Airpumps:
Any automotive store that sells Air Horns. Cost? About $19-20 bucks.

RPM Switches:
Summit Racing.com $50 bucks

 

I'm usuing a cheapo thing from ebay. I exploded the magnets/wire loom in the first one I bought after only 4 months of use. I'm assuming the heat from the exhaust manny did it. I had the old one mounted in the same place SureShot has his now. I have since reinstalled the replacement infront of the radiator.

The only difference between mine and SureShots system other than the pump placement, is he runs the air through the stock aux prot solenoid. My air goes to a distro block that has a bleed. Two of the outputs on the distro go straight to the aux ports, the third goes to the stock VDI solenoid, and the fourth is the air bleed/release. The pump is however activated/powered via a relay from the ground lead on the aux port solenoid. I still use the solenoid for 12v- switching, but not for pnuematic switching.

 

cool, thanks for the direction, you guys! I'm looking around, and will be rigging something up within a paycheck or two

Cheers!

 

check out rarestrx's dyno graphs (i dont know if they are still hosted, maybe pm him)

his stock block s5 didnt start to dive off (although it did taper past 7.5k) until about 8400. this proves a modded (thoguh still not ported) n/a can make power PAST 8000.

stock 6-port motors still have very aggressive timing profiles in terms of intake duration and overlap, even when compared to boingers with similar powerbands.
its not the port timing so much that holds a stock motor back as it is the NET restriction of all the intake and exhaust crap. free enough of this stuff like rarestrx and kenteth (and i, hehe) have done and the motor can and will make good, usable power that high.

now the prudence of reving the engine this high is another matter, but the power is there with the proper mods..

 

I will admit that the powerband drops shortly after 8250-8500is when the VDI opens. When it doesnt' open, theres little, if any power above 7500. I'm not saying I'm rolling masive HP at 10k, I'm not that niave. I'm just saying power is still there at 8000 and a bit beyond.

 

just because a dyno graph is starting to slope off doesnt mean that the car (is not making power)

so it peaks at 160 hp at 7.5K, but is still making 140@8000+, how can you say that isnt making power?

 

Well... considering you could shift at 7.75 and end up somewhere back around 6 when its pulling hard again...

I'm not saying all my power is above 7.5, cause I know its not.

 

Hey, shouldn't the wire connected to the AFM be sticking out of the side instead of the top? Or did I put mine on wrong when I put my cone filter on? heh.

 

There is a certain balance to them. Its since been reinstalled so that the wire goes toward the lowe passenger fender.

 

im in aagreement with you. i posted that as an addition to me previuos post, but yours got inbetween.


if nothing else the trany cant handle it. i shifted maybe a total of a dozen times from 1-2 at like 8300, trying to land above 5300 and keep the vdi on, and my 2nd gear synchro is screwed now.

the power is ther for the sake of "over-rev" so you can for instance, stay in a gear just a little bit longer and then decelerate-while still in that gear- while apraoching a turn, instead of shifting up, then single, or even double down shifting a few seconds later as you accel out of the turn.

 

Modified diagram: