Force Fed

Finally got my car back together again yesterday, I just need to put some atf in the chambers and spin it over some, and I'll be rerady to put all the plugs back in and see if it fires.

Here's the thing: when I had the UIM/TB assy off, I found that the previous owners had been messing w/ the fast idle screw and had it jacked way up, trying to get it to run. So, I back it way off, down to where it's just barely cracking the throttle. However this is obviously throwing all my previous TPS adjustments out the window.

My question I guess is this: do any of you have a good baseline for the idle screw settings? Like, so many turns after bottoming it out? Or will it start up fine w/o the fast idle set, and I just need to set the TPS w/ a ohmmeter and adjust the fast idle running? I don't think the normal idle speed screw has been messed with, doesn't look like it.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Oh, you are talking about the thing that adjusts the opening of the throttle plates, not the idel adjust screw on top of the TB, right? IF so, then I'm not sure. I won't touch that since I've heard it can be a pain to reset.

Force Fed

Yeah, I think it opens the secondary plates? The 2 bottom plates in the TB. It's the screw that sits on top of the thermowax. It was screwed like all the way in, they had the spring bottomed out. I screwed it back out to where it looked like it used to be, but wanted to know if there was a proper method of resetting it.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Ok, so is this the screw on the thing that hits the thermowax on the back of the TB? If so, then all that does is adjust how high the idle goes up when the thermowax is activated (when engine is cold). You just kinda adjust it until you like where the idle is at. It only matters when its cold, anyway.

Porchapa

Just be careful, once you start fiddling with the idle screws they tend to rebel...

Dcrasta

There are index marks on the UIM. If u take it off (TB/UIM and look on the side you will see an Index mark for the Throttle Stop screw (the one with the lock nut). The Thermowax screw also has an index, on the side of the 'mechanism' there are two dash marks '-' . U want the metal pin that sticks out to be between the dash marks.

Dont have pictures but if u take the UIM off and look over the pivots u will see what Im talking about.

so-mars

grr i cant follow the terminology in this thread but im having a problem in the same area... whatever is hooked to the accelerator pedal at that same junction near the throttle plates.

i aligned the intake plates how the haynes manual or something said and cleaned them up real nice for the air intake so they're fine... but whatever leads to the accelerator pedal slightly beside that, where i think it controls fuel/air mixture... mine was like all whacked out and bent or something apparently from old age because the springs and moving parts in that general area look horribly shot in terms of tension/alignment. but uhm i have no clue how to adjust that w/o requiring specialty 'testers' or whatever... is it possible to avoid buying any of the proprietary testing gear (like coil w/ igniter tester etc) and still tune pretty much all the important stuff?

my cars not running atm but i'll put pics up explaining more what i'm talking about probably later this week.

i tuned my normal idle by ear actually heh. you can pretty much tell where the sweet spot is like that. now as for if that freakin cheap screw will stay exactly how its set.... i tend to doubt lol.

micah

Specialty tools? You mean like a digital multimeter? It doesn't get much more specialized than that.

so-mars

well my mixture is way to rich atm because of what i was talking about and i have no clue how to measure the fuel/air mix for starters

and the repair manual has a bunch of multimeter attachments

err heh yeh i was wondering about wheel alignment and camber etc too hehe

need an overhead lift while im at it

so-mars

this is what i'm talking about... that whole area is allll messed up and i have no clue how to get it tuned properly

(i saw the part about springs w/ the other guy i wasnt sure if this is the same area/thing coz i dont know of any other springs)

micah

Here's what mine looked like before I pulled my engine:


Does that help? You must have an automatic....

so-mars

yeh automatic... it's too dark out right now i'll check it out tomorrow though and get a better pic thnx!

micah

I can get more pics of the TB... but it ran the way it looks.... Check the FSM on getting it idling again..

For the TPS: http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=58&co=1&vi=1

Should be very straight forward. Remember, if you change idle speed/fuel mixture (S4), you'll have to re-adjust the TPS. TPS should be what you do last.. And you might have to do them a few times to get it just right.

Force Fed

Damn, so I have to pull the UIM again and fight the f'n little coolant line underneath grrr lol oh well. BTW mine is an '87 TII 5spd, if it makes any difference.

I'll pull it again I guess and check for those marks. I finally got it running again today, at first it was exactly the same as before, then I moved adjust the tps a bit while it was running and it it smoothed waaaay out, idles pretty steady now.

However, it's still not quite right. I replaced the AFM and the TPS w/ good used units while it was apart, so I'm pretty sure they're fine. The idle is smoother now, after adjusting the TPS, but it sits at 1800 rpm, fluctuates maybe 100 rpm and smells rich still, has a bit of a skip. I screwed the BAC screw in until it started to blubber out, then back out about 3-4 turns, till it didn't change the idle any more.

So, I'll pull the UIM again and see about the marks. I think my t-wax might be bad, cause the idle and TPS setting never changes when the coolant temp comes up. Although, the temp gauge only goes 1/8-1/4 of the gauge, no matter how long I run it.

Force Fed

Okay, here's what I'm looking at.

Thermo wax/fast idle screw


Normal idle screw and ??


I don't see the marks Dcrasta is talking about, although I just did a quick look. Do these screws look way out to you guys?

so-mars

yeh i was starting to think we werent talking about the same thing... sorry for partially hijacking your thread

*** now it wont let me delete this message (it created a new page argh)

Force Fed

Lol no problem. Maybe between us we can figure it out.

I do see some marks on the fast idle bellcrank, like 2 lines on the end that the cam hits it. See photo below, arrow points to the area I'm talking about.

Force Fed

Okay, I found the FSM and those are the right marks. From what I can tell, the screw that sets on the t-wax adjusts how long it stays on fast idle. The set screw w/ the jam nut is normal idle, and the one below it is the fast idle speed adjustment.

Is there a way to check the thermowax? I don't think mine works.

Force Fed

Bump, I didn't see anything in the FSM about testing it.

micah

No bumping in technical section yo... mods get angry at that. Just a heads up. You should read the "HEY IDIOT READ THIS" post in the 2nd gen section.

Force Fed

Doh! Thanks man. Sorry Mods!

so-mars

yeh you might want to go ahead and actually restate what you are asking now coz i think i confused the thread lol i have found that asking questions tends to go better when grouping up a bit tho im so agitated w/ wanting to blow my car up right now i'll be lucky if i can get to doing a full diagram on the photo tomorrow and seeing if i can get my fuel mixture fixed properly... plus some slack on the accelerator or something cant remember, massively hungover 8)

Force Fed

Update, I tore the mani's off to do intake gaskets (trying to fix another problem ), got everything back together, seems to run pretty good, but can't get it to come down below a 2k idle. Sometimes it'll drop to 1800, but that's it. Is it A) t-wax gone bad, B) engine not getting warm enough (gauge never gets past 1/8-1/4 ), or C) normal idle screw not set right. I couldn't find the reference marks for the normal idle set screw.

How often do t-waxes go bad anyway? I assume it is possible for them to go bad?

so-mars

idle in gear or out of gear?

mines automatic but in park it idles at about 1400 and in drive i have it set to idle at about 750

when the warmup is going on its at about 3500

my engine runs midline when warmed up after 5-10 minutes of driving at all times... arm on the gauge is nearly perfectly horizontal

Force Fed

In neutral, mine's 5-spd. Temp gauge barely moves up off the bottom. I think I'm gonna get a pipe to replace the intercooler w/ while adjusting the idle screws while running. I found that idea in another thread here somewhere, should make it a lot easier to "screw" with