hey man i just read these could you send me a pic!
or post it here

 

wait is it like a thing right under the trailing coils?

 

Sounds like a bad relay or a faulty wire in the harness, people always think big parts when the wires and relays are more fragile and more likely to get damaged by the elements, corrosion, ets. wires get pinched, harnesses get burns in them shorting wires, etc. The ignition circuit should be checked from the starting point on, starting from the power source for the circuit, then the wires taking power to the relay, etc. etc. until you get to the coils, heck check power right at the coils, with a voltmeter, you should get 12 solid on one wire and when you crank ground on another wire will flicker to produce the spark from the coils secondaries, you cannot "see" the ground alternating but the 12 should be there if it is not that is what's wrong. I had a car do that to me once, while I was at a night club at 3:00 AM, I found out no juice was at the + side of the coil, ran a quick speaker wire to the battery, the car cranked up and I drove home.

DON'T GIVE UP, I love to buy cars with electrical problems, they usually take 1-2 hours and $5 to fix after the last guy spent hundreds "fixing" everything else.

 

don't replace another part without testing and confirming it is indeed bad and required for the proper functioning of the car. You're so upset because you have simply thrown alot of money at the car for a bunch of new parts that replaced parts that were probably still fine.

The problem you are describing is exactly what happened to me with a car I helped a friend buy and drove back from NC to IL. On the way back it would shut off randomly, everything in the car would work but the car wouldnt start or run, then out of nowhere it would start running again after we messed with things under the hood. We thought we had fixed it just by wiggling some connectors like the AFM and junk but it was just coincidence.

What it turned out to be, after a final stall and refusal to start on the damn highway, was a switch the previous owner installed for what intended to be the fuel pump. The guy was a genius, he installed a cheap junky switch with tiny gauge wires on the wire going to the EGI fuse in the main fuse block. Everything was going through this switch, ignition, fuel, etc. The switch finally went bad and would intermittently close & open thanks to the bumps on the road.

Check your main electrical system components, look at the main fuse block, make sure the connectors are on tight, fuses seated fully, and NO GHETTO SWITCHES OR WIRING.

It took a long time for me to find this switch and hacked in wiring on the side of the road, fortunately we had practically a whole shop in the trunk of my friends grand prix. When I went to check the voltage @ the power for the coils w/ignitors it was an open circuit, then fluctuating really randomly then open sometimes, it was all sorts of bad. Tracing it back led to the main fuse block and to this well hidden hacked in branch of the small wires just *TWISTED* onto the original much larger ones and the whole thing wrapped in electrical tape. After we cut out the switch and re-twisted the original wires together (nothing on hand for a proper fix) the car ran so much better, words can not describe the difference. Not just fixed, it pulled like a new car compared to before.

Sorry for the long post, i'm still kindof upset about that previous owner.

Good luck with diagnosing the problem, get out your multimeter.

 

thanx guys for the help... i know it has to be soemthing small... ill try to double check one more time but i dont own a multimeter. anyways if i cant fix it I hope the rx7 specialist in gainesville can... oh here goes an extr a20 bucks..

 

I'd say check the AFM (Air Flow meter) that causes my car to stall every once and a while. They are one of the commom items to go in this car. if the car does stall and the engine, and doesn't restart try pulling the fuze to the fuel its the sec one from the left when your looking at the front of the car crank it over a few times put it back in and give it a whirle. But the air flow meter is what i think is the prob

 

air flow meter was replaced with another used one 4k ago..

 

my showcar.. replace ecu nothing, replaced CAi nothing... some gay reason the same mechanic that showed me how to do a compression check read 85 and 90 something said that now my car is getting 75 on both rotors..... im like WTF!!!! why would it go down? ( the car has no spark and i cant hear the fuel pump at all )

 

Uh, sorry Paru but I'm going to ask a fairly stupid question because I don't want to read the last 3 pages.

Did you check the 15A eng fuse and the EGI Fuse?

Even if they visually look okay sometimes they might not be. I suppose you'd have to check them with a DIMM (multimeter) to know for sure.

Anyway, if you already did this....Well crap.

AS far as the compression goes, you got me. Maybe you used two different Comp testers and didn't know it? Sometimes measuring tools go whack.

 

15a was checked with multimeter yes.
yeah i dont know either

 

lalalalala

 

lol,

was thinking about the CAS circuit the other day.....

does this circuit have a fuse or relay?

lalalalala.

 

everything has been replaced ( includind CAS and relays)

 

my car was problem free for about 15,000 miles,now its overheating,the trim around the stereo broke,its been dented twice,its leaking water,and it floods,but im sticking it out.

 

how much have u spend on it?

 

edited...noticed you already changed the CAS...that was the problem with mine, same symtoms, also had to clean the air flow meter cause it was getting stuck (carb cleaner on the piston part and rubbing alchohol through it to clean the electronics)

 

all my wiring is taped with three layers of high resistance electric tape.. havent tried the afm so ill askk him to take a looka t it and clean it up

 

Just found this thread and was curious if you ever solved the problem? Unfortunately I don't have anything to add, but your persistance is a bit inspiring and like I said....I'm a curious gal.

 

nope.
1. rotary specialist took 3 weeks to tell me that he found coolant on the wires when i already knew this... anyways he thinks is a a short somewhere on the main accesories harness (which i guess is obvious but i didnt know), anyways now im waiting for his *** to make sure thats what it is so i can take apart the dash and run the new wiring ( used but hopefully in good condition) around (lets keep in mind this is a almost a 20 feet wiring) anyways... so the moral of this is...

NEVER EVER ADD COOLANT from teh filler neck , especially with out a funnel

 

Dude this is what u need.

 

hell yeah how much? i bet is a bit more reliable =)