okay for those of you who have followed the story thus far..... injectors are cleaned and fixed, just got em back, everything else has been done. engine has like 100psi of compression on both rotors, idle is still nasty, car still floods when hot, and its getting worse. I finally ditched my solid core plug wires on a whim, and checked my coils. the car ran better with the fresh (cheap) plug wires, but still not perfect, then 30 minutes later it began to idle rough and loose torque again. I still can't fix my high rpm hick-ups and the car should be much faster than it is.....this is not just me, really it really should. gas milleage is terrible (like maybe 12mpg), and when I checked my coils, as par the haynes manual, lead checked out fine, both trailing had like 1.1ohm, which is failing. now for the wierd part, the leading coil fires an autozone inductive timming light intermitantly on L2 and most of the time, not at all on L1. T1 does not EVER blink, not when reving or idling, T2 seems to be more consistant. when the light blinks off, the car misses. Can I just disconnect one of the trailing coils and plug up an accel 42,000 volt coil I got? I really don't know anything about the ignition system on this car. I'm really fed up. I kinda really want an Old's Bro-ham now. I hope I get hit by a bus, I am sick of working on this car. I have not even been able to make a full pull to redline since putting the fresh motor together cause it bucks so hard above 4,000. the lower the gear and the less load on the engine, the higher I can rev and the more gas I can give it. as always thanks so much, and I really do want a Brougham. With really cold A/C, and cushy steering that whines alot. Oh and beauty rings, lots of em damn it!!! This car has made me insane. Rotaries are supposed to be smooth right? like budda...???
james

 

First off, you haven't been doing any of that funky grounding add-ons, have you?

1.1 ohms apiece should be good for the trailing coils...

You've checked your 12v input to your coils on the black/yellow wires at the connector, right?

Just for $hits and grins, remove the capacitor from ground for now just for troubleshooting, to see if anything changes...It's bolted to ground under the trailing coil pack, can't miss it, looks like the one bolted to the slave cylinder. Unbolt it and keep it away from ground for a bit...

Check the white/black wire terminals at the leading coil itself (still connected), with the car running at idle. Check each to ground...Should have a steady 12v on the white terminal, and about 12v on the black, that decreases as the RPM's go up...

If everything is good so far, you need to get to the ECU now to check all of your CAS input and timing signals...Check out the above first, though, and get back to us if you need further help...

 

okay I am gonna ditch the funky grounding that I did and check that stuff either tomarow or tuesday and I'll keep yall informed. Thanks so much. You don't know what this means. I know this car can be fun some day!

 

its fixed. it was a faulty trailing coil/ignitor assem. mr. bob says "its pretty fast now" I can't seem to feel it. got more porting on the elbo and the dynamic chamber to do. idle could be smoother also. perhaps I'll race a GSR on the way to work tomarrow.