walk.

signed,
-goin' postal
You could probably get an engine for less than that.. especially a used one... And if you're going to have it rebuilt, you may as well get it ported.. otherwise you'll hate yourself for not doing it.

If nothing else, try the ATF trick. It's built compression back up for many people. http://haxx0r.net/car/rx7/atf.html

Injectors can be professionally cleaned for about 25$ each. Come back good-as-new, with new o-rings, and all balanced.

You may want to try running redline transmission and diff fluid.. That's cured a LOT of whining issues before.

Do you really need a/c in detroit? weight reduction!

Actually...babying your car too much is a BAD thing. Not revving it up a lot can lead to excessive carbon building. Revving it high sorta "blows that crap out"... Drive it spirited, but don't rag the hell out of it.

-Tesla
Old 01-16-02, 12:29 PM
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ehhhh, so it needs a little work. Let it be a project car. Stop whining and get working. I would either get another one and use parts off the older one or just fix it. It obviously doesn't mean much to you if you let it get that bad or want to give up on it.
Old 01-16-02, 12:38 PM
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Don't give up!!!! There is a great rotary mechanic in Ann Arbor named Pete at Autotech, have you talked to him? Give him a call 734.761.1661. Where do live in Detroit?
Old 01-16-02, 12:42 PM
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hey I will give you 500 plus shipping for your engine

Justin

email me if you like that Likewhisky@aol.com. i am flexible
Old 01-16-02, 12:54 PM
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If you do decide to get rid of her let me know I could use a parts car

Jimmyv13 is Autotech a rotary repair shop or just a foriegn place with a guy that knows rotarys?
Old 01-16-02, 02:31 PM
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As far as I know it's a foreign repair shop, but Pete specializes in rotaries.
Old 01-16-02, 03:59 PM
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Thanks for the replies.

Vert in Vegas, I can't make it to Vegas, can you drive it here and I'll fly you back? jk

Josepi, I haven't been to a boneyard around here yet. I hardly see any 7's on the road up here, maybe they are all in the yards. I need to check it out.

tesla042, I may try and breathe some life back into it with the ATF trick. This weekend I am hoping to remove the injectors and send them out for a cleaning and check. I should let it soak in ATF while I'm at it and also try and free up the ports. You're right about driving style, before reading this board and learning about the secondary injectors kicking in @ 3500ish, I was driving it like a big block (low revs). Since then I had been letting it breathe a bit.

Tjive999, I would let it be a project car, but I've already got one project car that I neglect, I don't need another.

jimmyv13, I did talk to Pete, in fact he was the one who ran the compression test and confirmed the injector problem. He couldn't refer me to any machine shops that know rotories. He and I had a long talk yesterday about the state of things. We basically agree that it's not really worth rebuilding. I live in Ann Arbor.

RX-7Impreza, If the ATF and injector cleaning doesn't pan out, we might could work something out.

PlayinW/Wankel, Will do.

There is one thing that I was thinking may have contributed to the injectors failing. A week before the injectors clogged I installed a fuel pump switch to help in avoiding floods. Before I shut the engine down, I would turn the fuel pump off and wait a couple of seconds until it stalled. When I was ready to start it again, I would turn the pump on and then start the engine. I am wondering if when the fuel rail drained, it dislodged deposits that ended up in the injector. You know how if you drain the pipes in your house and then turn the water back on a bunch of junk gets flushed out. I guess the junk in the pipe doesn't let loose when the pipe is full of water.

Thoughts?

Looks like I will try the ATF trick and servicing the injectors before giving up all hope.

-john
Old 01-16-02, 04:46 PM
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If you need any help, let me know. I'm in Ypsi at school on Tues and Thurs. PM me if you're interested.

There is a JY near me with 5 or 6 S4's. It might be worth the drive to check it out. I can give you directions if you want. I am a frequent customer of his, with 2 RX-7's, and he seems like a reasonable JY dude. He's Japanese and doesn't speak English too well, but there are other guys there that can translate what he's sayin'.
Old 01-16-02, 06:02 PM
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Hey. I agree. Your car is a money pit. Unless you like to mess with it as a hobby, it'll never make economic sense to own one. If you like repairing things and rebuilding motors etc, then it makes some sense to own one. Because if you rebuild the broken item yourself, you KNOW that you can take off for the other coast and its goning to stay together. I personaly don't see how anyone can even leave town in a used car. It would give me the *******. I remember the first week I found this web site and there was a fellow who realized he had a money pit, and it was either get a job and leave school to support the car , or chunk the car and finish school. He dumped the money pit.




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