Idling/compression(?) problem
#1
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Idling/compression(?) problem
I just bought a 1987 RX-7 N/A and had it checked out at a local car repair shop. When I got it back it drove home fine, but when I attempted to drive it again it would get almost no compression and will not idle below 1,100 RPM. I replaced the air flow meter because it had been damaged by mishandling (leads were broken) and the problem I described still plagues the car. Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be or could shoot some troubleshooting questions at me to help me deduce it? The exhaust does not smell rich or oily which makes me think the seals are still intact, but since I am new to rotaries I could be wrong. Any help on this subject would be appreciated.
#2
In the past few days, I've read about 70 posts about the ATF tricks. Problems you are having should be fixed by ATF trick. It helps according to the posts I saw. 70 of them!
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I am going to assume ignorance here and ask what an ATF trick is. I have heard of using ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) to get a flooded RX-7 started. I am not sure if this is what you mean or not. Please advise further or provide more information.
#4
Hey, give us some more info. What are the compression numbers you are getting? Do you have to push start it? Don't start dumping stuff into your engine until you have an idea of what is wrong.
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Well, I do not have to push-start it. I can just turn the key and start it although it does require a bit of a tap on the gas pedal for the motor to "catch." After that it requires a constant pressure on gas pedal to keep it above 1,100 RPM. If it flows below that mark it starts to stutter and then completely die at around 950 RPM. As for compression numbers I do not have tester to actually test it. I am just assuming the compression is not good because when I did try to drive it after the problem arose it would hardly accelerate. The gas pedal to the floor bearly got me up to 40 MPH. And yes, I do know how to drive a manual. :-P
#6
Well the 1st thing you do is our ghetto compression test. Pull the leading plug, one rotor at a time and crank the car with the EGI fuse removed. If you hear 3 distinct click/swoosh in each rotor, chances are your compression is OK. I am inclined to think you still have some problem with your afm or fuel supply since you did mention that. You can also buy a $20 compression tester and actually check for even pulses and max compression. If compression is ok and after you checked timing, start messing with the EGI system. good luck.
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Originally posted by AcidShock
Well, I do not have to push-start it. I can just turn the key and start it although it does require a bit of a tap on the gas pedal for the motor to "catch." After that it requires a constant pressure on gas pedal to keep it above 1,100 RPM. If it flows below that mark it starts to stutter and then completely die at around 950 RPM. As for compression numbers I do not have tester to actually test it. I am just assuming the compression is not good because when I did try to drive it after the problem arose it would hardly accelerate. The gas pedal to the floor bearly got me up to 40 MPH. And yes, I do know how to drive a manual. :-P
Well, I do not have to push-start it. I can just turn the key and start it although it does require a bit of a tap on the gas pedal for the motor to "catch." After that it requires a constant pressure on gas pedal to keep it above 1,100 RPM. If it flows below that mark it starts to stutter and then completely die at around 950 RPM. As for compression numbers I do not have tester to actually test it. I am just assuming the compression is not good because when I did try to drive it after the problem arose it would hardly accelerate. The gas pedal to the floor bearly got me up to 40 MPH. And yes, I do know how to drive a manual. :-P
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