Idle problems.. jumps back and fourth from 1000-1500
04-21-04, 07:12 PM
#1
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Idle problems.. jumps back and fourth from 1000-1500
its a constant jump back and fourth sounds like woes kinda, the tach goes up and back when left at idle, car runs fine other than that? any ideas, TPS?
04-21-04, 07:32 PM
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at start up it rev's up to about 2 grand, and i can put it in first and not even touch the gas and the car will go, it seems to have started to idle high when this problem started, could you tell me where the Oem Thermostat is?
04-21-04, 07:47 PM
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nope it comes down thanks, but after warm up. If i get off the gas and and its in neutral, it just will idle at 1000 up to 1500, and then drop to 1000 and back to 1500.. ect. hopefully some one can give me some things to try i would like to find the problem out tonight.
thanks
thanks
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04-21-04, 07:57 PM
#8
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it's happened to me a couple of times at startup, but goes away when i gun the throttle a little. my conjecture: something's causing the idle to increase, then the ECU is dropping it again (it won't allow it to idle higher than 2 grand or so during warmup), and the process repeats itself...does it fix itself after it's warm?
04-21-04, 08:05 PM
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i've been having the same problem recently. it would start up to 3000, like normal, drop to 2000, and then rev from 1000 to 1500 constantly at idle, but no problems at all while at cruising speed. it turned out to be the temp sensor
04-21-04, 08:08 PM
#11
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Make sure you have the right thermostat for your car, you can order the proper one at www.mazdatrix.com . After I replaced mine, tthe idle problem I had, which was the hunting/jumping, same thing as yours went away. Also, if you still have the sub zero start system, check the resovior for it, it's in the back left side of the engine bay. it takes a 90/10 mix of antifreeze.
04-21-04, 08:09 PM
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04-21-04, 08:19 PM
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I dont see how the thermostat could have anything to do with idle. vaccuum leaks and tps are the usual culprits for bad idle. Id start looking for bad vaccuum lines, or it could be at a gasket between the manifolds. Sideways7, porting will make your idle a little more lumpy, but it should be more of a brapbrapbrap, not a brappppppppp brapppppppppp brappppppppp...etc. I have the same problem listed in the thread right now. Mine idles at 1000, but revs to 1500 constantly. will rev up 2 or 3 times, then stumble a little. to put it literally.... vrrrrrrrr vrrrrrrrrr blehblehbleh verrrrrrr verrrrrrrrrrrr bllahbleahhblahhh.
-Ben
-Ben
04-21-04, 08:21 PM
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hmm i see the thermo wax thing...but that shouldnt cause a sporatic idle. if it was stuck open, it could cause the car to idle high all the time, if it was stuck closed, the car should idle normal....besides the rising temps that is.
04-21-04, 08:23 PM
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ohkay .. well boys i started it up sprayed no vac leaks.. the idle surge starts after about 3 minutes aprox. after start up.. soo i unpluged the TPS.. and well the idle even'd out, and the idle was much much better.. a touch ruff, but no surges! soo i think atleast i'm getting somewhere.
04-21-04, 08:31 PM
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yeh, think about it, CRXtoRX7- the t-stat's stuck open, meaning warm coolant gets to the water thermo sensor before it's supposed to, so it's sendind a "warm" signal to the ECU...meanwhile, the coolant at the thermo wax is still fairly cool, so it's trying to keep the idle in the "fast idle" warm up stage. so, the ECU thinks the engine's warm (because of the thermo sensor's input), and it can't deal with the fast idle caused by the thermo wax (it's confused)...purely conjecture, but makes sense to me...
04-21-04, 09:50 PM
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ohkay well i am running with the TPS unplugged... and i don't like it but it is better.. i'm goin to go get a "new Used" Tps tomorrow.. hopefully it will be running good again... i was getting poor gas mileage and i have had the injectors cleaned, 6 ports working great, and new fuel filter... could the tps be the culprut ?
04-22-04, 04:13 PM
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umm... sounds like you should all (with this problem, it's been here like 5 times in the past two days) go through the idle setting that's in the FSM. The FSM link is in the faq. It has you set the TPS, really easy as long as you have a DMM, and then set the idle mixture. I drove around with the exact same problem for a LONG time and then did this it almost completely fixed it. I reset the TPS a second time a few days later and it was completely fine steady idle at ~750 after the warm up.
04-24-04, 07:05 PM
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Ok, I got some more idle irregularities that fit in with this topic. My car periodically has a jumping idle about 2 minutes after starting the car. It seemed much worse when it was cold out, and has recently almost disappeared. The car idles at about 2800 when first started until you blip the throttle and then it drops down to 2k. When you put the shifter into any gear while the clutch pedal is depressed about 2 minutes after starting, the idle would jump from 1000-1500 in quick succession. As soon as you took it out of gear, it would return to a smooth 1 or 2k idle, depending on how wamred up it was. After the car has been running for 10 minutes or so, the problem completely disappears, but like I said, since it has gotten warmer out, the problem hasn't been near as bad. Which brings me to my next idle issues....
My car sits at 2k for an awfully long time. The temp gauge can be reading dead center and it still holds the 2k idle. Lastly, I can't run the AC unless I'm going at a constant speed with no stops. As soon I let off the gas with the car in neutral it stalls fast. It doesn't try to catch itself. It just drops to 0. Without the AC on, the idle dips below 750 and then bounces itself back up.
There is no apparent vaccuum leaks and the car idles a solid 750 all other times. I do know the water pump was changed a few months before I bought it, so maybe the thermostat was changed too. So my question is: does this sound like it is all related to a TPS adjustment or do I also need to investigate the thermostat, temp sensor, and BAC valve? My main concern is the stalling while running the AC. Fixing this will mean I can feel comfortable driving the car in the city in godawful hot Florida this summer or whether it will sit and be neglected until October. Any help would be much appreciated!!
My car sits at 2k for an awfully long time. The temp gauge can be reading dead center and it still holds the 2k idle. Lastly, I can't run the AC unless I'm going at a constant speed with no stops. As soon I let off the gas with the car in neutral it stalls fast. It doesn't try to catch itself. It just drops to 0. Without the AC on, the idle dips below 750 and then bounces itself back up.
There is no apparent vaccuum leaks and the car idles a solid 750 all other times. I do know the water pump was changed a few months before I bought it, so maybe the thermostat was changed too. So my question is: does this sound like it is all related to a TPS adjustment or do I also need to investigate the thermostat, temp sensor, and BAC valve? My main concern is the stalling while running the AC. Fixing this will mean I can feel comfortable driving the car in the city in godawful hot Florida this summer or whether it will sit and be neglected until October. Any help would be much appreciated!!