i have always thought that there were throttle plates that dont open till the car is warmed up to keep you from thrashing it till its warmed up.

But i have been in a few others cars.... and they dont seem to act the same way.?..? weird....

usmcjay fixed his spool problem by wireing his plates open... im thinking about doing this also to see if its my slow spool problem.

but again my question is.... are the plates supposed to stay closed till the car is warmed up?.... and is it ok to just wire them open?

 

I don't know about TII's but my N/A GXL don't do that. Heh Heh, Ring Ring Ring Ring Ring Ring Bannana Phone...

 

No, the secondary plates should not stay closed at WOT even if cold

 

well then..... can i just wire them open?

I had kinda wanted to do the tb mod anyway... but for a test/temp fix i can just wire it open right?

 

yea my car is slow as **** when its cold.... i can feel the plates open.... or i guess thats what it is...when the car gets to 1/4 gauge. Before that it is sllllow.

I have driven it for a year like that and never knew other wise... i figured it was there to keep people from being hard on it when its cold.

 

sure, just unhook the front vac controller... and the throttle body mod is pretty much a waste of time unless you have other major mods on a N/A

You know I would be looking at your other set stuck open in the back. There should not be as noticeable change when the front ones come online

 

mazda put those plates in so you cant beat on the car before its warmed up....

 

i have a tii.... 87 tii.....

whats the deal now? Your saying i have sole plates stuck open already?... im so lost.... Does this advice of what i need to do still stand now that you know i have a tii and not a n/a?

i have been searching for the past 15 min or so... im looking for the pic with the breakdown of the TB with the plates and everything so ill know what im looking for.

 

Ah, yes The throttle body mod is a good choice for a Turbo, and yes, the throttle plates will not let you get on boost when cold

 

Another member was getting lots of boost lag with his new hybrid turbo... I am also getting the same lag with my hybrid turbo...

He checked his plates and they were not opening all the way. He wired them open and it fixed the problem.

So i guess i still plan to wire them open as a test... and i might just leave it that way till i can mod the TB.

 

Why wire them open? Just remove those bitches all together.

 

Yeah, I agree.

On a turbo, if you don't have the time or inclination to block it all off, just unscrew the plates and remove the plates.

Then later on go in and do the mod right with removing the shaft, and filling the holes left.

 

I have some down time planned soon for a few projects... until them im not going to pull my TB... If i break something i wont have a ride to work.

man i cant figure out what the parts i need to wire open look like... i have been searching for pics... write ups... what ever. I guess im just going to have to go pull my TMIC and look.... i wanted to have an idea before i got in there.

 

cuz people dont waste time wiring them open, when they can just remove them and even "port" the TB if they want to. its not that hard and im sure u wont break anything, there is some writeup on how to do the TB mod though, somewhere on fc3spro

 

You don't want to be ragging on the car when it's cold anyway, it should be a moot point that it doesn't haul *** the way you think it should when it's cold. We have ALUMINUM rotor housings packed between CAST IRON side housings, held there by a couple of loose-fitting dowel pins and 18 bolts that do nothing more than physically attach the rear side housing to the front side housing while "pinching" everything else together. For those of you who slept through physics, cast iron expands much more rapidly than aluminum when the same amount of heat energy is applied to both. (remember all the problems Cadillac had with their "new" aluminum heads?). The only RX engine I've seen kill itself in person was the result of the operator not allowing the temp to stabilize throughout the engine, in other words, he cranked it up, and proceded to show the world how fast his car was within seconds of it starting (blew a water seal). So, give your hormones and your engine a little time to settle down into a groove, then release them both

 

That's not correct. With a completely unmolested TB (i.e. no TB mod), the #2 secondary throttle plates (the upstream ones) are closed by vacuum from the thermovalve acting on the damper. When the coolant reaches ~140degF the thermovalve opens, the vacuum is released, and the #2 secondary throttles open. This system is to stop idiots romping on a cold engine. and is on all FC's (except JDM).

 

HMMM, I could have swore that it opened slightly when cold at WOT, but it has been so long since I have seen one with working 2ndary throttle plates I could be wrong.