FCGTX

Alright so lately my car has been running like a champ and idling perfectly, but after some spirited driving last night, things haven't been quite the same (and this car is no stranger to spirited driving either). It starts up perfectly every time, but after the initial rev up to 2K when the car is first started, it slowly burbles down and stalls out, which leads me to believe its a vaccum leak. I think I might have found the culprit, but I'm not sure. Forgive me for being a moron, but what exactly are these connectors? I'm guessing they have to do with the injectors? (the blue, yellow, white and orange ones in the pic) Anyways, the nipple on the white connector broke off inside of the vaccum line, that was the only 'loose' vaccum line I could find.



Would this be the cause of my problem??

Also, what is this green plug for? The previous owner removed all the unnecessary emissions stuff, and power steering, so there are a few connectors just 'hanging around' in the engine bay.


Thanks for any and all help guys.

Cam

Noel Caraballo

iTrader: (2)

ive had that same hose break on me trying to put those stupid silicone colored hoses ran it broken like that didnt cause me any running problems got to be something else, you need that plug though thats for your bac valve car wont run right without it

FCGTX

Which plug, the green one?

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it goes to the bac valve, the connector is right beside the small coolant line running to the front iron. Get you another solinoid and plug in the BAC and see if that fixes your problem.

Noel Caraballo

iTrader: (2)

yea the green one it goes on that round solinoid on the side of the intake thats in your hand on last pic

FCGTX

Yup, plugged it back in, the problem still persists...hmm...

HAILERS

You need to determine if the bac is VIBRATING or not. Just turn the key to ON and go next to it and listen for a buzzing. NO buzz?????

Just unbolt the bac's two attach nuts and move the bac away from the intake and turn the key to ON. Look a touch the diapharm inside the large hole. It should buzzz. The bac has a duty cycle of approx 122hz so it will/should buzz. Still no buzzz. Tough. It's most likely a blown resistor inside the ECU. IT can be replaced. I've done that before. If you have no confidence in you ability to remove and replace a resistor, don't try.

The following site tells how to check the bac out. The article is aimed at turbo owners but a bac is a bac is a bac. The how to is down inside the article some ways.

Ravingecu21

what site?

FCGTX

What is this magical site that you speak of good sir?

And yea, there's no buzzing coming from the BAC at all.
Should I first try replacing the BAC valve, and if that doesn't work, should I put the ECU from my parts car in? What would be the best plan of attack?

dufourmike

iTrader: (1)

I noticed that ll your hoses are just pushed one, I found if you add worm clampes to the bigger ones that they can fit, it gives you that extra sence of security. I ve had to mess around with them to ge ta good seal, and that takes the work out of it.

FCGTX

Welp, I replaced the BAC with a working one from my parts car, and that broken piece that the white connector attaches to as well, with high hopes, but it was fail. So what else could be causing my problem???

FCGTX

I removed my aftermarket grounding kit thinking it could be a bad ground, but still nothing. I also removed my leading plugs and both rotors are pushing lots of air so I know my engine isn't fubar'd. What could it be?? I can only rev the car up to 2K RPM (just barely gets there) and as soon as I attempt to depress the accelerator it begins to die. I am so stumped...