Ok, i just replaced my old 1988 mazda rx7 engine 124,891 miles. The second rotar was bad, so i got a rebuit engine ATKINS ROTARY . My problem is i cant get my engine to idle. Ive got no air leaks at all, ive got new wires and plugs, timing is good, rich and lean screw has been adjusted, all wires are in there correct places. the injectors are good and clean, ive got a new fuel filter, the air intake is not plugged. fuel pump is good . all parts replaced are oem, no proforence partsIve gone over every thing 3 times to check if i missed something. i cant seem to find what i need to do to get an idle.

what the car does, u start it, revs to 2,200 then works down to about 1,200 the works down to a dead stall after 900rpms. i can only do this one time because the engine gets fludded. so i unplug the fuel pump and crank the engine over to dry it out.
what do i need to do? please help me, i just dont know what to do now. anything DIFFERENT u know is help to me Thank you

 

So, you've flooded the engine several times now? If yes, do this (from Kevin Landers' www.rotaryresurrection.com site):

Unflooding a heavily flooded 2gen:
There are a few different ways to go about this, depending on which model and year of car you have. The tried and true method entails the following:
1) remove BOTH EGI fuses closest to engine in fusebox
2) remove plugwires and lower plugs
3) crank the car over 5-10 seconds with plugs out to expel extra fuel
4) obtain some ATF(automatic trans. Fluid) or motor oil along with a method to inject it to the lower plugholes of both rotors. This will mix with the excess fuel, rebuild compression momentarily, and help the car restart. I use a hand oil pump available at autozone, which fits in a gallon jug. You can also use a small oil can with a vacuum hose, or a funnel with a long hose. Be sure to get enough in the first time, you don't want to have to keep repeating this step. You cannot really put too much atf in, as you cant hydrolock a rotary. The excess will just get shot out the exhaust port. About 1?2 cup per rotor should be more than enough.
5) Dry plugs and clean them with a wire brush, or just put a lighter to the electrode to remove gas fouling.
6) Replace plugs and wires.
7) Replace fuses.
8) Crank car to start. Floor the gas when doing so. Expect a lot of smoke.

I just went through this on my rebuild and no matter how clean or new looking your plugs are they are probably fouled. Go ahead and buy yourself a new set of plugs and use them AFTER you've made sure to clear out the fuel from the combustion chambers. I personally went through this and found that I needed to crank it about ten times for 5 seconds each time (wait a few minutes between each crank to let the starter "relax"). It's handy to have a battery charger around in case you drain the battery. When you crank the engine you'll see clouds of gasoline, when the clouds finally stop your engine should be really cleared. Again, NEW plugs.

GL and let us know how it goes.

B

 

Mine has only been flooded like 1 time. and when I finally got it to start after about 15 min of sitting inside craking it for 8-10 sec, then waiting about 10 sec, then tried it again, and so on. Finall when it started it blew thick white smoke out of the tail pipe for 1 minute straight. It was kinda cool.

 

ok i tried that what u said and i seem to kinda still flood. not as much. the gasoline smell is very strong out the tailpipe very rich, ive got the rich and lean screw turnd to the lean postion thou. wont idle worth a crap until it finally gets warm, i have to hold the thortle down for a while till it will go on its own.

??????? what is the solution that is in the subzero starter fluid that they have by the charcole chanister

 

has the engine been broke in yet or is this your first start-up??? if its your first start-up it wont idle until the engine breaks in... look at break in procedures on rotaryresurrection.com...

- chris

 

engine not broke in yet . is it bad to try and force the engine to run at 1500 rpms because its stumbles at anything below 1500

 

It's common with a fresh rebuild (new housings as well as seals and bearings espeically), to have to force the car to idle above 1000 RPM.

Use the idle set screw (at the top of the throttlebody). You may have to adjust your idle mixture control to make it a bit richer at idle.. that's the single screw on the passanger side shock tower, in the milddle of a black diamond shaped piece of plastic with R and L written on it. R stands for Richer, L stands for Leaner.

 

idle set screw adjusted to lean, only reason i did this was to get rid of the very rich gas smell out of the tailpipe