thanx max sorry about that... what you are saying makes perfect sense... their was 3 connectors that got compeltly soaked with coolant... is this mean they are completly messed up? is there a way i can fix this with out buying and entire harness? i was thinking maybe if the metal connections surrounded by the plastic ones got all messed up maybe i could buy new plugs from like radio shack or the junkyard if they let me rip apart their harness.

 

what about that popping sound?

 

okey i have an idea i can take the spark plugs out and checl for compression but i dont have a compression checking tool.. i should feel 3 shooshes sounds per time i turn the key right? or how can i do it?

 

Yo Hans IM me later dude. We can talk over the phone tonight or tommorow. I think if you talk to me in spanish I might be able to help.

For now you will find a compression test procedure in the FSM(www.iluvmyrx7.com or www.fc3s.org) or in your haynes or hayes manual. You can buy a compression tester for 15 to 20 dollars at the auto store.

 

thanx santiago.

 

More details...

Just checked all the fuses... tehy all appear okey ( even the ones inside the car)

The coils should be fine since i think it might be that ishort cut the wiring harness... i will double check on this the trailing coil was fine so i hope the leading is okey as well...

Everything else works, power windows, lights etc... i took the spark plugs out each housing makes three shooch sounds so i guess i havent blown an apex seal right? or the engine making three schoos sounds dont mean anything? an di shoudl buy a compression tool?

***The especific plugs that got drained with coolant are the 2 plugs that come out of the ACV and the plug coming out from the TPS.. so those are the exact three plugs that got soaked with coolant. I did run the car with these three plugs filled with coolant up the ***. NOw... will this cause it to short circut it? i mean the entire harness...

**** ON a weird *** note****
The oil pressure tachmeter goes up to about 15 when i let off the clutch and turn teh key to off position.. i have the atkins thermal pellet upgrade...

Also the RPMS tachmeter doesnt bounce at all...

 

checking for volatge on OHMS on those three plugs i found out that all three measure to around a lil bit more than half. it doesnt go all teh way to 0 it stays like right on the middle.. ( i hope that makes sense)

 

okey well i tested the fuses with a ohm meter to test the resiatnce and they all tested okey even the 15a one under the dash... anything else?
I been doing some search and sense i dont get any signal to my tach.. my trailing shoudl be bad but tested good.. if the leading coil was bad then it would cause the trailing to give no spark even if it was good?

 

no it shouldn't make a difference, but I'm not 100% sure.
There HAS to be something disconnected in regards to the Trailing coils, follow the wires from the coils all the way until it ends (under passenger side carpet. next to the blower motor. I but it is a bad connection somewhere along there, because your ECU is good, right ?
Now if the tach was bouncing and it still didn't fire up and you tested the spark and never sparked then the coil is bad, but the connection is good. take your time and good through the connection, I'll guarantee that's it.

 

NO THE TACH HAS NEVER BOUNCED.. when it did bounce the car started right up but then died after 10 seconds

 

guys i think i got it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Looking through the FSM... the interlock switch which triggers the starter ( which later produces the spark) might be messed up. I checked for the ohm reading for continuity like the fsm said and i got about half way of continuity with the clutch pedal being released. i got my bro to help me and as i pressed the clutch pedal the neddle went down and up again to the middle.... according to the FSM i shouldn't get any continuity whatsoever with the clucth pedal is released.

 

any of you guys had any interlocking switch cases...

 

bumpy di dooo

 

Get a new battery!!!

 

I dont mean to hate but... umm i just bought a new one 4 months ago and its a pretty powerful one with over 750 cold cranking amps and 820 cranking amps.

i used a multimeter and it read about 11.5 with out the key on the ignition. Ill check it again with the key on the on position but im sure ill get the 14 voltage the battery should have.

 

well lets see the battery was low.. accordign to walmart they rechaRGE IT, i replaced teh interlocking switch ( TPS) i got the startere checke dit chekced good... nothing....

 

i just replaced teh 4 month old starter with a new one, and the 4 month battery with anew one.. nothing....

 

ok ok ok ok ok ... I think everyone is leaving out one little important thing in this system that I have had the unfortunate experiance of dealing with. In the line between the battery and the ignitor coils there is a small metal box containing a relay. If this relay is not connecting you will not get any spark no matter what. I went through 3 ignitor/coils and an ecu among other things before I found it. It's against the wall right behind (towards the driver) the drivers side shock top. Mine is brass or something gold colored so it's easy to find. Check that. I can take a picture of it if you want. It's extremely easy to get out and you can try connecting it without the cover off to see if it works. Mine was unforturnately clogged with fireants (how the f#$k does that happen?) and I spend a couple hundred diagnosing and 5 minutes fixing the real problem. Seeing as how you've checked just about anything else, I say it's your best bet. And I felt exactly the same way when it happened to me. I wanted to take a bat to her, but don't let her know that

 

Yeah, get a pic.

 

Hey guys the thing I noticed is that the fuel pump does not turn on when the key is turned. I think the ecu is bad or its a grounding prolem.

 

IM sick of it... car died for the 5th time...

join the club

 

what about the alternator , have it tested..should be 13.5 volts minimun charging volts

 

he would no, the idiot lights would come on and stay.

 

umm.. Eraumazda? Are you discussing the same car as us? Have you been working on it then? That doesn't sound too good if it's not turning on, the ecu should be checked but don't waste money on a new one unless you KNOW the old one is bad..... I'm crying cause I did

 

yup...Well he said the coolant spilled around the wiring harness and he always had a problem with ground. The fuel pump is not on and their is no spark. Its has to be a ground or the ecu point blank.