I was just wondering if what I'm getting done is wise. My engine and everything else is stock. How will installing a six puck clutch benefit me. Will I destroy anything??

Also, my reverse light is inoperative. I was wondering if I could be provided with a schematic or something to follow (I believe it has something to do with a sensor or something. There are wires hanging down from the trans).

 

whats the name brand of the clutch? i just installed a 6 puck F1 Stage 3 Racing Clutch on my MX3 and its pretty tight and grabs quick. as far as installing it on a stock engine - not sure what you're afraid of tearing up - i have a 200HP KLZE in my MX3 - which is still stock, but way more powerful than the 130HP K8 that was in the MX3.

as for the wires - there is a sensor in the transmission that they should hookup to, shouldnt really need a schematic to figure out where they go - but if you really need one there are a few online. i'll look for them and post them online when i find them.

 

i have a sick puck in my car and its stock except for the automatic to manual swap and the turbo II driveline.

its not a clutch to drive around everyday though. first gear is really grabby and it takes alot just to get it right.
usually i have to rev up and let go of the clutch while im in first.

but other than first gear its a good clutch.

 

a 6 Puck aint gonna last you a year if you driving like a retard.

But since your car is stock anyways shouldn't be too bad unless your shifting like a F&F backup driver.

 

Completely and utterly useless to run a puck clutch on a car that is making less that 400 RWHP and even then there are MUCH better options than a puck clutch like the Exedy Twin Disc that I am wet to try out. Puck discs are HORRIBLE to drive on the streets and there is ZERO reason for you to have one except for being able to say that you do. Stick with a dics and a decent PP. If ANYTHING run a lightweight flywheel.

 

as for the reverse lights...look in the free online FSM you can find the link in the FAQ section under manuals and links


and for the clutch...it wont destroy anything

 

+1

no point having a high performance clutch with a stock car...

 

^While for most people that is true, puck clutchs do have a few advantages.
For instance, copper pucks last much longer if the car is ever taken to the 1/4 mile.
Organic clutches dont like lots of launches and wallets dont like carbon twin disks.
Puck clutches can also be lighter, but could be negligible enough to not notice.
As far as drivability goes, it just depends on your definition of the word.

All in all, most people dont really NEED a puck clutch, but if you fear smoking an organic clutch or dont mind looking like a tool at stoplights, its not a terrible idea.

 

He is not one of these people though.
It's a stock N/A. It's not making enough power to fry an organic clutch. Come on, unless he is an absolutely horrible clutch operator the organic disc will be fine.
You can launch an organic clutch all day with <100ftlbs of torque to the rear wheels and carbon discs are RACE ONLY. They are NOT intended for the street because much like race brakes and race tires they need to be an an operating temp to hold. This is not a racecar this is a stock N/A for crying out loud.
You will not notice the difference between the two.
You cannot compare the engagement characteristics of a puck clutch to a disc. They are COMPLETELY different. Have you driven a puck clutch in city traffic with a shitton of hills around? Serious question becuase I HIGHLY doubt it if you think the damn thing is streetable. Either that or when you drive your DD you're reving the damn thing to 2-3 grand and then feathering the clutch which is a great way to burn it up. When I start from a stop in my Jeep the RPM's don't go much above idle until the clutch it engaged. That's the "proper" way to engage a clutch. You CANNOT do anything near that with a puck clutch so don't even try to argue that point. Seriously don't

Just stop it seriously. You're posting alot of garbage information that has absolutely no bearing on the discussion of A BONE STOCK N/A CAR!!!!!! If the OP had a 400+RWHP than we would be debating it & I would still be saying find a disc or a twin disc.

 

Because it is a bone stock car now doesnt mean it will be in a year or two.
Does he need it now? NO
Would it destroy anything on his car like he asked? NO

He hasnt really stated what his goals or plans for the car were, so we are all speculating.
BUT, you are right that, right now, it would be overkill to use a puck clutch.

