idle screw... which way is high or low?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 8,999
Likes: 1
From: South Bay, CA
oh. well, counter-clockwise, the RPM idle was higher....
but it still fluctuates.
doesn't really stay in one place.
it'd drop down...
then it's force itself back up again....
drop down....
then back up....
it does this jumping within a 1000 RPM range.
please don't tell me this is normal for the FC.
but it still fluctuates.
doesn't really stay in one place.
it'd drop down...
then it's force itself back up again....
drop down....
then back up....
it does this jumping within a 1000 RPM range.
please don't tell me this is normal for the FC.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 10
From: Temple, Texas (Central)
There isn't anything about that screw in the link posted. It is actually on this page: http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=61&co=1&vi=1
Also, the bouncing idle is probably from a vac leak.
Also, the bouncing idle is probably from a vac leak.
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you can find the idle speed adjustment from that first link. you just have to scroll down and go to the idle overview section,
^^^^ yes Sideways link will take you right there.
maybe you need to adjust the tps as well.
^^^^ yes Sideways link will take you right there.
maybe you need to adjust the tps as well.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 8,999
Likes: 1
From: South Bay, CA
i only did the A to B check. it was fine.
didn't know i had to do a E to D check.
probably try doing that tomorrow.
if it's a vacuum leak...
rotary power in gardena, CA is booked up for the rest of the year.
don't know where else to replace them.
gonna have to send the car to the former owner's shop...
didn't know i had to do a E to D check.
probably try doing that tomorrow.
if it's a vacuum leak...
rotary power in gardena, CA is booked up for the rest of the year.
don't know where else to replace them.
gonna have to send the car to the former owner's shop...
check the tps out tomorrow and you can always start up the 7 and shoot some carb cleaner around the intake and vaccum hoses to see if the idle changes. At least you can get a general idea of where the vaccum leak might be. Be safe. Good luck.
Originally Posted by finishline
oh. well, counter-clockwise, the RPM idle was higher....
but it still fluctuates.
doesn't really stay in one place.
it'd drop down...
then it's force itself back up again....
drop down....
then back up....
it does this jumping within a 1000 RPM range.
please don't tell me this is normal for the FC.
but it still fluctuates.
doesn't really stay in one place.
it'd drop down...
then it's force itself back up again....
drop down....
then back up....
it does this jumping within a 1000 RPM range.
please don't tell me this is normal for the FC.
you can't just turn the air adjust screw...you have to jump the intial set coupler first...then turn the variable resistor....here read this...
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=61&co=1&vi=1
oops sideways already posted this link...disregard post
With the idle screw, the further out it is, the more air it lets bypass the throttle plates, so the higher the idle will be. My guess is that means counter-clockwise raises idle. If you find out which direction raises and lowers idle, please update that idle speed page linked above!
my car has the same problem, the idle goes up and down about 500 RPMs or so, around 1200-1700 range.
I tested my TPS and got:
A-B Idle: 1.042 K ohms
A-B WOT: 4.430 K ohms
E-D Idle: 1.200 K ohms
E-D WOT: 4.500 K ohms
No matter what I did, I couldnt get E-D Idle to drop down to .6-.9k ohms.
I didnt try messing with the TB screw and change the AFR, will try that later on today.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=idle
-js
I tested my TPS and got:
A-B Idle: 1.042 K ohms
A-B WOT: 4.430 K ohms
E-D Idle: 1.200 K ohms
E-D WOT: 4.500 K ohms
No matter what I did, I couldnt get E-D Idle to drop down to .6-.9k ohms.
I didnt try messing with the TB screw and change the AFR, will try that later on today.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=idle
-js
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