2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

idle screw... which way is high or low?

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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:13 PM
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finishline's Avatar
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idle screw... which way is high or low?

which way screwing the idle screw raises the idle?

thanks. =]

trying to fix idle problem.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:16 PM
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use a voltmeter, i believe if you turn the screw counter-clockwise, the resistance goes up, which i belive will raise the idle speed.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:16 PM
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http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=58&co=1&vi=1
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:30 PM
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I think hes talking about the screw on top of the TB (or dynaimic chamber, cant remember of the top of my head). I don't know which way is which, though.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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oh. well, counter-clockwise, the RPM idle was higher....
but it still fluctuates.
doesn't really stay in one place.
it'd drop down...
then it's force itself back up again....
drop down....
then back up....

it does this jumping within a 1000 RPM range.
please don't tell me this is normal for the FC.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:36 PM
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there is good info from this link. you can also find info on how to adjust idle speed and to adjust the afr.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:43 PM
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There isn't anything about that screw in the link posted. It is actually on this page: http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=61&co=1&vi=1
Also, the bouncing idle is probably from a vac leak.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:46 PM
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you can find the idle speed adjustment from that first link. you just have to scroll down and go to the idle overview section,

^^^^ yes Sideways link will take you right there.

maybe you need to adjust the tps as well.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:52 PM
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Yeah, you might as well test the TPS while your at it. I stil bet you have a vac leak, though.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 11:00 PM
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i only did the A to B check. it was fine.
didn't know i had to do a E to D check.
probably try doing that tomorrow.

if it's a vacuum leak...
rotary power in gardena, CA is booked up for the rest of the year.
don't know where else to replace them.
gonna have to send the car to the former owner's shop...
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 11:08 PM
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check the tps out tomorrow and you can always start up the 7 and shoot some carb cleaner around the intake and vaccum hoses to see if the idle changes. At least you can get a general idea of where the vaccum leak might be. Be safe. Good luck.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by finishline
oh. well, counter-clockwise, the RPM idle was higher....
but it still fluctuates.
doesn't really stay in one place.
it'd drop down...
then it's force itself back up again....
drop down....
then back up....

it does this jumping within a 1000 RPM range.
please don't tell me this is normal for the FC.

you can't just turn the air adjust screw...you have to jump the intial set coupler first...then turn the variable resistor....here read this...

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=61&co=1&vi=1

oops sideways already posted this link...disregard post
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 12:04 AM
  #13  
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With the idle screw, the further out it is, the more air it lets bypass the throttle plates, so the higher the idle will be. My guess is that means counter-clockwise raises idle. If you find out which direction raises and lowers idle, please update that idle speed page linked above!
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 12:06 AM
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...and I see you already found out a long time ago. I'll update it myself!
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 12:42 AM
  #15  
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thanks dudes.
i just hope that problem is just minor,
and nothing too big.
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 02:45 PM
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my car has the same problem, the idle goes up and down about 500 RPMs or so, around 1200-1700 range.

I tested my TPS and got:

A-B Idle: 1.042 K ohms
A-B WOT: 4.430 K ohms
E-D Idle: 1.200 K ohms
E-D WOT: 4.500 K ohms

No matter what I did, I couldnt get E-D Idle to drop down to .6-.9k ohms.

I didnt try messing with the TB screw and change the AFR, will try that later on today.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=idle

-js
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