2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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im building a touge style rex...

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Old 05-19-11, 09:12 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
I guess most people don't realize that the main point of a racing body kit is to widen the wheel wells for larger wheels/tires.
You don't need a body kit to do that. Roll the rear quarter out or cut/weld them to your desire. Or get a replacement widebody fiberglass quarter.

But if togue is what he wants, then he should be rocking tires with less width for drift. And larger rims = heavy. I would honestly keep the stock 17" rims and put decent tires on them.
Old 05-19-11, 09:40 AM
  #27  
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Honestly i agree with mostly everyone.

Touge is all about how a car "feels" you need to spend some quality money on suspension. updating the bushings to reduce slop,
if possible replace the DTSS bushings with somthing that will allow them to retain their function. Great Brakes, i.e brake pads, rotors and brake fluid.
Sticky Tires. (i run Toyo's when i'm not broke )

My FC does the touge down here on mt Lemmon in Tucson. and i've got no extra downforce. and i don't feel like the FC needs it. i've got full K'Sport Coilovers and i believe its the best investment i've made so far.
Old 05-19-11, 08:33 PM
  #28  
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Touge does not mean drifting...it's more of a mountain pass racing thing doesn't have to be drifting. It's just on mountains sometimes it's best to slide depending on the corner. But why would you want less traction on a mountain at high speeds? That's just dangerous
Old 05-22-11, 08:08 PM
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i priced out my supension upgrade and all but its gonna take some time to get the money so im rollin stock for right now
Old 05-23-11, 01:37 PM
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Just curious, what year and model fc do u have? What mods if any have already been done? Still though, suspension is king. Also recommend some poly/solid motor and trans mounts. Huge benfit in power to the wheels. Also invest in a grippier clutch
Old 05-23-11, 11:38 PM
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its a 91 fc 5 speed turbo yadda yadda the only thing thats done to it that i know of is a racing beat exhaust and a front mount intercooler well along with electric fans and maybe an hks blowoff valve i dont know if my mechanic is puttin it on or not
Old 05-24-11, 12:07 AM
  #32  
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Tuscanidream is very wrong ive hit well over 100mph on a canyon road wings and wide tires are a must
Old 05-24-11, 04:26 PM
  #33  
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why do you wanna touge? make a wangan car instead then you can go nuts with a bodykits, bigger wheels, and power
Old 05-25-11, 08:10 AM
  #34  
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You're paying a mechanic to mod your car?
Old 05-25-11, 08:55 AM
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Straight roads are boring. Anyone can drive straight fast,It requires skill to corner fast
Old 06-04-11, 02:20 PM
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ive got a mechanic doing the engine swap cause i dont have the time or know how to do it myself the rotary is a new beast for me, but all mods after this one im doing myself
Old 06-04-11, 03:00 PM
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Wangan, touge. I'm 29, but apparently, I'm way behind the times. Why can't we just call a car built for touge a car built for the twisties, or canyon carving, or backroads?
Old 06-04-11, 07:54 PM
  #38  
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cuz it's not jdm.... apparently
Old 06-04-11, 08:53 PM
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Haha well I live in Japan so jdm is just the norm here
Old 06-05-11, 02:59 PM
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Op your on the wrong forum dude, everyone here are pro racecar drivers. =)

See the link in my signature and take notes from what people are doing in japan, some of the older cars are a bit extreme and tacky but none the less there are some good ones.
Old 06-05-11, 05:06 PM
  #41  
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La Li Lu Le Lo

Originally Posted by asianbob
Suspension first! Then wheels and tires. Body work would be the last thing to do imo
Correct. Especially if that car will actually be driven near the performance capabilities of those tires and suspension..... And if you exceed those capabilities you might be sorry you ever spent money on that bodywork.

Originally Posted by 91fc3sworkinprogress
a little bit rally but more touge
Rallies are brutal on all components. Buy a spare body kit or two if you go that route.....

Originally Posted by Hypertek
See the link in my signature and take notes from what people are doing in japan.
One thing in common among most of those cars is some type of body modification. I guess that's the JDM way to go..... On the other hand, there are a lot of trailer queens in those pics, so it might not be a good cross section of the performance / daily driver crowd.

BTW, your user subtitle is hilarious. No native Japanese could possibly pronounce that unknown letter..... ROR. I mean LOL.
Old 06-05-11, 05:22 PM
  #42  
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OP: If it's a true '91 Turbo there are less than 100 of those left in the US. Be careful on those mountains
Old 06-06-11, 12:01 AM
  #43  
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*ahem*
Old 06-06-11, 02:54 PM
  #44  
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******* spolier
Old 06-12-11, 05:54 PM
  #45  
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rxse7en its not a true s5 turbo im doing the turbo 2 swap on it
Old 06-15-11, 02:12 AM
  #46  
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Suprised nobody has mention weight yet, the lighter the better with everything. Rule of (my) thumb is run the smallest radius widest diameter wheel that will clear the brakes. For our cars its 15's, but tires dont get to wide in the grippy stuff, so 16's are good. Make sure you put a baffle in the oil pan if the motor is still out. Also change all fluids often ( oil, tranny, diff, and even water if you arent putting antifreeze in it)
Old 06-16-11, 02:09 PM
  #47  
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* smaller tires= less rotational mass. Combine that with reduced weight to the fc, you'll be faster than normal going downhill.
Old 06-16-11, 02:16 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by CAPTN_SLAPPIN
* smaller tires= less rotational mass. Combine that with reduced weight to the fc, you'll be faster than normal going downhill.
Correction... Wheels
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