okay my turbo inlet duct was cracked so i did a quick patch-up job, and replaced the rusted hose clamp, and the idle is still bouncing!! It will run now if i dont press the gas, but it still dies when i come to stops. would another TPS adjustment fix it?

Also how do you get to the turbo to remove it? I want to check play and whatnot, but everythings in the way on top and the damn lower control arm is in the way up top...is there an easy way to get to it?

 

check your tps and try cleaning the BAC. Both are high probability for the bouncing idle problem

 

i adjusted the tps and now it dies again. as soon as i start it up its fine (even on hot starts) for maybe 30 seconds, then it drops real low, then shoots to like 1000, then dies. this is starting to **** me off.

 

I would start suspecting a vacuum leak somewhere. Inspect your engine bay for loose or missing vac lines.

 

all of the visible vac lines are fine. **** it, I'm getting a new motor this summer anyway and before i drop that in i'm removing the vac rack. I guess ill just live with the heel-toe idle till then.

 

hey im having idle problems too. im down in the southern part of IN around evansville/ newburgh. maybe we could get together and work em out?

 

were is your tps pm me if you can tell me

 

With a fully warmed up engine, install the initial set coupler. If the engine dies when you do that, then you have not set your idle speed right. Follow the instructions in the FSM for setting the idle.

 

I had the same problem on my TII, spent alot of money sending it to different shops to have it fixed with no results. Turned out to be a vacume leak. Make sure you check and double check ALL your hose connections and clamps. Start at the air filter and just work your way back.

 

What did your "patch up" job consist of? Even a tiny air leak will cause what you describe. If the vacuum leak isn't at the TID, then it's somewhere. If you have a keen ear they can usually be heard. If not, then a water gun spraying around the top of the engine generally works.

 

I used to have the same problem...coming to stops she'd idle down, then get lower and lower, till she stalled. Turned out I had a vacuum leak from the intake to the BAC... I think it's the BAC, the large vac hose off the top of the motor, by the TB, going to the intake tube.

I also had a bouncing idle for a while, and my pressure sensor vac hose was disconnected...doh! It still comes off every now and again.

James

 

That's probably where your problem is. Do it right the first time.

 

'Kay if it were a vac leak would it die all the time? because now its fine until it warms up... I tried the initial set coupler thing and adjusted the idle via the BAC with no effect. Then i started it the next morning and the ****** was idling at 3k. It only did it until i pulled out of the garage, then it smoothed out and then bounced after it warmed up.

And Jager, I'm going to do it right, but rather than replace the TID I'm going to wait until I can install my CAI, which means waiting until I have my shroud out of the way, which means doing my Efans which im getting tomorrow.

 

Not necessarily, when you first start the car it goes to cold start, which brings the ideal above the speed where the surge occurs. After that the car comes back down to a normal ideal where the surge is present. I had the exact same issue. Just DOUBLE check all vacuum including the AFM and filter.

 

I had that caused by a cracked AWS, did you check there?

Not really. You can either take off the upper and lower manifold, and abs pump if you have one, or take off the precat and wiggle it out from underneath.