 

Actually, in all honesty, driving a puck clutch on the street will eat your flywheel like a choclate chip cookie.

I blew through a stock flywheel in 15K kms of puck clutch street driving. The flywheel was garbage afterwards, worn too deep.

EDIT: IF you're only racing the car, its actually easier on the flywheel since you never even try to slip it. But slipping a puck clutch (which can and will be done on the street.........but you can only slip it so much or it'll stall) will literally destroy the flywheel. Perhaps not as fast as mine since I was also using a heavy duty pressure plate. But I learned my lesson.

 

Since there is a lot of talking out of the *** here let me ask this question : is the clutch sprung hub or not? I had a 6puck unsprung hub in my t2. It was a monster of a clutch. The downside was that I had to constantly slip it on the street. One day it binded itself into the flywheel. Took out the disk and the flywheel. Would it have happened if it was a sprung hub? I dunno.I'd like to think not considerind how long the unsprung lasted on a daily driver (lil over a year). But I do know that the unsprung 6 is no good for a street car in my experience as its just too damn touchy. Great for drag or drift though.

 

take it from someone who daily drove his 8 GTU for a year with a completely unnecessary puck clutch. It just makes the driving experience... exhausting. At first it's kind of cool because you think your clutch is badass. And then it just gets annoying. The worst is backing out of driveways, uphill. And puck clutches don't last as long as street clutches. And they beat the **** out of your drivetrain, especially an N/A, at least if you are launching it.

On any car, don't ever get more clutch than you need.

 

Lemme Highlight -


Jeez guy what the hell? He has a bone stock car now, if he does end up making well over 400whp do you honestly think he is going to keep the same stock N/A trans and rear end? Probably not making this n/a puck clutch useless. Not to mention that from what I've heard the N/A driveling doesn't like to be smacked around, hell no drivetrain does and that is exactely what a puck clutch will do. This is such a ridiculous arguement. How many people need to disagree with you and give very VERY valid reason why NOT to get a ******* puck for a stock car. Yet you keep argueing to preserve your ego. I don't get it.

 

is this a sprung or unsprung clutch

 

Mine was sprung.

 

well - it sounds like i got the right clutch for me - considering how badly i beat the crap out of my clutch on a daily basis.

 

Oh really, what clutch did you get and more important, what mods do you have?

 

I can.

 

I have a 6-puck clutch in my car and I kinda regret putting it in. I have a near stock TII and the 6-puck clutch makes it needlessly difficult to drive. Can I take off from a stop without reving the hell out of the engine... yes, but it took a lot of practise to do. If you need something that can hold more torque, upgrade the pressure plate first, and then the disc.

Heavey pressure plate and street disc = easy to drive and a good leg workout

Light pressure plate and aggressive disc = pain in the *** to drive and you may end up looking like a fool.

 

I got a 6 puck F1 Stage 3 Racing Clutch - i swapped my K8 V6 with a JDM KLZE 2.5 V6 - which will put out 250hp before i turbo it. i've had no problems using it - like having to rev high to engage the clutch or anything like that. Feels like a normal clutch to me - then again i dont work OEM clutches like normal either. i have a pretty heavy foot and tear up OEM clutches like cookie monster

 

I learned in a 6 Puck when I was 17... and I didn't even KNOW. The whole car was a mystery to me. You should have seen me when I rebuilt the engine. (0o0)!
My flywheel is still fine too.

 

First of all your tearing up clutches impresses no-one. 2nd, don't compare your experiences with a piston motor to that of an n/a rotary. You could through an unsprung 6-puck behind the flywheel on my truck and probably not notice it because the damn thing makes more torque @ idle than a rotary makes at full tilt and maybe even more than the 2.5. VERY different motors, very different flywheels, very different torque and your post really should be ignored.

 

its not as bad as people say it is
i had a 6 puck sprung it was perfectly fine

 

6 puck sprung isn't as bad, when paired with the right material, but the high friction materials that refuse to be slipped will make any clutch an on-off switch.