st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

1989 gtu atkins reman /w 1200, aftermarket header (Don't know what brand) all emissions removed "bare block mod" lol. I bought this back yesterday and drove it home. There was no thermostat so the temp stayed real low on the highway, and thats what I blamed the high idle on. I put in a new stant tstat today and after the engine got warm it still idled high even with the idle adjust screw all the way in. I adjust the tps to 1k ohms at closed throttle and 4.8k ohms at WOT and now it just pulses from 1300 to 1600 even after it's fully warm. I checked the play on the tps and it seemed to increase smoothly. I coated the engine bay in starter fluid (not literaly) and couldn't find a single vacuum leak. Is there anything else I should check before I go out and buy another tps?

If it matters I don't have the stock airbox either, the guy sold it off before he sold me the car so now I have a cheapo cone filter from autozone.

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

...sounds like your TPS is fine. Don't go off half cocked and buy another one. Check the throttle cable. If it's too tight you will never get the idle down.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

BAC valve? Throttle Cable? Stuck AWS?

Skeletonsbob

Sorry to hijack, but what does the bare block consist of? what is removed?

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Non - existent
I had the same thought, but it's got just a tiny bit of free play. Not too tight.
Non - existent, to the best of my knowledge.
Basically anything that isn't essential to the engine operating is removed.
He left the omp system intact though.

veedubbed

Throttle stop holding the butterflies open too far?

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

That sounds like it might be worth a shot.... wtf is the throttle stop? A link to a picture, a picture drawn in paint, anything. lemme know what this thing is and how I can manipulate it for my own personal gain.

03/08/87

you'll need a 10mm wrench and a small flathead.

jamespond24

iTrader: (13)

Where in Ks. are you?

veedubbed

It's an 8mm.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

within 10 minutes of 75th and quivira in shawnee, ks

pyroal188

i have the same problem. im going to look at my car when it gets warmer out. but the link below is a post with a guy that fixed it. it was from the cold start system mainly.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...dle+cold+start

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Could be that the BAC valve was removed, but the thermowax and it's complete assembly is still intact and causing problems... If your 'fast idle-cam' (which is related to the thermowax setup) is stuck, it will interfere with your throttle-plates closing completely. Either that, or your throttle-cable is too tight. Don't worry--should be an easy problem to fix. Something is just getting in the way.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

if the thermowax/fast idle cam is removed, you likely have a messed up throttle stop screw.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

The fast idle cam and thermowax are still in place, but the genius disconnected the coolant lines that run to the tb and plugged them up. So does that mean that my thermowax stays in cold mode? I've had an rx7 before that surged only when it was cold, and then it was perfectly fine once it warmed up.

RyosukeD

iTrader: (2)

Yes, thermowax is staying in cold mode. Without hot coolant going through it, it's not doing it's job.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Ok cool, the should the coolant line diagram be in the FSM. I'm gonna hook that sucker back up. Ummm, is the thermowax dependant on any other system to function correctly?

HAILERS

Look at page F1-35 of the series five Factory Service Manual. Just download the Fuel and Emissions section. It shows the hose routing and explains the water thermowax.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Thanks hailers. I have the day off tomorrow and I'll try and patch this up. I'll post results for the sake of searchers.